Missouri River near Musselshell River — John Ordway: May 20, 1805
The expedition pushed up the Missouri River through increasingly rugged country in present-day Montana, passing the mouth of the Musselshell River on May 20 and naming several tributaries including Blowing Fly Creek and the Judith River. Cold weather brought frost and ice, while strong winds, rapids, and slippery banks made towing the boats grueling work. The men encountered their first bighorn sheep, a wandering buffalo that nearly trampled sleeping men, and striking white sandstone cliffs. By June 3 they reached a major fork (the Marias) and Captains Lewis and Clark each led small parties up the two branches to determine which was the true Missouri.
as usal. one of the hunters or trapers caught a large beaver last
night, about nine o. Clock A.M. we passed the mouth of a large
Creek on the S. Side & a handsom bottom of C. wood timber, pro-
ceeded on passed pitch pine & ceeder hills on each Side of the
River, the river narrow and crooked at 11 oClock we arived
at the mouth of Shell River on the Lard Side and formed a Camp
for the present, the large Creek which we passed about 4 miles
1 Named Wiser’s Creek for one of the members of the expedition. It is
modern Fourchette Creek, according to Coues. It is shown on the M. R. C.
map in Valley County, twenty-five miles below the mouth of Musselshell
River.
2 In Valley County, seven miles below the mouth of Musselshell River.
1805] SERGEANT ORDWAY’S JOURNAL 215
below on the Lard Side we Call Blowing fly Creek1 from the
emence quantities of those insect which geather on our meat in
Such nombers that we are obledged to brush them off what we
eate Mussel Shell River falls in on Lard Side 2270 miles2 up
[It] contains a greater perportion of water than River[s] of its
Size below. Cap* Clark measured it and found it to be 110
yards wide, the water of a greenish yallow coulour and appears
to be navagable for Small crafts, the natives Inform us that this
river heads in the 1st rocky mountains & passes through a broken
Country, its head at no great distance from the Yallow Stone
river3 the Country about this river as described yesterday, our
Captains took the Meridian altitude and found the Latd to be
47° 024″ the Missourie at the mouth of Shell River is 222 yds
wide with a Small current, the Missourie water is not So muddy
as below but retains nearly the usal colour, and the Sands prin-
cipily confined to the points. Cap* Clark killed two Deer and
Elk. the hunters killed Several Elk and Several Deer, mearly
for the Skins to make Leagins [two or three words illegible] &. C.
Some men was Sent out in the Direction the Country generally
verry broken Some level plains up the Shell river, the bottoms
of the Shell River is well timberd as also a Small river4 which
falls into that river on the upper Side 5 miles ab° its mouth the
hills on the Lard Side contain Scattering Pine and ceeder but of
no great value. Small & Scrubby, (came 7 miles to day)
May 21Bt Tuesday 1805. a butiful morning, wind from the
west, river falling a little, we Set out at an eairly hour and pro-
ceeded on in the usal way by the assistance of the chord prin-
cipally, but little use use for the oars & less with the poles, as the
bottom as the bottom are muddy, we See no great bodies of
pure Sand the bars & points are rich mud mixed with fine Sand.
Cap* Clark walked on Shore Stard Side the river makes a great
bend to the South in a Northerly direction is a rich vallie [which]
contain[s] Some Short grass, and prickly pears without timber
the Country on the South Side of the Missourie is high Soil and
1 Modern Squaw Creek, in Dawson County.
2 According to the M. R. C. map the mouth of Musselshell River is 2,076
miles above the mouth of the Missouri.
3 Musselshell River rises in the Little Belt Mountains in Meagher County.
It flows first eastwardly and then almost due north to the Missouri, forming,
in the latter portion of its course the boundary, first between Musselshell and
Rosebud, and finally between Fergus and Dawson counties.
* The explorers named this stream Sacajawea, or Bird Woman’s River.
With less gallantry the present generation calls it Crooked Creek.
216 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS [May 22
mineral appearence as usal Some Scatering pine & R. ceeder on
the hills. The wind which [blew] moderately all the fore part of
the day increased and about dusk Shifted to the N. W. and blew
high & Stormed all night Several loose articles were blown over-
board, our Camp which was on a Sand bar on the Stard Side at the
lower point of an Island1 we were obledged to move under the
hills the dust & Sand blew in clouds, the bends of the river are
Short and points covered with cotton wood under grooths wild
rose bush. Cap* Clark killed 2 Elk to day. Several deer killed
and a buffaloe cow. we Came 20 miles to day.
May 22nd Wednesday 1805. the wind continued to blow so
violently hard we did not think it prudent to Set out untill
it luled a little about 11 oClock we Set out the cold. passed
a Small Island in the bend of the river to the Lard Side, and pro-
ceeded on at 5 miles higher passed a Isld in a bend to the Stard
Side. & a creek a Short distance above on the Stard. Side Cap4
Lewis walked on Shore and killed a deer in the fore part of the
day, after dinner Cap* Clark walked out a fiew miles to view the
Country, which he found verry rich Soil produceing but little
vigitation of any kind except the prickly pairs but little grass
& that verry bad. a great deal of Scatering pine on the Lard
Side & Some fiew on the Stard Side, the mineral production as
described yesterday or in the proceeding days, the game not
So a bundant as below the river continues about the Same
width, a fiew Sand bars, and current more regular. River falls
about an Inch a day, we Camped on the Stard Side eairlier than
we intended on account of Saveing the oil of a yallow bear which
the party killed late this afternoon. Came 16£ miles to day.
Many of the creeks which appear to have no water near their
mouths have Streams of running water high up which rise &
waste in the Sand or gravel the water of those creeks are so
much impregnated with the Salt Substance that it cannot be
drank with pleasantness.
May 23rd Thursday 1805. a Severe frost last night, the Thur-
momiter Stood at the freezing point this morning wind s. w.
the water freezes on the ore Ice on the edge of the river, we Set
out at an eairly hour and passed the mouth of a Creek at 1 mile
1 Which they named Windy Island. By the explorers’ measurements it
was twenty miles above Musselshell River. It should be noted that Lewis
and Clark’s measurements in this portion of their route differ materially from
tln.se of the M. R. G. map. The distance from Musselshell to Judith River,
winch they give as 181. J miles, the latter represents as only 120 miles.
1805] SERGEANT ORDWAY’S JOURNAL 217
on the Stard Side which heads in a mountain N. W. of its mouth
10 miles the country on each Side is as passed yesterday, passed
2 Small creeks Stard & 2 on the Lard Side to day. a Mountain1
which appears to be 60 or 70 miles long bearing E. & W. is about
25 miles distant from this river on the Stard Side. Northerly of
us passed an Island. Cap* Clark walked on Shore and killed 4
Deer one Elk & a beaver, in the evening we killed a large fat
brown or yallow bear, which we unfortunately lost in the River
after being Shot [it] took the water & was carried under a drift
passed in course of this day three Islands two of them covered
with tall timber & a 3rd with willows the after part of this day
was warm & the Musquetoes troublesome Saw but fiew buffalow
a nomber of Elk & Deer & 5 bear & 2 antilopes to day. the river
begining to rise, & current more rapid than yesterday in many
places we Saw Spruce on the hills Sides Camped on Stard Side
Came 27 miles to day.
May 24th Friday 1805. a cold night the water in the Small
vessels froze | of an Inch thick & the Thurmo* Stood this morning
at the freezeing point we Set out at an eairly hour and pro-
ceeded [on] at 9 oClock we had a breeze of wind from the S. E.
which continued all day this Breeze aforded us good Sailing
the River riseing fast current verry rapid passed Several Small
Islands [and] two large & 2 Small creeks the 1st of these creeks
or small rivers a mile above our Camp is 30 y63 wide and contains
water and appears to take its rise in the North Mountain2 which
is Situated in a Northerly direction ab* 20 miles distant. 1 miles
higher up a creek falls in on the Lard Side opposite a large village
of Barking Squerrells 3 miles Still higher a Small Creek falls in
on the Lard. Side which is 40 yards wide & has running water
this Stream appears to take its rise in the South Mountains which
is Situated in a Southerly direction 30 or 40 miles distant.3
Cap* Clark walked on the high Country, on the Stard Side found
it broken & dry Some pine, Spruce & Dwarf ceeder on the hills
1 Little Rocky Mountains, in Blaine County, Mont.
2 From this circumstance it was named North Mountain Creek. North
Mountain is the Little Rocky Mountains already noted by Ordway, and the
creek is modern Rocky (or Little Rocky Mountain) Creek. Opposite its mouth
is the town of Wilder.
3 The creek is modern Armel, while “South Mountain” is now called Judith
Mountains, in Fergus County. Ordway is in error in locating Armel Creek
three miles above Rocky Creek. Two creeks intervening between these streams
are noted by Lewis. On the M. R. C. map Armel Creek is shown approxi-
mately thirteen miles above Rocky Creek.
218 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS [May 25
Sides, one man went 10 miles out he reported a Simelarity of a
country back. Cap* Clark killed a fat buffalow a Short distance
below the place we dined 2 canoes & 6 men waited & got the
best of the meat, did not joine the party this evening Camped
on the Lard Side on [a] point1 the cotton wood in this point is
begining to put out a Second time the first being killed by the
frost. Came 24^ miles to day.
May 25th Saturday 1805. the 2 canoes left for meat did not
join us untill 8 oClock this morning at which time we Set out.
the morning cool & pleasant wind a head all day from the S. W.
we passed a creek on the Lard. Side about 20 yards wide which
does not run we also passed 7 Islands. Cap* Clark walked on
Shore and killed a female Ibex or big hornd animel of a blackish
colour or dark duskey colour over the body, they have great
resemblance of the deer kind, especally the leggs, but the head
& huffs resemble a Sheep, they are verry active & keep freequently
on the Sides of Steep bluffs & places where wolves & bears cannot
hurt them.2 the Country on each Side is high broken [and]
rocky the rocks are soft Sand Stone and of a dark brown hard
& rough, the hills also contain Coal Coal &. C. the bars in the
river [are] covered with corse gravel the bottom of the river are
Small as we Saw a pole cat to day being the first we have Seen for
a long distance, the air of this country is pure & healthy [and]
the water of the Missourie fine and cool. Came 18 miles to day.
May 26th Sunday 1805. Set out eairly. wind from s. w. the
river nearly closed by the high hills on boath sides, the Country
thro which borders the River is high broken & rockey generally
imbeded with a Soft Sand Stone higher up the hills the Stone are
of a brownish yallow, hard & gritty those Stone wash in to the
River down the brooks and cause the Shore to be rockey for some
distance in the water which we find troublesome to assend. their
is Scarce any bottom under the hills, & but fiew trees to be Seen,
on either Side except a fiew pine on the hills, we passed 2 creeks
on the Starbord Side boath of them had running water in one
of them saw Soft Shell Turtle. Cap* Lewis in his walk killed a
fat Buffalow, which we were in want of the hunters killed 2
Mountain Rams, or big horned animel in the evening late we
1 In Fergus County, 5$ miles above the mouth of Armel Creek.
2 This was the first Rocky Mountain sheep taken by the explorers. Both
Gass and Lewis describe it with much care, due regard being had to their respec-
tive descriptive capacities. Clark embellishes his journal with a rude picture
of the animal.
1805] SERGEANT ORDWAY’S JOURNAL 219
passed a rapid which extended quite across the river, the waves
roled for Some distance below, we ascended it by the assistance
of the chord & poles except one which with Some difficulty got
up the Lard the crafts all crossed on Starbord Side we Saw a
dow Elk & faun, which gave rise to the name of Elk & faun riffle,
bluffs on Labord Side, and jist over the opposite Side is a livel
plain, we Camped a little above in a Small grove of Cotton trees
on the Lard Side.1 we had a flew drops of rain at dark, the Salts
coal & burnt hills Still continue. Game Scarcer, this country
may with propriety be called the Deserts of North america for I
do not conceive any part of it can ever be Sitled as it is deficient
of or in water except this River, & of timber & too Steep to be
tilled, we passed old Indian Camps & lodges in the woody points
everry day, & 2 at our Camp &. C. we Came 22f miles this day.
May 27th Monday 1805. the wind blew hard from the S. W.
which detained us untill about 10 oClock at which time we Set
out & proceeded on. passed a Small necked Island on the Lard
Side immediately above the timber in which we Camped the river
is verry Shoaley and the bad places are verry numerous, at the
mouth of every dreen the rocks is thrown Some distance in the
river which causes the riffles, this day is verry warm, we Saw
only a fiew herds of Big horned animel on the hills, & 2 Elk,
one of which we killed, we Camped at 2 dead top trees on the
Larbord Side, the river is generally about 200 yards wide &
current verry Swift, to day, and has a verry prosperous falls in
all its course it rises a little. Came 14 miles to day.2
May 28th Tuesday 1805. a cloudy morning. Some fiew drops of
rain & Smokey wind from the S. W. we Set out at an eairly
hour, the Shoaley places are verry numerous & Some bad to git
around, we have to make use of the cords & poles, our cords are
1 The M. R. C. map shows a series of rapids beginning near the 2,169 mile
point of the river. Their location corresponds with the point now reached
by the expedition. Camp was in Fergus County at or near the 2,170 mile point.
This afternoon Lewis ascended the hills bordering the river and from the
elevation thus gained enjoyed his first view of the Rocky Mountains. His
first joyful emotion was tempered, he records, by reflections upon the difficulties
“which this snowey barrier would most probably throw in my way to the Pacific,
and the sufferings and hardships of myself and party in thim.”
2 Gass pauses at this point in his journal for some “general observations”
upon the country passed through by the expedition since its departure from
the mouth of River Dubois a year earlier. He concludes with the dolorous
observation that this day’s journey has been through “the most dismal country
I ever beheld.”
220 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS [May 29
all except one made of Elk Skin & Stretch & Some time[s] broke
[break] which indanger the Pirogues or canoe, as it immediately
turns and if any rock Should chance to be below the rapidity of
the water would turn hir over if Should Strike, we observe great
caution at these places. Cap4 Clark walked on Shore, found the
country ruged and as described yesterday, he saw great nombers
of the Big hornned animels, one of which he killed their faun
are nearly half grown, one of the party saw a verry large bear,
we picked up a pole on the Shore which has been made use of by
the natives for a lodge pole & hailed by dogs & it is new & a
certain Sign of the Indians being on the River above a foot ball
& Several other articles are also found to Substantiate this
oppinion. at 1 oClock we had a fiew drops of rain & Some Thunder
which is the first Thunder we have had Since we Set out, from
Fort Mandans, at 10 miles the river the hills begin to widen & the
river Spreads and is crouded with Islands, the bottoms contain
Some Scatering cottonwood the Islands also contain timber,
passed a creek1 of running water on the Stard Side about 35
yards wide, and Camped imediately opposite to a Small Creek2
on Lard Side. Came 21 miles to day.
May 29th Wednesday 1805. in the course of last night we were
alarmed by a Buffalow Swimming across from the opposite Shore
& landed opposite the white perogue in which our Captains Stay.
he crossed the perogue, & went with great forse up the bank to
the fire where the men were Sleeping & was within 18 Inches of
their heads when one man setting up alarmed him and he turned
his course along the range of men as they lay, passing between
4 fires & within a fiew Inches of Several mens heads, it was Sup-
posed if he had trod on a man it would have killed him dead,
the dog flew at him which turned him from running against the
lodge, [in] which the officers layd he passed without doeing more
damage than bend a rifle & breaking hir Stalk & injuring one of
the blunderbusses in the perogue as he passed through, we Set
out this morning at the usal hour and proceeded on. at 2| miles
passed the mouth of a river [blank in Ms.] yards3 wide, discharge-
1 Named Thompson’s Creek, for one of the members of the expedition.
It is modern Birch Creek, in eastern Chouteau County.
– Named Bull Creek by (lie explorers, but now known as Dog Creek. It is
in Fergus County, about two miles below Judith River. •
•One hundred yards. Lewis. Clark named the stream Judith’s River,
in honor of thirteen-year-old Julia Hancock of Pincastle, Va., who 2$ years
later was to become liis wife. Happily the name thus bestowed by the gallant
Captain lias been retained by his white successors in this region.
1805] SERGEANT ORDWAY’S JOURNAL 221
ing a great quantity of water, and containing more wood in its
bottom than the Missourie. this river Cap* Lewis walked up a
Short distance and he Saw an old Indian encampment, we Saw
also great encampments on the Stard Side at the mouth of a small
creek of about 100 lodges, which appeared to be about 5 or 6
weeks past, our Indian woman examined their moccasons &. C.
and told us that they were the Indians which resided below the
rockey Mountains, and to the North of the river that hir nation
made their moccasons, differently, at 65 miles passed a consider-
able rapid at which place the hills approach near the river on both
Sides, leave a narrow bottom on the Starbord Side (ash rapid)1
and continue close all day [with] but little timber, we Saw the
remains of a nomber of buffalow which had been drove down a
steep clift of rocks, from appearence their was upwards of 100
of these animels all picked off in a drove, great nombers of wolves
were about this place & verry gentle Cap* Clark killed one of
them with his Sphere [spear], the hills above ash rapid contain
more rocks & coal, and the more rapid points, we come too for
dinner at or opposite the entrance of a Small River2 which falls
in on the Lard Side, & no timber for Some distance, has a bold
running Stream. Soon after we came too it began to rain, and
blew hard, and as we were in a good harbour a point of wood on
the Stard Side, & no timber for Some distance above, induced the
Captains to Stay all night, they gave each man a dram though
Small [it] was enofe to efect Several of the men3 one of the
hunters killed an Elk in the evening Cap1 Clark killed 2 beaver
on the Side of the bank. Some of the hunters who went out on
the high land, said it Snowed & hailed on the hills.
May 30th Thursday 1805. the rain commenced yesterday even-
ing & continued moderately through the course of the night,
more rain has now fallen than we have experenced Since the 15th
of September last, the rain continued this morning, and the wind
too high for us to proceed, untill ab* 11 oClock at which time we
Set out & proceeded on with great labour we were oblidged
to make use of the tow rope & the banks were So muddy & Slippery
that the men could Scarsely walk notwithstanding [this] we
1 Modern Drowned Man’s Rapid, about three miles above the mouth of
Judith River.
2 Arrow River; it forms the boundary, for a portion of its course, between
Fergus and Chouteau counties.
3 “such is the effects of abstaining for some time from the uce of sperituous
liquors; they were all very merry.” Lewis.
222 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS [May 31
proceeded as well as we could, wind hard from the N. W. in
attempting to assend a rapid our toe cord broke of the white
perogue, they turned without injury, those rapids are Shallow
points & are numerous & diffecult one being at the mouth of
every dreen. Some little rain at times all day. one man ascended
the high country & it was raining & Snowing on those high hills,
the day has proved to be raw and cold back from the river is
tollarably level, no timber of any kind on the hills, & only a fiew
Scatering trees of cottonwillows &. C. we discover in many
places old encampments of large bands of Indians, a fiew weeks
past & appear to be makeing up the River, those Indians we
believe to be the Blackfoot Indians or Manetaws [Minitareel
who Inhabit the Country on the heads of the Saskashoarr [Sas-
katchewan] North of this place & trade alitto [a little] in the Fort
Deprare [De Prairie] establishments.1 we Camped in a hand-
som Grove of cotton trees on the Stard. Side.2 River rise \.
Came 8 miles to day.
May 31st Friday 1805. a Cloudy morning, the canoes all
dispached eairly to collect the meat of 2 buffalow killed last
night, the perogues proceeded on it continued to rain moder-
ately untill about 12 oClock when it ceased & continued cloudy,
the Stones on the edges of the river continue to form very con-
siderable rapids we find them difficult to pass, the tow rope
of the white perogue which we were oblidge to make use of
broke & was in Some danger of turning over, we landed at
12 oClock the cap*8 gave the or refreshed the party with a
dram we are oblidged to undergo great labour and fatigue in
ascending this part of the Missourie as they [we] are compelled
from the rapidity of the current in many places to walk in the
water & on Slippery hill sides on the Sides of rocks &. c. on gravel
& thro Stiff mud, bear footed and we cannot keep on moccasons
from the Stiffness of the mud & decline of the Steepp hill sides3
— the hills and river clifTts of this day exhibit a most romantick
appearence on each Side of the river is a white soft sand Stone
bluffs which rises to about half the hight of the hills, on the top
of this Clift is a black earth, on points in many places this
sand Stone appears like antient ruins Some like elegant build-
1 The North West Company’s fort on the site of Edmonton, Alta.
2 In Chouteau County, eight miles above the mouth of Arrow River.
3 Lewis paints a more vivid picture of the hardships of the men, and con-
eludes: “in short their labour is incredibly painfull and great, yet those faith-
full fellows bear it without a murmur.”
1805] SERGEANT ORDWAY’S JOURNAL 223
ings at a distance, Some like Towers &.C. &.C. in many places
of this days march we observe on either Side of the river extro-
ardanary walls of a black semented stone which appear to be
regularly placed one Stone on the other. Some of those walls
rise to the hight of 100 feet, they are from about 9 foot to 12
feet deep or thick and are perpinticular. those walls commence
at the waters edge & in some places meet at right angles those
walls appear to continue thier course into the Sand clifts. the
Stone which for those walls are of different Sizes [are] all Square
edged great nombers has fallen from the walls near the river
which causes causes the wall of unequal hite, in the hollars &
gullies I Saw Some Scrubby ceddr. the low walls Strait White &
handsom, like ancient elegant buildings, towards evening the
country becomes lower and the bottoms wider, no timber on the
uplands, except a fiew ceddr & pine on the clifts. a fiew Scatering
cottonwood trees on the points in the river bottoms. The appear-
ence of coal continues. Cap* Lewis walked on Shore & observed a
Species of pine we had never before Seen, with a Shorter leaf than
common & The burr different, he also collected Some of the Stone
of one of the walls which appears to be a Siment of Sun glass black
earth, we Camped on the Stard Side in a Small timberd handsom
bottom above the mouth of a creek1 on the Stard Side, the hunt-
ers killed 2 animels with big horns. 2 ‘buff alow an Elk & a black
taild or mule deer, we Saw a nomber of those big horned animels
on the clifts. but fiew buffalow or Elk, no antilope, a fiew mule
Deer. Saw a fox to day. the river rises a little it is from 150 to
250 yards wide. Came 18 miles to day.2
June 1st Saturday 1805. a Cloudy morning, we Set out at an
eairly hour and proceeded on as usal with the toe rope, the
country appears to be lower and the clifts not so high or common,
a Mountain or a part of the north Mountain about 8 or 10 miles N.
of this place, more cotton trees scatering along the river & Islands
than yesterday, no timber on the high land. The river from 2 to
400 yards wide & current more jentle than yesterday, but fiew
bad rapids points to day. the wild animels not so pleanty as
below we only killed a ram & mule deer to day. we Saw buffalow
at a distance in the plains, perticularly near a lake on the Lard.
Side about 8 eight miles off from the river, we passed Six Islands and
1 Which they named Stonewall Creek. Now called Eagle Creek, in Chouteau
County.
2 The night’s camp was “just above the mouth” of Eagle Creek. Lewis.
224 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS
Camped on the 7th all night.1 all those Islands are Small but con-
tain Some timber on them. The river riseing a little wind to day
from S. W. Some fiew drops of rain in the morning and also in
the evening, flying clouds all day. Saw Several Indians Camps
made of Sticks & Set up on end and do not appear to be long
evacuated. The roses in full bloom we saw yallow berry, red
berry bushes great nombers wild or choke Cherries, prickly pairs
are in the blossom we Saw great nombers of them. Came 23
miles to day.
June 2nd Sunday 1805. we had a hard wind & a little rain last
night, this morning fair, we Set out at an eairly hour, wind from
S. W. Some little rain to day wind hard a head, the Country
much like that of yesterday, as described. Cap* Lewis walked on
Shore, himself and the hunters killed 6 Elk a bear2 and 2 mule
Deer, and 2 buffalow, which was all in good order a beaver also
killed this evening, passed 9 Islands to day. the current Swift but
regular, we Camped on the Larboard Side at the mouth or at
the forks of the river.3 the current & Sizes of them we could not
examine this evening, a fair night. The Captains took Some
Lunr observations, of moon & Stars. Came 18 miles to day.
1 Five miles, according to Coues, above the mouth of Little Sandy Creek.
The distances given by Lewis and Clark in this portion of their route mater-
ially overrun the M. R. C. map measurements.
2 The bear, a grizzly, undertook to do some killing on its own account. It
came “very near catching Drewyer,” and pursued Charbonneau so hotly that
he was forced to secrete himself “very securely” in some bushes until it was
slain. Lewis.
3 At the mouth of Marias River. For the name given it see post, 228,
note 1. On the problem which its discovery presented to Lewis and Clark for
solution see Ordway’s entry for June 3 and post, 226, note 1.
i hi: t’.u.i.s .,.•>„ /-o/< r.uif-:
THE FALLS AN!) THE PORTAGE ROUTE
Krom the Dublin, 1X17, reprinl of the Biddle History of the Lewis and Clark
Expedition
CHAPTER VIII
From Marias River to the Great Falls, June 3 —
July 14, 1805
June 3rd Monday 1805. we formed a Camp on the point in the
junction of the two rivers, & two canoes & 3 men were dispached
up each river to examine and find if possable which is the most
probable branch, the left fork which is the largest we are doubtful
of. the Indians do not mention any river falling in on the right
in this part of the Missourie Missourie. The Scolding river,1 if
their is Such a one Should have fallen in below agreeable to their
acct8 men were dispached also in different directions by land,
to a mountain covred with Snow to the South. & others up each
river, the Captains walked out & assended the hill in the point,
they observed a level Country to the foot of the mountains which
lye South of this, also a River2 which falls into the Right hand
fork about 1| miles above its mouth on the Larboard Side, this
little river descharges a great deal of water & contains as much
cotton timber in its bottoms as either of the others, they Saw
buffalow & antilopes wild Cherries red & yallow berrys, Goose
berrys &.C. abound in the river bottoms, prickley pairs on the
high plains, the Capts had a meridian altitude and the Latitude
produced was 27° 24' 12" North, the after part of the day proved
Cloudy. Cap* Clark measured each river & found the one to the
Right hand 186 yards wide of water, & the left hand fork 372
yards wide and rapid, the right hand fork falling the other at
a Stand, and clear the right fork and the river which fall into
it is couloured & a little muddy. Several of the party complain of
their feet being Sore by walking in the Sand, & their being cut by
the Stones we to be Sure have a hard time of it oblidged to walk
on Shore & hawl the rope and fo of their time barefooted, in
the evening the parties all returned to Camp had been about 15
1 Milk River; for the name see ante, 209, note 1.
2 "called Rose river." Gass. It is modern Teton River, a considerable
stream which rises in Teton County and flows almost due east to its junction
with Marias River.
225
226 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS [June 4
miles up each river, but could not determine which would be our
most probable branch for our Course &.C. our officers are not
Satisfied in their minds which River will be best to for us to take.
So they determine to leave the crafts & the most of the men here
& go one day & a half up each river with a Small party to find out
which will be the most probable River for us to take &.C the
hunters killed 4 buffalow 3 Elk 3 beaver & Several Deer our
officers Gave Each man a Dram.
June 4th Tuesday 1805. Cap' Lewis and 6 men Set out to go up
the right hand fork. Cap' Clark & 5 more Set out at the Same
time to go up the left hand fork in order to go one day & a halfs
march up the River and see if they can find out which will be our
best River to proceed on. Some of the men at camp killed 2 faun
Elk near the point for their Skins to dress, the day proved
Cloudy. 2 men who had been from Camp a hunting returned to-
wards evening, had killed one Elk & a Deer & Set traps for beaver,
&.C. a fiew drops of rain towards evening & high cold wind from
the North.
Read this entry in modern English AI-translated
As usual. One of the hunters or trappers caught a large beaver last night. About nine o'clock A.M. we passed the mouth of a large creek on the south side and a handsome bottom of cottonwood timber. We proceeded on, passed pitch pine and cedar hills on each side of the river. The river was narrow and crooked. At 11 o'clock we arrived at the mouth of Shell River on the larboard side and formed a camp for the present. The large creek which we passed about 4 miles below on the larboard side we call Blowing Fly Creek, from the immense quantities of those insects which gather on our meat in such numbers that we are obliged to brush them off whatever we eat.
Mussel Shell River falls in on the larboard side, 2,270 miles up. It contains a greater proportion of water than rivers of its size below. Capt Clark (Capt. Clark) measured it and found it to be 110 yards wide. The water is of a greenish yellow color and appears to be navigable for small craft. The natives inform us that this river heads in the first Rocky Mountains and passes through a broken country, its head at no great distance from the Yellowstone River. The country about this river is as described yesterday. Our captains took the meridian altitude and found the latitude to be 47° 0' 24". The Missouri at the mouth of Shell River is 222 yards wide with a small current. The Missouri water is not so muddy as below but retains nearly the usual color, and the sands are principally confined to the points.
Capt Clark killed two deer and an elk. The hunters killed several elk and several deer, merely for the skins to make leggings, etc. Some men were sent out in the direction the country generally — very broken, with some level plains up the Shell River. The bottoms of the Shell River are well timbered, as also a small river which falls into that river on the upper side 5 miles above its mouth. The hills on the larboard side contain scattering pine and cedar but of no great value — small and scrubby. (Came 7 miles today.)
May 21st Tuesday 1805. A beautiful morning, wind from the west, river falling a little. We set out at an early hour and proceeded on in the usual way by the assistance of the cord principally, with little use for the oars and less for the poles, as the bottoms are muddy. We see no great bodies of pure sand; the bars and points are rich mud mixed with fine sand. Capt Clark walked on shore on the starboard side. The river makes a great bend to the south; in a northerly direction is a rich valley which contains some short grass and prickly pears without timber. The country on the south side of the Missouri is high soil and has a mineral appearance as usual, with some scattering pine and red cedar on the hills.
The wind, which blew moderately all the fore part of the day, increased, and about dusk shifted to the N.W. and blew high and stormed all night. Several loose articles were blown overboard. Our camp, which was on a sand bar on the starboard side at the lower point of an island, we were obliged to move under the hills. The dust and sand blew in clouds. The bends of the river are short, and points are covered with cottonwood undergrowth and wild rose bush. Capt Clark killed 2 elk today. Several deer were killed and a buffalo cow. We came 20 miles today.
May 22nd Wednesday 1805. The wind continued to blow so violently hard we did not think it prudent to set out until it lulled a little. About 11 o'clock we set out. The cold. Passed a small island in the bend of the river to the larboard side, and proceeded on. At 5 miles higher we passed an island in a bend to the starboard side, and a creek a short distance above on the starboard side. Capt Lewis (Capt. Lewis) walked on shore and killed a deer in the fore part of the day. After dinner Capt Clark walked out a few miles to view the country, which he found very rich soil producing but little vegetation of any kind except the prickly pears — little grass, and that very bad. A great deal of scattering pine on the larboard side and some few on the starboard side. The mineral production is as described yesterday or in the preceding days. The game is not so abundant as below. The river continues about the same width, with a few sand bars, and the current is more regular. River falls about an inch a day. We camped on the starboard side earlier than we intended on account of saving the oil of a yellow bear which the party killed late this afternoon. Came 16½ miles today. Many of the creeks which appear to have no water near their mouths have streams of running water high up which rise and waste in the sand or gravel. The water of those creeks is so much impregnated with the salt substance that it cannot be drunk with pleasantness.
May 23rd Thursday 1805. A severe frost last night. The thermometer stood at the freezing point this morning. Wind S.W. The water freezes on the oar; ice on the edge of the river. We set out at an early hour and passed the mouth of a creek at 1 mile on the starboard side which heads in a mountain N.W. of its mouth 10 miles. The country on each side is as passed yesterday. Passed 2 small creeks on the starboard and 2 on the larboard side today. A mountain which appears to be 60 or 70 miles long bearing east and west is about 25 miles distant from this river on the starboard side, northerly of us. Passed an island. Capt Clark walked on shore and killed 4 deer, one elk, and a beaver. In the evening we killed a large fat brown or yellow bear, which we unfortunately lost in the river. After being shot, it took the water and was carried under a drift. Passed in the course of this day three islands, two of them covered with tall timber and a third with willows. The after part of this day was warm and the mosquitoes troublesome. Saw but few buffalo, a number of elk and deer, and 5 bear and 2 antelope today. The river is beginning to rise, and the current more rapid than yesterday. In many places we saw spruce on the hillsides. Camped on the starboard side. Came 27 miles today.
May 24th Friday 1805. A cold night. The water in the small vessels froze ⅓ of an inch thick and the thermometer stood this morning at the freezing point. We set out at an early hour and proceeded on. At 9 o'clock we had a breeze of wind from the S.E. which continued all day. This breeze afforded us good sailing. The river is rising fast, current very rapid. Passed several small islands and two large and 2 small creeks. The first of these creeks or small rivers, a mile above our camp, is 30 yards wide and contains water and appears to take its rise in the North Mountain which is situated in a northerly direction about 20 miles distant. One mile higher up a creek falls in on the larboard side opposite a large village of barking squirrels. 3 miles still higher a small creek falls in on the larboard side which is 40 yards wide and has running water. This stream appears to take its rise in the South Mountains which are situated in a southerly direction 30 or 40 miles distant.
Capt Clark walked on the high country on the starboard side, found it broken and dry, with some pine, spruce, and dwarf cedar on the hillsides. One man went 10 miles out; he reported a similarity of country back. Capt Clark killed a fat buffalo a short distance below the place we dined. 2 canoes and 6 men waited and got the best of the meat; they did not join the party this evening. Camped on the larboard side on a point. The cottonwood on this point is beginning to put out a second time, the first being killed by the frost. Came 24½ miles today.
May 25th Saturday 1805. The 2 canoes left for meat did not join us until 8 o'clock this morning, at which time we set out. The morning cool and pleasant; wind ahead all day from the S.W. We passed a creek on the larboard side about 20 yards wide which does not run. We also passed 7 islands. Capt Clark walked on shore and killed a female ibex or bighorned animal, of a blackish or dark dusky color over the body. They have a great resemblance to the deer kind, especially the legs, but the head and hooves resemble a sheep. They are very active and keep frequently on the sides of steep bluffs and places where wolves and bears cannot hurt them. The country on each side is high, broken, and rocky. The rocks are soft sandstone and of a dark brown, hard and rough. The hills also contain coal, etc. The bars in the river are covered with coarse gravel. The bottoms of the river are small. We saw a polecat today, being the first we have seen for a long distance. The air of this country is pure and healthy, and the water of the Missouri fine and cool. Came 18 miles today.
May 26th Sunday 1805. Set out early. Wind from S.W. The river is nearly closed by the high hills on both sides. The country through which the river passes is high, broken, and rocky, generally imbedded with a soft sandstone. Higher up the hills the stones are of a brownish yellow, hard and gritty. Those stones wash into the river down the brooks and cause the shore to be rocky for some distance in the water, which we find troublesome to ascend. There is scarcely any bottom under the hills, and but few trees to be seen on either side except a few pine on the hills. We passed 2 creeks on the starboard side, both of them had running water. In one of them we saw a soft-shell turtle. Capt Lewis in his walk killed a fat buffalo, which we were in want of. The hunters killed 2 mountain rams or bighorned animals. In the evening late we passed a rapid which extended quite across the river; the waves rolled for some distance below. We ascended it by the assistance of the cord and poles except one which with some difficulty got up the larboard side. The crafts all crossed on the starboard side. We saw a doe elk and fawn, which gave rise to the name of Elk and Fawn Riffle. Bluffs on the larboard side, and just over the opposite side is a level plain. We camped a little above in a small grove of cottonwood trees on the larboard side. We had a few drops of rain at dark. The salts, coal, and burnt hills still continue. Game scarcer. This country may with propriety be called the Deserts of North America, for I do not conceive any part of it can ever be settled, as it is deficient in water except this river, and of timber, and is too steep to be tilled. We passed old Indian camps and lodges in the wooded points every day, and 2 at our camp, etc. We came 22¾ miles this day.
May 27th Monday 1805. The wind blew hard from the S.W., which detained us until about 10 o'clock, at which time we set out and proceeded on. Passed a small naked island on the larboard side immediately above the timber in which we camped. The river is very shoaly and the bad places are very numerous. At the mouth of every drain the rocks are thrown some distance into the river, which causes the riffles. This day is very warm. We saw only a few herds of bighorned animals on the hills, and 2 elk, one of which we killed. We camped at 2 dead-top trees on the larboard side. The river is generally about 200 yards wide and the current very swift today, and has a very prosperous fall in all its course. It rises a little. Came 14 miles today.
May 28th Tuesday 1805. A cloudy morning. Some few drops of rain and smoky. Wind from the S.W. We set out at an early hour. The shoaly places are very numerous and some bad to get around. We have to make use of the cords and poles. Our cords are all except one made of elk skin, and they stretch and sometimes break, which endangers the pirogues or canoes, as they immediately turn, and if any rock should chance to be below, the rapidity of the water would turn her over if she should strike. We observe great caution at these places. Capt Clark walked on shore, found the country rugged and as described yesterday. He saw great numbers of the bighorned animals, one of which he killed. Their fawns are nearly half grown. One of the party saw a very large bear. We picked up a pole on the shore which has been made use of by the natives for a lodge pole and hauled by dogs, and it is new and a certain sign of the Indians being on the river above. A football and several other articles are also found to substantiate this opinion. At 1 o'clock we had a few drops of rain and some thunder, which is the first thunder we have had since we set out from Fort Mandan. At 10 miles the hills begin to widen and the river spreads and is crowded with islands. The bottoms contain some scattering cottonwood; the islands also contain timber. Passed a creek of running water on the starboard side about 35 yards wide, and camped immediately opposite to a small creek on the larboard side. Came 21 miles today.
May 29th Wednesday 1805. In the course of last night we were alarmed by a buffalo swimming across from the opposite shore. He landed opposite the white pirogue in which our captains stay. He crossed the pirogue and went with great force up the bank to the fire where the men were sleeping and was within 18 inches of their heads when one man sitting up alarmed him, and he turned his course along the range of men as they lay, passing between 4 fires and within a few inches of several men's heads. It was supposed if he had trodden on a man it would have killed him dead. The dog flew at him, which turned him from running against the lodge in which the officers lay. He passed without doing more damage than bending a rifle and breaking her stock and injuring one of the blunderbusses in the pirogue as he passed through.
We set out this morning at the usual hour and proceeded on. At 2½ miles passed the mouth of a river [blank in Ms.] yards wide, discharging a great quantity of water and containing more wood in its bottom than the Missouri. This river Capt Lewis walked up a short distance and he saw an old Indian encampment. We saw also great encampments on the starboard side at the mouth of a small creek of about 100 lodges, which appeared to be about 5 or 6 weeks past. Our Indian woman examined their moccasins, etc., and told us that they were the Indians which resided below the Rocky Mountains and to the north of the river, and that her nation made their moccasins differently. At 6½ miles passed a considerable rapid at which place the hills approach near the river on both sides, leaving a narrow bottom on the starboard side (Ash Rapid), and continue close all day with but little timber.
We saw the remains of a number of buffalo which had been driven down a steep cliff of rocks. From appearance there were upwards of 100 of these animals, all picked off in a drove. Great numbers of wolves were about this place and very gentle. Capt Clark killed one of them with his spear. The hills above Ash Rapid contain more rocks and coal, and more rapid points. We came to for dinner at or opposite the entrance of a small river which falls in on the larboard side, and no timber for some distance; it has a bold running stream. Soon after we came to, it began to rain and blew hard, and as we were in a good harbor, a point of wood on the starboard side and no timber for some distance above induced the captains to stay all night. They gave each man a dram, though small; it was enough to affect several of the men. One of the hunters killed an elk in the evening. Capt Clark killed 2 beaver on the side of the bank. Some of the hunters who went out on the high land said it snowed and hailed on the hills.
May 30th Thursday 1805. The rain commenced yesterday evening and continued moderately through the course of the night. More rain has now fallen than we have experienced since the 15th of September last. The rain continued this morning, and the wind too high for us to proceed until about 11 o'clock, at which time we set out and proceeded on with great labor. We were obliged to make use of the tow rope, and the banks were so muddy and slippery that the men could scarcely walk. Notwithstanding this, we proceeded as well as we could. Wind hard from the N.W. In attempting to ascend a rapid, our tow cord broke off the white pirogue. They turned without injury. Those rapids are shallow points and are numerous and difficult, one being at the mouth of every drain. Some little rain at times all day. One man ascended the high country, and it was raining and snowing on those high hills. The day has proved to be raw and cold. Back from the river it is tolerably level, no timber of any kind on the hills, and only a few scattering trees of cottonwood, willows, etc. We discover in many places old encampments of large bands of Indians, a few weeks past, and they appear to be making up the river. Those Indians we believe to be the Blackfoot Indians or Minitarees who inhabit the country on the heads of the Saskatchewan north of this place and trade a little at the Fort De Prairie establishments. We camped in a handsome grove of cottonwood trees on the starboard side. River rose ½. Came 8 miles today.
May 31st Friday 1805. A cloudy morning. The canoes were all dispatched early to collect the meat of 2 buffalo killed last night. The pirogues proceeded on. It continued to rain moderately until about 12 o'clock when it ceased and continued cloudy. The stones on the edges of the river continue to form very considerable rapids; we find them difficult to pass. The tow rope of the white pirogue, which we were obliged to make use of, broke and was in some danger of turning over. We landed at 12 o'clock. The captains refreshed the party with a dram. We are obliged to undergo great labor and fatigue in ascending this part of the Missouri, as we are compelled from the rapidity of the current in many places to walk in the water and on slippery hillsides, on the sides of rocks, etc., on gravel and through stiff mud, barefooted; and we cannot keep on moccasins from the stiffness of the mud and decline of the steep hillsides.
The hills and river cliffs of this day exhibit a most romantic appearance. On each side of the river is a white soft sandstone bluff which rises to about half the height of the hills. On the top of this cliff is a black earth. On points in many places this sandstone appears like ancient ruins, some like elegant buildings at a distance, some like towers, etc., etc. In many places of this day's march we observe on either side of the river extraordinary walls of a black cemented stone which appear to be regularly placed one stone on the other. Some of those walls rise to the height of 100 feet. They are from about 9 to 12 feet deep or thick and are perpendicular. Those walls commence at the water's edge, and in some places meet at right angles. Those walls appear to continue their course into the sand cliffs. The stones which form those walls are of different sizes, all square-edged. Great numbers have fallen from the walls near the river, which causes the wall to be of unequal height. In the hollows and gullies I saw some scrubby cedar. The low walls are straight, white, and handsome, like ancient elegant buildings.
Towards evening the country becomes lower and the bottoms wider, no timber on the uplands except a few cedar and pine on the cliffs, a few scattering cottonwood trees on the points in the river bottoms. The appearance of coal continues. Capt Lewis walked on shore and observed a species of pine we had never before seen, with a shorter leaf than common and the burr different. He also collected some of the stone of one of the walls, which appears to be a cement of isinglass and black earth. We camped on the starboard side in a small timbered handsome bottom above the mouth of a creek on the starboard side. The hunters killed 2 animals with big horns, 2 buffalo, an elk, and a black-tailed or mule deer. We saw a number of those bighorned animals on the cliffs, but few buffalo or elk, no antelope, a few mule deer. Saw a fox today. The river rises a little; it is from 150 to 250 yards wide. Came 18 miles today.
June 1st Saturday 1805. A cloudy morning. We set out at an early hour and proceeded on as usual with the tow rope. The country appears to be lower and the cliffs not so high or common. A mountain or a part of the North Mountain is about 8 or 10 miles north of this place. More cottonwood trees scattering along the river and islands than yesterday. No timber on the high land. The river is from 200 to 400 yards wide and current more gentle than yesterday, but few bad rapid points today. The wild animals are not so plenty as below; we only killed a ram and mule deer today. We saw buffalo at a distance in the plains, particularly near a lake on the larboard side about 8 miles off from the river. We passed six islands and camped on the 7th all night. All those islands are small but contain some timber on them. The river is rising a little. Wind today from S.W. Some few drops of rain in the morning and also in the evening. Flying clouds all day. Saw several Indian camps made of sticks and set up on end, and they do not appear to be long evacuated. The roses are in full bloom. We saw yellow berry and red berry bushes in great numbers, wild or choke cherries, prickly pears in blossom. We saw great numbers of them. Came 23 miles today.
June 2nd Sunday 1805. We had a hard wind and a little rain last night. This morning fair. We set out at an early hour, wind from S.W. Some little rain today, wind hard ahead. The country much like that of yesterday, as described. Capt Lewis walked on shore. Himself and the hunters killed 6 elk, a bear, and 2 mule deer, and 2 buffalo, which were all in good order. A beaver was also killed this evening. Passed 9 islands today. The current swift but regular. We camped on the larboard side at the mouth or at the forks of the river. The current and sizes of them we could not examine this evening. A fair night. The captains took some lunar observations of the moon and stars. Came 18 miles today.
June 3rd Monday 1805. We formed a camp on the point at the junction of the two rivers, and two canoes and 3 men were dispatched up each river to examine and find if possible which is the most probable branch. The left fork, which is the largest, we are doubtful of. The Indians do not mention any river falling in on the right in this part of the Missouri. The Scolding River, if there is such a one, should have fallen in below according to their accounts. Men were dispatched also in different directions by land — to a mountain covered with snow to the south, and others up each river.
The captains walked out and ascended the hill in the point. They observed a level country to the foot of the mountains which lie south of this, also a river which falls into the right-hand fork about 1½ miles above its mouth on the larboard side. This little river discharges a great deal of water and contains as much cottonwood timber in its bottoms as either of the others. They saw buffalo and antelope. Wild cherries, red and yellow berries, gooseberries, etc., abound in the river bottoms; prickly pears on the high plains. The captains had a meridian altitude and the latitude produced was 27° 24' 12" North. The after part of the day proved cloudy.
Capt Clark measured each river and found the one to the right hand 186 yards wide of water, and the left-hand fork 372 yards wide and rapid. The right-hand fork was falling, the other at a stand, and clear. The right fork and the river which falls into it are colored and a little muddy. Several of the party complain of their feet being sore from walking in the sand and being cut by the stones. We to be sure have a hard time of it, obliged to walk on shore and haul the rope, and part of their time barefooted. In the evening the parties all returned to camp. They had been about 15 miles up each river, but could not determine which would be our most probable branch for our course, etc. Our officers are not satisfied in their minds which river will be best for us to take. So they determine to leave the crafts and the most of the men here and go one day and a half up each river with a small party to find out which will be the most probable river for us to take, etc. The hunters killed 4 buffalo, 3 elk, 3 beaver, and several deer. Our officers gave each man a dram.
June 4th Tuesday 1805. Capt Lewis and 6 men set out to go up the right-hand fork. Capt Clark and 5 more set out at the same time to go up the left-hand fork, in order to go one day and a half's march up the river and see if they can find out which will be our best river to proceed on. Some of the men at camp killed 2 fawn elk near the point for their skins to dress. The day proved cloudy. 2 men who had been from camp hunting returned towards evening, had killed one elk and a deer, and set traps for beaver, etc. A few drops of rain towards evening, and high cold wind from the north.
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