Peter Weiser Archives - Lewis & Clark Research Database

Wiser Cuts His Leg; Wheels Repeatedly Fail

Mon, 04 May 2026 16:46:18 +0000

last evening we geered up the 4 horses and Set out with 2 canoes
one large & one Small one the truck wheels which bore the large
canoe broke down often and troubled us much. Wiser cut his
leg with a knife So that he is unable to walk & [it] is a bad wound
Collins went on to willow Creek to kill Some fresh meat for us.
where he “began to scratch his head with his feet”; after vvhieh operation he
s;it down :it the foot of the tree and gave Ieeal an anxious afternoon.
1 The ferocity of the mosquitoes was almost as great as that of the grizzlies.
Lewis notes that his dog, Scannon, •even howls with the torture he experiences
from them.”
1806] SERGEANT ORDWAY’S JOURNAL 381
with much difficulty we got the 2 canoes & considerable of bag-
gage to willow Creek about Sunset and Camped. Collins had
killed three buffaloe. Some of the other hunters killed another
fat one this evening.

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Twenty Horses Loaded as Shoshone Women Carry Remainder

Mon, 04 May 2026 16:45:29 +0000

that the band of the Snake nation who came here yesterday are
going down on the Missourie after the buffaloe and offers Some of
their horses for Sale So we delay this morning in order to purchase
some from them, we got three or 4 more horses & hired two and
loaded all our horses 12 in nomber. then the Squaws took on
their horses the remainder of our baggage we had ab* 20 horses
loaded with baggage and Set out about 12 oClock on our journey to
cross the dividing mountains, we went about 3 miles up the
valley, one of the men P. Wiser was taken of a Sudden with the
collick and ditained us so that we got only about 5 miles this after-
noon and Camped at the creek on the edge of a large Smooth plain
we had a small shower of rain one of the men caught several
large Trout one of the hunters came to camp had killd nothing.

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Musselshell Mouth Passed; Frost and Ice Return

Mon, 04 May 2026 16:45:22 +0000

as usal. one of the hunters or trapers caught a large beaver last
night, about nine o. Clock A.M. we passed the mouth of a large
Creek on the S. Side & a handsom bottom of C. wood timber, pro-
ceeded on passed pitch pine & ceeder hills on each Side of the
River, the river narrow and crooked at 11 oClock we arived
at the mouth of Shell River on the Lard Side and formed a Camp
for the present, the large Creek which we passed about 4 miles
1 Named Wiser’s Creek for one of the members of the expedition. It is
modern Fourchette Creek, according to Coues. It is shown on the M. R. C.
map in Valley County, twenty-five miles below the mouth of Musselshell
River.
2 In Valley County, seven miles below the mouth of Musselshell River.
1805] SERGEANT ORDWAY’S JOURNAL 215
below on the Lard Side we Call Blowing fly Creek1 from the
emence quantities of those insect which geather on our meat in
Such nombers that we are obledged to brush them off what we
eate Mussel Shell River falls in on Lard Side 2270 miles2 up
[It] contains a greater perportion of water than River[s] of its
Size below. Cap* Clark measured it and found it to be 110
yards wide, the water of a greenish yallow coulour and appears
to be navagable for Small crafts, the natives Inform us that this
river heads in the 1st rocky mountains & passes through a broken
Country, its head at no great distance from the Yallow Stone
river3 the Country about this river as described yesterday, our
Captains took the Meridian altitude and found the Latd to be
47° 024″ the Missourie at the mouth of Shell River is 222 yds
wide with a Small current, the Missourie water is not So muddy
as below but retains nearly the usal colour, and the Sands prin-
cipily confined to the points. Cap* Clark killed two Deer and
Elk. the hunters killed Several Elk and Several Deer, mearly
for the Skins to make Leagins [two or three words illegible] &. C.
Some men was Sent out in the Direction the Country generally
verry broken Some level plains up the Shell river, the bottoms
of the Shell River is well timberd as also a Small river4 which
falls into that river on the upper Side 5 miles ab° its mouth the
hills on the Lard Side contain Scattering Pine and ceeder but of
no great value. Small & Scrubby, (came 7 miles to day)
May 21Bt Tuesday 1805. a butiful morning, wind from the
west, river falling a little, we Set out at an eairly hour and pro-
ceeded on in the usal way by the assistance of the chord prin-
cipally, but little use use for the oars & less with the poles, as the
bottom as the bottom are muddy, we See no great bodies of
pure Sand the bars & points are rich mud mixed with fine Sand.
Cap* Clark walked on Shore Stard Side the river makes a great
bend to the South in a Northerly direction is a rich vallie [which]
contain[s] Some Short grass, and prickly pears without timber
the Country on the South Side of the Missourie is high Soil and
1 Modern Squaw Creek, in Dawson County.
2 According to the M. R. C. map the mouth of Musselshell River is 2,076
miles above the mouth of the Missouri.
3 Musselshell River rises in the Little Belt Mountains in Meagher County.
It flows first eastwardly and then almost due north to the Missouri, forming,
in the latter portion of its course the boundary, first between Musselshell and
Rosebud, and finally between Fergus and Dawson counties.
* The explorers named this stream Sacajawea, or Bird Woman’s River.
With less gallantry the present generation calls it Crooked Creek.
216 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS [May 22
mineral appearence as usal Some Scatering pine & R. ceeder on
the hills. The wind which [blew] moderately all the fore part of
the day increased and about dusk Shifted to the N. W. and blew
high & Stormed all night Several loose articles were blown over-
board, our Camp which was on a Sand bar on the Stard Side at the
lower point of an Island1 we were obledged to move under the
hills the dust & Sand blew in clouds, the bends of the river are
Short and points covered with cotton wood under grooths wild
rose bush. Cap* Clark killed 2 Elk to day. Several deer killed
and a buffaloe cow. we Came 20 miles to day.
May 22nd Wednesday 1805. the wind continued to blow so
violently hard we did not think it prudent to Set out untill
it luled a little about 11 oClock we Set out the cold. passed
a Small Island in the bend of the river to the Lard Side, and pro-
ceeded on at 5 miles higher passed a Isld in a bend to the Stard
Side. & a creek a Short distance above on the Stard. Side Cap4
Lewis walked on Shore and killed a deer in the fore part of the
day, after dinner Cap* Clark walked out a fiew miles to view the
Country, which he found verry rich Soil produceing but little
vigitation of any kind except the prickly pairs but little grass
& that verry bad. a great deal of Scatering pine on the Lard
Side & Some fiew on the Stard Side, the mineral production as
described yesterday or in the proceeding days, the game not
So a bundant as below the river continues about the Same
width, a fiew Sand bars, and current more regular. River falls
about an Inch a day, we Camped on the Stard Side eairlier than
we intended on account of Saveing the oil of a yallow bear which
the party killed late this afternoon. Came 16£ miles to day.
Many of the creeks which appear to have no water near their
mouths have Streams of running water high up which rise &
waste in the Sand or gravel the water of those creeks are so
much impregnated with the Salt Substance that it cannot be
drank with pleasantness.
May 23rd Thursday 1805. a Severe frost last night, the Thur-
momiter Stood at the freezing point this morning wind s. w.
the water freezes on the ore Ice on the edge of the river, we Set
out at an eairly hour and passed the mouth of a Creek at 1 mile
1 Which they named Windy Island. By the explorers’ measurements it
was twenty miles above Musselshell River. It should be noted that Lewis
and Clark’s measurements in this portion of their route differ materially from
tln.se of the M. R. G. map. The distance from Musselshell to Judith River,
winch they give as 181. J miles, the latter represents as only 120 miles.
1805] SERGEANT ORDWAY’S JOURNAL 217
on the Stard Side which heads in a mountain N. W. of its mouth
10 miles the country on each Side is as passed yesterday, passed
2 Small creeks Stard & 2 on the Lard Side to day. a Mountain1
which appears to be 60 or 70 miles long bearing E. & W. is about
25 miles distant from this river on the Stard Side. Northerly of
us passed an Island. Cap* Clark walked on Shore and killed 4
Deer one Elk & a beaver, in the evening we killed a large fat
brown or yallow bear, which we unfortunately lost in the River
after being Shot [it] took the water & was carried under a drift
passed in course of this day three Islands two of them covered
with tall timber & a 3rd with willows the after part of this day
was warm & the Musquetoes troublesome Saw but fiew buffalow
a nomber of Elk & Deer & 5 bear & 2 antilopes to day. the river
begining to rise, & current more rapid than yesterday in many
places we Saw Spruce on the hills Sides Camped on Stard Side
Came 27 miles to day.
May 24th Friday 1805. a cold night the water in the Small
vessels froze | of an Inch thick & the Thurmo* Stood this morning
at the freezeing point we Set out at an eairly hour and pro-
ceeded [on] at 9 oClock we had a breeze of wind from the S. E.
which continued all day this Breeze aforded us good Sailing
the River riseing fast current verry rapid passed Several Small
Islands [and] two large & 2 Small creeks the 1st of these creeks
or small rivers a mile above our Camp is 30 y63 wide and contains
water and appears to take its rise in the North Mountain2 which
is Situated in a Northerly direction ab* 20 miles distant. 1 miles
higher up a creek falls in on the Lard Side opposite a large village
of Barking Squerrells 3 miles Still higher a Small Creek falls in
on the Lard. Side which is 40 yards wide & has running water
this Stream appears to take its rise in the South Mountains which
is Situated in a Southerly direction 30 or 40 miles distant.3
Cap* Clark walked on the high Country, on the Stard Side found
it broken & dry Some pine, Spruce & Dwarf ceeder on the hills
1 Little Rocky Mountains, in Blaine County, Mont.
2 From this circumstance it was named North Mountain Creek. North
Mountain is the Little Rocky Mountains already noted by Ordway, and the
creek is modern Rocky (or Little Rocky Mountain) Creek. Opposite its mouth
is the town of Wilder.
3 The creek is modern Armel, while “South Mountain” is now called Judith
Mountains, in Fergus County. Ordway is in error in locating Armel Creek
three miles above Rocky Creek. Two creeks intervening between these streams
are noted by Lewis. On the M. R. C. map Armel Creek is shown approxi-
mately thirteen miles above Rocky Creek.
218 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS [May 25
Sides, one man went 10 miles out he reported a Simelarity of a
country back. Cap* Clark killed a fat buffalow a Short distance
below the place we dined 2 canoes & 6 men waited & got the
best of the meat, did not joine the party this evening Camped
on the Lard Side on [a] point1 the cotton wood in this point is
begining to put out a Second time the first being killed by the
frost. Came 24^ miles to day.
May 25th Saturday 1805. the 2 canoes left for meat did not
join us untill 8 oClock this morning at which time we Set out.
the morning cool & pleasant wind a head all day from the S. W.
we passed a creek on the Lard. Side about 20 yards wide which
does not run we also passed 7 Islands. Cap* Clark walked on
Shore and killed a female Ibex or big hornd animel of a blackish
colour or dark duskey colour over the body, they have great
resemblance of the deer kind, especally the leggs, but the head
& huffs resemble a Sheep, they are verry active & keep freequently
on the Sides of Steep bluffs & places where wolves & bears cannot
hurt them.2 the Country on each Side is high broken [and]
rocky the rocks are soft Sand Stone and of a dark brown hard
& rough, the hills also contain Coal Coal &. C. the bars in the
river [are] covered with corse gravel the bottom of the river are
Small as we Saw a pole cat to day being the first we have Seen for
a long distance, the air of this country is pure & healthy [and]
the water of the Missourie fine and cool. Came 18 miles to day.
May 26th Sunday 1805. Set out eairly. wind from s. w. the
river nearly closed by the high hills on boath sides, the Country
thro which borders the River is high broken & rockey generally
imbeded with a Soft Sand Stone higher up the hills the Stone are
of a brownish yallow, hard & gritty those Stone wash in to the
River down the brooks and cause the Shore to be rockey for some
distance in the water which we find troublesome to assend. their
is Scarce any bottom under the hills, & but fiew trees to be Seen,
on either Side except a fiew pine on the hills, we passed 2 creeks
on the Starbord Side boath of them had running water in one
of them saw Soft Shell Turtle. Cap* Lewis in his walk killed a
fat Buffalow, which we were in want of the hunters killed 2
Mountain Rams, or big horned animel in the evening late we
1 In Fergus County, 5$ miles above the mouth of Armel Creek.
2 This was the first Rocky Mountain sheep taken by the explorers. Both
Gass and Lewis describe it with much care, due regard being had to their respec-
tive descriptive capacities. Clark embellishes his journal with a rude picture
of the animal.
1805] SERGEANT ORDWAY’S JOURNAL 219
passed a rapid which extended quite across the river, the waves
roled for Some distance below, we ascended it by the assistance
of the chord & poles except one which with Some difficulty got
up the Lard the crafts all crossed on Starbord Side we Saw a
dow Elk & faun, which gave rise to the name of Elk & faun riffle,
bluffs on Labord Side, and jist over the opposite Side is a livel
plain, we Camped a little above in a Small grove of Cotton trees
on the Lard Side.1 we had a flew drops of rain at dark, the Salts
coal & burnt hills Still continue. Game Scarcer, this country
may with propriety be called the Deserts of North america for I
do not conceive any part of it can ever be Sitled as it is deficient
of or in water except this River, & of timber & too Steep to be
tilled, we passed old Indian Camps & lodges in the woody points
everry day, & 2 at our Camp &. C. we Came 22f miles this day.
May 27th Monday 1805. the wind blew hard from the S. W.
which detained us untill about 10 oClock at which time we Set
out & proceeded on. passed a Small necked Island on the Lard
Side immediately above the timber in which we Camped the river
is verry Shoaley and the bad places are verry numerous, at the
mouth of every dreen the rocks is thrown Some distance in the
river which causes the riffles, this day is verry warm, we Saw
only a fiew herds of Big horned animel on the hills, & 2 Elk,
one of which we killed, we Camped at 2 dead top trees on the
Larbord Side, the river is generally about 200 yards wide &
current verry Swift, to day, and has a verry prosperous falls in
all its course it rises a little. Came 14 miles to day.2
May 28th Tuesday 1805. a cloudy morning. Some fiew drops of
rain & Smokey wind from the S. W. we Set out at an eairly
hour, the Shoaley places are verry numerous & Some bad to git
around, we have to make use of the cords & poles, our cords are
1 The M. R. C. map shows a series of rapids beginning near the 2,169 mile
point of the river. Their location corresponds with the point now reached
by the expedition. Camp was in Fergus County at or near the 2,170 mile point.
This afternoon Lewis ascended the hills bordering the river and from the
elevation thus gained enjoyed his first view of the Rocky Mountains. His
first joyful emotion was tempered, he records, by reflections upon the difficulties
“which this snowey barrier would most probably throw in my way to the Pacific,
and the sufferings and hardships of myself and party in thim.”
2 Gass pauses at this point in his journal for some “general observations”
upon the country passed through by the expedition since its departure from
the mouth of River Dubois a year earlier. He concludes with the dolorous
observation that this day’s journey has been through “the most dismal country
I ever beheld.”
220 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS [May 29
all except one made of Elk Skin & Stretch & Some time[s] broke
[break] which indanger the Pirogues or canoe, as it immediately
turns and if any rock Should chance to be below the rapidity of
the water would turn hir over if Should Strike, we observe great
caution at these places. Cap4 Clark walked on Shore, found the
country ruged and as described yesterday, he saw great nombers
of the Big hornned animels, one of which he killed their faun
are nearly half grown, one of the party saw a verry large bear,
we picked up a pole on the Shore which has been made use of by
the natives for a lodge pole & hailed by dogs & it is new & a
certain Sign of the Indians being on the River above a foot ball
& Several other articles are also found to Substantiate this
oppinion. at 1 oClock we had a fiew drops of rain & Some Thunder
which is the first Thunder we have had Since we Set out, from
Fort Mandans, at 10 miles the river the hills begin to widen & the
river Spreads and is crouded with Islands, the bottoms contain
Some Scatering cottonwood the Islands also contain timber,
passed a creek1 of running water on the Stard Side about 35
yards wide, and Camped imediately opposite to a Small Creek2
on Lard Side. Came 21 miles to day.
May 29th Wednesday 1805. in the course of last night we were
alarmed by a Buffalow Swimming across from the opposite Shore
& landed opposite the white perogue in which our Captains Stay.
he crossed the perogue, & went with great forse up the bank to
the fire where the men were Sleeping & was within 18 Inches of
their heads when one man setting up alarmed him and he turned
his course along the range of men as they lay, passing between
4 fires & within a fiew Inches of Several mens heads, it was Sup-
posed if he had trod on a man it would have killed him dead,
the dog flew at him which turned him from running against the
lodge, [in] which the officers layd he passed without doeing more
damage than bend a rifle & breaking hir Stalk & injuring one of
the blunderbusses in the perogue as he passed through, we Set
out this morning at the usal hour and proceeded on. at 2| miles
passed the mouth of a river [blank in Ms.] yards3 wide, discharge-
1 Named Thompson’s Creek, for one of the members of the expedition.
It is modern Birch Creek, in eastern Chouteau County.
– Named Bull Creek by (lie explorers, but now known as Dog Creek. It is
in Fergus County, about two miles below Judith River. •
•One hundred yards. Lewis. Clark named the stream Judith’s River,
in honor of thirteen-year-old Julia Hancock of Pincastle, Va., who 2$ years
later was to become liis wife. Happily the name thus bestowed by the gallant
Captain lias been retained by his white successors in this region.
1805] SERGEANT ORDWAY’S JOURNAL 221
ing a great quantity of water, and containing more wood in its
bottom than the Missourie. this river Cap* Lewis walked up a
Short distance and he Saw an old Indian encampment, we Saw
also great encampments on the Stard Side at the mouth of a small
creek of about 100 lodges, which appeared to be about 5 or 6
weeks past, our Indian woman examined their moccasons &. C.
and told us that they were the Indians which resided below the
rockey Mountains, and to the North of the river that hir nation
made their moccasons, differently, at 65 miles passed a consider-
able rapid at which place the hills approach near the river on both
Sides, leave a narrow bottom on the Starbord Side (ash rapid)1
and continue close all day [with] but little timber, we Saw the
remains of a nomber of buffalow which had been drove down a
steep clift of rocks, from appearence their was upwards of 100
of these animels all picked off in a drove, great nombers of wolves
were about this place & verry gentle Cap* Clark killed one of
them with his Sphere [spear], the hills above ash rapid contain
more rocks & coal, and the more rapid points, we come too for
dinner at or opposite the entrance of a Small River2 which falls
in on the Lard Side, & no timber for Some distance, has a bold
running Stream. Soon after we came too it began to rain, and
blew hard, and as we were in a good harbour a point of wood on
the Stard Side, & no timber for Some distance above, induced the
Captains to Stay all night, they gave each man a dram though
Small [it] was enofe to efect Several of the men3 one of the
hunters killed an Elk in the evening Cap1 Clark killed 2 beaver
on the Side of the bank. Some of the hunters who went out on
the high land, said it Snowed & hailed on the hills.
May 30th Thursday 1805. the rain commenced yesterday even-
ing & continued moderately through the course of the night,
more rain has now fallen than we have experenced Since the 15th
of September last, the rain continued this morning, and the wind
too high for us to proceed, untill ab* 11 oClock at which time we
Set out & proceeded on with great labour we were oblidged
to make use of the tow rope & the banks were So muddy & Slippery
that the men could Scarsely walk notwithstanding [this] we
1 Modern Drowned Man’s Rapid, about three miles above the mouth of
Judith River.
2 Arrow River; it forms the boundary, for a portion of its course, between
Fergus and Chouteau counties.
3 “such is the effects of abstaining for some time from the uce of sperituous
liquors; they were all very merry.” Lewis.
222 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS [May 31
proceeded as well as we could, wind hard from the N. W. in
attempting to assend a rapid our toe cord broke of the white
perogue, they turned without injury, those rapids are Shallow
points & are numerous & diffecult one being at the mouth of
every dreen. Some little rain at times all day. one man ascended
the high country & it was raining & Snowing on those high hills,
the day has proved to be raw and cold back from the river is
tollarably level, no timber of any kind on the hills, & only a fiew
Scatering trees of cottonwillows &. C. we discover in many
places old encampments of large bands of Indians, a fiew weeks
past & appear to be makeing up the River, those Indians we
believe to be the Blackfoot Indians or Manetaws [Minitareel
who Inhabit the Country on the heads of the Saskashoarr [Sas-
katchewan] North of this place & trade alitto [a little] in the Fort
Deprare [De Prairie] establishments.1 we Camped in a hand-
som Grove of cotton trees on the Stard. Side.2 River rise \.
Came 8 miles to day.
May 31st Friday 1805. a Cloudy morning, the canoes all
dispached eairly to collect the meat of 2 buffalow killed last
night, the perogues proceeded on it continued to rain moder-
ately untill about 12 oClock when it ceased & continued cloudy,
the Stones on the edges of the river continue to form very con-
siderable rapids we find them difficult to pass, the tow rope
of the white perogue which we were oblidge to make use of
broke & was in Some danger of turning over, we landed at
12 oClock the cap*8 gave the or refreshed the party with a
dram we are oblidged to undergo great labour and fatigue in
ascending this part of the Missourie as they [we] are compelled
from the rapidity of the current in many places to walk in the
water & on Slippery hill sides on the Sides of rocks &. c. on gravel
& thro Stiff mud, bear footed and we cannot keep on moccasons
from the Stiffness of the mud & decline of the Steepp hill sides3
— the hills and river clifTts of this day exhibit a most romantick
appearence on each Side of the river is a white soft sand Stone
bluffs which rises to about half the hight of the hills, on the top
of this Clift is a black earth, on points in many places this
sand Stone appears like antient ruins Some like elegant build-
1 The North West Company’s fort on the site of Edmonton, Alta.
2 In Chouteau County, eight miles above the mouth of Arrow River.
3 Lewis paints a more vivid picture of the hardships of the men, and con-
eludes: “in short their labour is incredibly painfull and great, yet those faith-
full fellows bear it without a murmur.”
1805] SERGEANT ORDWAY’S JOURNAL 223
ings at a distance, Some like Towers &.C. &.C. in many places
of this days march we observe on either Side of the river extro-
ardanary walls of a black semented stone which appear to be
regularly placed one Stone on the other. Some of those walls
rise to the hight of 100 feet, they are from about 9 foot to 12
feet deep or thick and are perpinticular. those walls commence
at the waters edge & in some places meet at right angles those
walls appear to continue thier course into the Sand clifts. the
Stone which for those walls are of different Sizes [are] all Square
edged great nombers has fallen from the walls near the river
which causes causes the wall of unequal hite, in the hollars &
gullies I Saw Some Scrubby ceddr. the low walls Strait White &
handsom, like ancient elegant buildings, towards evening the
country becomes lower and the bottoms wider, no timber on the
uplands, except a fiew ceddr & pine on the clifts. a fiew Scatering
cottonwood trees on the points in the river bottoms. The appear-
ence of coal continues. Cap* Lewis walked on Shore & observed a
Species of pine we had never before Seen, with a Shorter leaf than
common & The burr different, he also collected Some of the Stone
of one of the walls which appears to be a Siment of Sun glass black
earth, we Camped on the Stard Side in a Small timberd handsom
bottom above the mouth of a creek1 on the Stard Side, the hunt-
ers killed 2 animels with big horns. 2 ‘buff alow an Elk & a black
taild or mule deer, we Saw a nomber of those big horned animels
on the clifts. but fiew buffalow or Elk, no antilope, a fiew mule
Deer. Saw a fox to day. the river rises a little it is from 150 to
250 yards wide. Came 18 miles to day.2
June 1st Saturday 1805. a Cloudy morning, we Set out at an
eairly hour and proceeded on as usal with the toe rope, the
country appears to be lower and the clifts not so high or common,
a Mountain or a part of the north Mountain about 8 or 10 miles N.
of this place, more cotton trees scatering along the river & Islands
than yesterday, no timber on the high land. The river from 2 to
400 yards wide & current more jentle than yesterday, but fiew
bad rapids points to day. the wild animels not so pleanty as
below we only killed a ram & mule deer to day. we Saw buffalow
at a distance in the plains, perticularly near a lake on the Lard.
Side about 8 eight miles off from the river, we passed Six Islands and
1 Which they named Stonewall Creek. Now called Eagle Creek, in Chouteau
County.
2 The night’s camp was “just above the mouth” of Eagle Creek. Lewis.
224 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS
Camped on the 7th all night.1 all those Islands are Small but con-
tain Some timber on them. The river riseing a little wind to day
from S. W. Some fiew drops of rain in the morning and also in
the evening, flying clouds all day. Saw Several Indians Camps
made of Sticks & Set up on end and do not appear to be long
evacuated. The roses in full bloom we saw yallow berry, red
berry bushes great nombers wild or choke Cherries, prickly pairs
are in the blossom we Saw great nombers of them. Came 23
miles to day.
June 2nd Sunday 1805. we had a hard wind & a little rain last
night, this morning fair, we Set out at an eairly hour, wind from
S. W. Some little rain to day wind hard a head, the Country
much like that of yesterday, as described. Cap* Lewis walked on
Shore, himself and the hunters killed 6 Elk a bear2 and 2 mule
Deer, and 2 buffalow, which was all in good order a beaver also
killed this evening, passed 9 Islands to day. the current Swift but
regular, we Camped on the Larboard Side at the mouth or at
the forks of the river.3 the current & Sizes of them we could not
examine this evening, a fair night. The Captains took Some
Lunr observations, of moon & Stars. Came 18 miles to day.
1 Five miles, according to Coues, above the mouth of Little Sandy Creek.
The distances given by Lewis and Clark in this portion of their route mater-
ially overrun the M. R. C. map measurements.
2 The bear, a grizzly, undertook to do some killing on its own account. It
came “very near catching Drewyer,” and pursued Charbonneau so hotly that
he was forced to secrete himself “very securely” in some bushes until it was
slain. Lewis.
3 At the mouth of Marias River. For the name given it see post, 228,
note 1. On the problem which its discovery presented to Lewis and Clark for
solution see Ordway’s entry for June 3 and post, 226, note 1.
i hi: t’.u.i.s .,.•>„ /-o/< r.uif-: THE FALLS AN!) THE PORTAGE ROUTE Krom the Dublin, 1X17, reprinl of the Biddle History of the Lewis and Clark Expedition CHAPTER VIII From Marias River to the Great Falls, June 3 — July 14, 1805 June 3rd Monday 1805. we formed a Camp on the point in the junction of the two rivers, & two canoes & 3 men were dispached up each river to examine and find if possable which is the most probable branch, the left fork which is the largest we are doubtful of. the Indians do not mention any river falling in on the right in this part of the Missourie Missourie. The Scolding river,1 if their is Such a one Should have fallen in below agreeable to their acct8 men were dispached also in different directions by land, to a mountain covred with Snow to the South. & others up each river, the Captains walked out & assended the hill in the point, they observed a level Country to the foot of the mountains which lye South of this, also a River2 which falls into the Right hand fork about 1| miles above its mouth on the Larboard Side, this little river descharges a great deal of water & contains as much cotton timber in its bottoms as either of the others, they Saw buffalow & antilopes wild Cherries red & yallow berrys, Goose berrys &.C. abound in the river bottoms, prickley pairs on the high plains, the Capts had a meridian altitude and the Latitude produced was 27° 24' 12" North, the after part of the day proved Cloudy. Cap* Clark measured each river & found the one to the Right hand 186 yards wide of water, & the left hand fork 372 yards wide and rapid, the right hand fork falling the other at a Stand, and clear the right fork and the river which fall into it is couloured & a little muddy. Several of the party complain of their feet being Sore by walking in the Sand, & their being cut by the Stones we to be Sure have a hard time of it oblidged to walk on Shore & hawl the rope and fo of their time barefooted, in the evening the parties all returned to Camp had been about 15 1 Milk River; for the name see ante, 209, note 1. 2 "called Rose river." Gass. It is modern Teton River, a considerable stream which rises in Teton County and flows almost due east to its junction with Marias River. 225 226 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS [June 4 miles up each river, but could not determine which would be our most probable branch for our Course &.C. our officers are not Satisfied in their minds which River will be best to for us to take. So they determine to leave the crafts & the most of the men here & go one day & a half up each river with a Small party to find out which will be the most probable River for us to take &.C the hunters killed 4 buffalow 3 Elk 3 beaver & Several Deer our officers Gave Each man a Dram. June 4th Tuesday 1805. Cap' Lewis and 6 men Set out to go up the right hand fork. Cap' Clark & 5 more Set out at the Same time to go up the left hand fork in order to go one day & a halfs march up the River and see if they can find out which will be our best River to proceed on. Some of the men at camp killed 2 faun Elk near the point for their Skins to dress, the day proved Cloudy. 2 men who had been from Camp a hunting returned to- wards evening, had killed one Elk & a Deer & Set traps for beaver, &.C. a fiew drops of rain towards evening & high cold wind from the North.

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Violent Thunderstorm Snaps Cables, Scatters Two Canoes

Tue, 10 Feb 2026 20:37:56 +0000

Saturday 31st August 1806 all wet and disagreeable this morning. at half
past 11 last night the wind Shifted about to the N. W. and it began to
rain with hard Claps of thunder and lightning the Clouds passd over and
the wind Shifted about to the S W. & blew with great violence So much
So that all hands were obliged to hold the Canoes & Perogue to prevent
their being blown off from the Sand bar, however a Suden Squal of wind
broke the cables of the two Small Canoes and with Some dificuelty they
were got to Shore Soon after the 2 Canoes in which Sergt. Pryor and the
indians go in broke loose with wiser and Willard in them and were blown
quite across the river to the N E. Shore where fortunately they arived
Safe, I Sent Sergt. Jo Ordway with a Small perogue and 6 men to prosue the
2 Canoes and assist them in effecting a landing, those 2 Canoes being tied
together 2 men could not manage them, the wind Slackened a little and by 2
A.M. Sergt Ordway with willard wiser and the 2 Canoes returned all Safe,
the wind continud to blow and it rained untill day light all wet and
disagreeable. all the party examind their arms and put them in order and
we Set out and proceeded on down. Saw Several Indians on the hills untill
we passed the Island of Cedar 9 A. M the morning Cloudy and wind down the
the river at 4 P.M. passed the doome and lowest village of Barking
Squirels. this is also the highest up the river where I observed the fox
Squirel in the bottom above the doome on N. E Side I killed 2 fox
Squirels. we Saw no game of any kind to day as the banks as usial. the Sun
Shone with a number of flying Clouds. we encamped on the N. E. Side a
little below our Encampment of the 5th of Septr. on no preserve Island
haveing Come 70 Miles.

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Joyful Reunion with the Canoe Party

Tue, 10 Feb 2026 20:37:48 +0000

July 28th 1806 Monday. The morning proved fair, I slept sound but
fortunately awoke as day appeared, I awaked the men and directed the
horses to be saddled, I was so soar from my ride yesterday that I could
scarcely stand, and the men complained of being in a similar situation
however I encourged them by telling them that our own lives as well as
those of our friends and fellow travellers depended on our exertions at
this moment; they were allert soon prepared the horses and we again
resumed our march; the men proposed to pass the missouri at the grog
spring where rose river approaches it so nearly and pass down on the S. W.
side, to this I objected as it would delay us almost all day to reach the
point by this circuetous rout and would give the enemy time to surprise
and cut off the party at the point if they had arrived there, I told them
that we owed much to the safety of our friends and that we must wrisk our
lives on this occasion, that I should proceed immediately to the point and
if the party had not arrived that I would raft the missouri a small
distance above, hide our baggage and march on foot up the river through
the timber untill I met the canoes or joined them at the falls; I now told
them that it was my determination that if we were attacked in the plains
on our way to the point that the bridles of the horses should be tied
together and we would stand and defend them, or sell our lives as dear as
we could. we had proceeded about 12 miles on an East course when we found
ourselves near the missouri; we heared a report which we took to be that
of a gun but were not certain; still continuing down the N. E. bank of the
missouri about 8 miles further, being then within five miles of the grog
spring we heared the report of several rifles very distinctly on the river
to our right, we quickly repared to this joyfull sound and on arriving at
the bank of the river had the unspeakable satisfaction to see our canoes
coming down. we hurried down from the bluff on which we were and joined
them striped our horses and gave them a final discharge imbrarking without
loss of time with our baggage. I now learned that they had brought all
things safe having sustaned no loss nor met with any accident of
importance. Wiser had cut his leg badly with a knife and was unable in
consequence to work. we decended the river opposite to our principal cash
which we proceeded to open after reconnoitering the adjacent country. we
found that the cash had caved in and most of the articles burried therin
were injured; I sustained the loss of two very large bear skins which I
much regret; most of the fur and baggage belonging to the men were
injured. the gunpowder corn flour poark and salt had sustained but little
injury the parched meal was spoiled or nearly so. having no time to air
these things which they much wanted we droped down to the point to take in
the several articles which had been buried at that place in several small
cashes; these we found in good order, and recovered every article except 3
traps belonging to Drewyer which could not be found. here as good fortune
would have it Sergt. Gass and Willard who brought the horses from the
falls joined us at 1 P.M. I had ordered them to bring down the horses to
this place in order to assist them in collecting meat which I had directed
them to kill and dry here for our voyage, presuming that they would have
arrived with the perogue and canoes at this place several days before my
return. having now nothing to detain us we passed over immediately to the
island in the entrance of Maria’s river to launch the red perogue, but
found her so much decayed that it was impossible with the means we had to
repare her and therefore mearly took the nails and other ironwork’s about
her which might be of service to us and left her. we now reimbarked on
board the white peroge and five small canoes and decended the river about
15 ms. and encamped on the S. W. side near a few cottonwood trees, one of
them being of the narrow leafed speceis and was the first of that kind
which we had remarked on our passage up the river. we encamped late but
having little meat I sent out a couple of hunters who soon returned with a
sufficient quantity of the flesh of a fat cow. there are immence
quantities of buffaloe and Elk about the junction of the Missouri and
Maria’s rivers.during the time we halted at the er.crance of
Maria’s river we experienced a very heavy shower of rain and hail attended
with violent thunder and lightning.

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Wiser and Frazier Sent to Detain Nez Perce Guides

Tue, 10 Feb 2026 20:37:36 +0000

Monday June 23rd 1806 Apprehensive from Drewyer & Shannons delay that
they had met with Some dif icuelty in precureing a guide, and also that
the two indians who had promised to wait two nights for us would Set out
today, we thought it most adviseable to dispatch Wizer & Frazier to
them this morning with a view if possible to detain them a day or two
longer; and directed that in the event of their not being able to detain
the indians, that Sergt. Gass, Jo. & R. Field & Wiser Should
accompany the Indians by whatever rout they might take to travellers rest
and blaize the trees well as they proceeded, and wait at that place untill
our arival with the party. the hunters as usial were dispatched early this
morning. The does now haveing their young the hunters can blait them up,
and in that manner kill them with more facillity and ease. the indians
pursue the game So much on horse back in this neighbourhood that it is
very Shye. our hunters killed ____ deer today. at 4 P.M. Shannon Drewyer
& Whitehouse returned. Shannon & Drewyer brought with them three
indians who had consented to accompany us to the falls of the Missouri for
the Compensation of 2 guns. one of those men is the brother of the Cutnose
and the other two are the Same who presented Capt L. and myself with a
horse on a former occasion at the Lodge of the broken arm, and the two who
promised to pursue us in nine nights after we left the river, or on the
19th inst. Those are all young men of good Charrector and much respected
by their nation. those men infor us that thir nation as well as the
Wallar-wallars have made peace with the Shoshones agreeable to our late
advice to them. they also inform us that they have heard by means of the
Skeetsomis Nation & Clarks river that the Big bellies of Fort de
Prarie Killed great numbers of the Shoshons and Otte lee Shoots which we
met with last fall on the East fork of Lewis’s river and high up the West
fork of Clarks river &c.

We directed the horses to be brought near Camp and secured in Such a
manner that they may be readily obtained in the morning being deturmined
to make an early Start if possible-.Colter one of our hunters did
not return this evening

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Racing to Prevent Nez Perce Guides from Departing

Tue, 10 Feb 2026 20:37:36 +0000

Monday June 23rd 1806. Apprehensive from Drewyer’s delay that he had met
with some difficulty in procuring a guide, and also that the two indians
who had promised to wait two nights for us would set out today, we thought
it most advisable to dispatch Frazier and Wiser to them this morning with
a vew if possible to detain them a day or two longer; and directed that in
the event of their not being able to detain the indians, that Sergt. Gass,
R & J. Feilds and Wiser should accompany the indians by whatever rout
they might take to travellers rest and blaize the trees well as they
proceeded and wait at that place untill our arrivall with the party. the
hunters as usual wer dispatched early this morning. the does now having
their fawns the hunters can bleat them up and in that manner kill them
with more facility and ease. the indians pursue the game so much on
horseback in this neighbourhood that it is very shye. our hunters killed 4
deer and a bear today. at 4 P.M. Drewyer Shannon and Whitehouse returned.
Drewyer brought with him three indians who had consented to accompany us
to the falls of the Missouri for the compensation of two guns. one of
those men is the brother of the cutnose and the other two are the same who
presented Capt. Clark and myself each with a horse on a former occasion at
the Lodge of the broken arm. these are all young men of good character and
much respected by their nation. we directed the horses to be brought near
camp this evening and secured in such manner that they may be readily
obtained in the morning being determined to make an early start if
possible.Colter one of our hunters did not return this evening.

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Three Nez Perce Guides Lead Party Back Eastward

Tue, 10 Feb 2026 20:37:36 +0000

Tuesday June 24th 1806 We collected our horses early this morning and Set
out accompanied by our 3 guides. Colter joined us this morning haveing
killed a Bear, which from his discription of it’s poverty and distance we
did not think proper to send after. We nooned it as usial at Collins’s
Creek where we found Frazier, solus; the other four men haveing Born in
pursute of the two indians who had Set out from Collin’s Creek two hours
before Fraziers arrival Wiser arrived there. after dinner we Continued our
rout to fish Creek a branch of Collin’s creek where we had lain the 15th
18th 19th & 20th inst. here we found Sargt. Gass, Wiser and the two
indian men whome they had prevaild on to remain at that place untill our
arival; Jos. & R. Field had killed one Small deer only while they lay
at Collins creek, and of this they had been liberal to the indians
insomuch that they had no provisions; they had gone on to the branch of
hungary Creek at which we shall noon it tomorrow in order to hunt. we had
fine grass for our horses this evening.

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Colter Rejoins; Native Guides Secured at Collins Creek

Tue, 10 Feb 2026 20:37:36 +0000

Tuesday June 24th 1806. We collected our horses early this morning and set
out accompanyed by our three guides. Colter joined us this morning having
killed a bear, which from his discription of it’s poverty and distance we
did not think proper to send after. we nooned it as usual at Collins’s
Creek where we found Frazier, solus; the other four men having gone in
pursuit of the two indian men who had set out from Collins’s Creek two
hours before Frazier and Wizer arrived. after dinner we continued our rout
to Fish Creek a branch of Collins’s Creek where we had lain on the 19th
& 20th inst. here we found Sergt. Gass Wiser and the two indians whom
they had prevailed on to remain at that place untill our arrival; R. &
J. Feilds had only killed one small deer only while they lay at Collins’s
Creek and of this they had been liberal to the indians insomuch that they
had no provision; they had gone on to the branch of hungary Creek at which
we shall noon it tomorrow in order to hunt. we had fine grass for our
horses this evening.

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Coat Buttons Bartered for Three Bushels of Roots

Tue, 10 Feb 2026 20:37:28 +0000

Monday June 2nd 1806 McNeal and York were Sent on a tradeing voyage over
the river this morning. having exhosted all our Merchendize we were
obliged to have recourse to every Subterfuge in order to prepare in the
most ample manner in our power to meet that wretched portion of our
journy, the Rocky Mountains, where hungar and Cold in their most regorous
form assail the waried traveller; not any of us have yet forgotten our
those mountains in September last, I think it probable we never Shall. Our
traders McNeal and York are furnished with the buttons which Capt L-. and
my Self Cut off of our Coats, Some eye water and Basilicon which we made
for that purpose and Some phials of eye water and Some tin boxes which
Capt L. had brought from Philadelphia. in the evening they returned with
about 3 bushels of roots and Some bread haveing made a Suckcessfull
voyage, not much less pleasing to us than the return of a good Cargo to an
East India merchant.

Shields, Collins, Reuben & Joseph Field & Shannon Set out on a
hunting excurtion to the quaw mash the lower side of Collins Creek &
towards the Mountains.

Drewyer arived this evening with Neeshneparkkeeook and Hohashillpilp who
had accompanied him to the lodge of the person who had our tomahawks. he
obtained both the tomahawks principally by the influence of the former of
those Chiefs. the one which had been Stolen we prized most as it was the
private property of the late Serjt. Floyd and I was desireous of returning
it to his friends. The man who had this tomahawk had purchased it from the
man who had Stolen it, and was himself at the moment of their arival just
expireing. his relations were unwilling to give up the tomahawk as they
intended to bury it with the deceased owner, but were at length to do so
for the Consideration of a handkerchief, two Strands of heeds, which
drewyer gave them and two horses given by the Chiefs to be Killed
agreeable to their custom at the grave of the deceased. The custom of
Sacrificeing horses to the disceased appears to be Common to all the
nations of the plains of the Columbia. a Wife of Neeshneeparkkeeook died
Some Short time Sence, himself and her relations sacrificed horses to her.
The Indians inform us that there is a plenty of Moos to the S. E. of them
on the East branch of Lewis’s river which they Call Tommawamah River.
About noon Sergt. Ordway Frazier and Wiser returnd. with 17 Salmon and
Some roots of the Cows; the distance was So great from whence they brought
the fish, that most of them were nearly Spoiled. those fish were as fat as
any I ever saw; Sufficiently So to cook themselves without the addition of
Grease or butter; those which were Sound were extreemly delicious; their
flesh is of a fine rose colour with a Small admixture of yellow. these men
Set out on the 27th ulto. and in Sted of finding the fishing Shore at the
distance of half a days ride as we had been informed, they did not reach
the place at which they obtained their fish untill the evening of the 29th
haveing traveled near 70 miles. the rout they had taken however was not a
direct one; the Indians Conducted them in the first instance to the East
fork of Lewis’s river about 10 miles above it’s junction with the South
branch, a distance of about 50 miles where they informed them they might
obtain fish; but on their arival at that place finding that the Salmon had
not arived or were not taken, they were Conducted down that river to a
fishery a fiew miles below the junction of the forks of Lewis’s River
about 20 miles further, here they remained one day and with some
dificuelty, they purchased the Salmon which they brought with them. the
first 20 ms. Of their rout was up Commeap Creek and through a plain open
Country, the hills of the Creek Continued high and broken with Some timber
near it’s borders, the ballance of their rout was through a high broken
Mountanious Country. generally well timbered with pine the soil fertile.
in this quarter the meet with abundance of deer and Some big-horned
Animals. The East fork of Lewis’s river they discribe as one Continued
rapid of about 150 yards wide, it’s banks are in most places Solid and
perpindicular rocks, which rise to a great hight; it’s hills are
mountanious high. on the top of Some of those hills over which they
passed, the Snow had not entirely disappeared, and the grass was just
springing up. at the fishery on Lewis’s river below the forks there is a
very Considerable rapid, nearly as Great from the information of Sergt.
Ordway as the Great falls of the Columbia the river 200 yards wide. their
common house at this fishery is built of Split timber 150 feet long and 35
feet in width, flat at top. the general Course from here to the forks of
Lewis’s river is a little to the west of South about 45 ms. The men at
this Season resort their fisheries while the womin are employed in
collecting roots-. both forks above the junction of Lewis’s river appear
to enter a high Mountainious Country. our horses are all recovering &
I have no hesitation in declareing that I believe that the Indian Method
of guilding preferable to that practised by ourselves.

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