Multnomah in the Lewis and Clark journals | Lewis & Clark Research Database

Portaging Cascades of the Columbia upstream — John Ordway: April 9, 1806

Mon, 04 May 2026 16:46:02 +0000

bailed our canoes found Some of them to leak loaded up &
about 9 oClock we departed and proceed on along the South Shore
overtook the 2 Fields who had killed nothing about noon Some
of the men killed an eagle, we crossed over to the North Side &
halted at a village2 of the wa-cla-lah nation where we bought 5
or 6 fat dogs, found Cap* Clarks pipe tommahawk which was
stole from him last fall, below Quick Sand River, we took it
from them, they signd that they bought it below and appeared
to be highly afronted at our taking it but were afraid to Show it.
a number of these natives are moveing up to the big Shoote to
fish &C. a number of an other nation overtook us who belong
up near the big falls &C. a large creek puts in close above the
1 In Multnomah County, Ore. nine miles, according to t ho explorers’ reckon-
ing, above the mouth of Washougal River.
« “about a mile above the beacon rock.” Lewis. This, now known :is
Castle Rock, is one of the best-known landmarks on the Columbia. It stands
in a meadow, separated from the adjoining lulls, and rises steeply to a height
of several hundred feet. It is visible from below for a distance of some twenty
miles.
1806] SERGEANT ORDWAY’S JOURNAL 339
village which we did not discover last fall, when we pass’1 down
we dined and proceed on passd Strabury Island where the Swift
water begins, we halted at a village at the foot of the 1st rapid,
on N. Side which was lately erected, we purchased 2 fat dogs
and crossed over to the South Shore and Camped behind [blank
in Ms.] Island1 commenced raining hard & high winds from
N. W. the River much higher at this time than it was last fall
when we passd down. Some Spots of Snow is now on the tops of
these Mountains Near the River.

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Columbia River tidewater, approaching estuary — John Ordway: November 4, 1805

Mon, 04 May 2026 16:45:39 +0000

feet at this place one of the hunters killed a Deer on said Island,
about 7 oClock we set out and proceeded on passed Several
1 The party had reached tidewater on the river. From this point it is a
great tidal stream varying in width from a mile to ten or twelve miles as the
ocean is approached.
2 Modern Sandy River, Multnomah County, Ore.
3 Mt. Hood was now some distance in the rear of the party. It was dis-
covered in 1792 by Lieutenant Broughton, of Vancouver’s expedition, who
named it in honor of the English admiral.
* Which they named Diamond Island; it is modern Government Island, a
few miles above Vancouver, Wash.
308 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS [Nov. 5
large Islands partly covred with cotten timber & partly prarie.
proceeded on about 8 miles came to a large new village on the Lard
side consisting of about 35 Cabbens and have 50 fine canoes they
have considerable of cloaths of different kinds among them, wool
hats &C. we bought several dogs, and some excelent roots
nearly like potatoes1 these Savages killed and brought in Sev-
eral Deer to day. we then went on a Short distance farther &
halted to dine on the Stard Side two canoe loads of Savages fol-
lowed us and Stole Cap1 Clarks pipe tommahawk which he had
been Smoaking with them, we could not find it with them, they
had several muskets on board of their canoes, we then proceeded
on passed Islands the most of the way on the Lard Side and tim-
bred bottoms on each side. Some oak mostly cotton timber
the pine continues back from the River, we passed Several large
villages on each side the natives verry numerous the country
appears good the Soil rich, towards evening we met several
Indians in a handsom canoe which had an Immage on the bow.
one of the Indians could talk & Speak Some words [of] English
Such as curseing and blackguard they had a Sturgeon on board
and have five muskets on board, we discovred a high round
mountain Some distance back from the River on the Stard Side
which is called mount rainy.2 Saw a number of sea otter in the
River, we Came 28 miles this day and Camped after dark on the
Stard Side the geese and brants verry thick.3

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Clark: August 3, 1806

Tue, 10 Feb 2026 20:37:50 +0000

Tueday August 3rd,1806. last night the Musquetors was so troublesom that
no one of the party Slept half the night. for my part I did not Sleep one
hour. those tormenting insects found their way into My beare and tormented
me the whole night. they are not less noumerous or troublesom this
morn-ing. at 2 miles passed the enterance of Jo. Field’s Creek 35 yds wide
imediately above a high bluff which is falling into the river very fast.
on the Side of this bluff I saw Some of the Mountain Bighorn animals. I
assended the hill below the Bluff. the Musquetors were So noumerous that I
could not Shute with any Certainty and therefore Soon returned to the
Canoes. I had not proceeded far before I saw a large gangue of ewes &
yearlins & fawns or lambs of the bighorn, and at a distance alone I
saw a ram. landed and Sent Labeech to kill the ram, which he did kill and
brought him on board. this ram is not near as large as maney I have Seen.
however he is Sufficiently large for a Sample I directed Bratten to Skin
him with his head horns & feet to the Skin and Save all the bone. I
have now the Skin & bone of a Ram a Ewe & a yearlin ram of those
big Horn animals. at 8. A.M. I arived at the junction of the Rochejhone
with the Missouri, and formed my Camp imediately in the point between the
two river at which place the party had all encamped the 26th of
April-1805. at landing I observed Several Elk feeding on the young willows
in the point among which was a large Buck Elk which I shot & had his
flesh dryed in the Sun for a Store down the river. had the Canoes unloaded
and every article exposed to dry & Sun. Maney of our things were wet,
and nearly all the Store of meat which had been killed above Spoiled. I
ordered it to be thrown into the river. Several Skins are also Spoiled
which is a loss, as they are our principal dependance for Clothes to last
us to our homes &c.

The distance from the Rocky Mountains at which place I struck the River
Rochejhone to its enterance into the Missouri 837 Miles 636 Miles of this
distance I decended in 2 Small Canoes lashed together in which I had the
following Persons. John Shields, George Gibson, William Bratten, W.
Labeech, Toust. Shabono his wife & child & my man York. The
Rochejhone or Yellow Stone river is large and navagable with but fiew
obstructions quite into the rocky mountains. and probably near it’s
source. The Country through which it passes from those Mounts. to its
junction is Generaly fertile rich open plains the upper portion of which
is roleing and the high hills and hill Sides are partially covered with
pine and Stoney. The middle portion or from the enterance of Clarks Fork
as low as the Buffalow Shoals the high lands Contain Some Scattering pine
on the Lard. Side. on the Stard. or S. E. Side is Some hills thickly
Supplied with pine. The lower portion of the river but fiew pines are to
be Seen the Country opens into extencive plains river widens and Contains
more islands and bars; of corse gravel sand and Mud. The Current of this
river may be estimated at 4 Miles and 1/2 pr. hour from the Rocky Mts. as
low as Clarks Fork, at 31/2 Miles pr. hour from thence as low as the
Bighorn, at 3Miles pr. hour from thence as low as the Tongue river,
at 23/4 Miles pr. hour from thence as low as Wolf rapid and at 21/2 miles
pr. hour from thence to its enterance into the Missouri

The Colour of the Water differs from that of the Missouri it being of a
yellowish brown, whilst that of the Missouri is of a deep drab Colour
containing a greater portion of mud than the Rochejhone. This delighfull
river from indian information has it’s extreem sources with the North
river in the Rocky mountains on the confines of New Mexico. it also most
probably has it’s westerly sources connected with the Multnomah and those
the main Southerly branch of Lewis’s river while it’s Easterly branches
head with those of Clark’s R. the bighorn and River Platte and may be said
to water the middle portion of the Rocky Mountains from N W to S. E. for
several hundred miles. the indians inform us, that a good road passes up
this river to it’s extreem source from whence it is buta short distance to
the Spanish settlements. there is also a considerable fall on this river
within the mountains but at what distance from it’s source we never could
learn like all other branches of the Missouri which penetrate the Rocky
Mountains all that portion of it lying within those mountains abound in
fine beaver and Otter, it’s streams also which issuing from the rocky
mountain and discharging themselves above Clark’s fork inclusive also
furnish an abundance of beaver and Otter and possess considerable portions
of small timber in their values. to an establishment on this river at
clarks Fork the Shoshones both within and West of the Rocky Mountains
would willingly resort for the purposes of trade as they would in a great
measure be relived from the fear of being attacked by their enimies the
blackfoot Indians and Minnetares of fort de Prarie, which would most
probably happen were they to visit any establishment which could be
conveniently formed on the Missouri. I have no doubt but the same regard
to personal safety would also induce many numerous nations inhabiting the
Columbia and Lewis’s river West of the mountains to visit this
establishment in preference to that at the entrance of Maria’s river,
particularly during the first years of those Western establishments. the
Crow Indians, Paunch Indians Castahanah’s and others East of the mountains
and south of this place would also visit this establishment; it may
therefore be looked to as one of the most important establishments of the
western fur trade. at the entrance of Clark’s fork there is a sufficiency
of timber to support an establishment, an advantage that no position
possesses from thence to the Rocky Mountains. The banks of the yellowstone
river a bold not very high yet are not subject to be overflown, except for
a few miles immediately below where the river issues from the mountain.
the bed of this river is almost entirely composed of loose pebble, nor is
it’s bed interrupted by chains of rock except in one place and that even
furnishes no considerable obstruction to it’s navigation. as you decend
with the river from the mountain the pebble becomes smaller and the
quantity of mud increased untill you reah Tongue river where the pebble
ceases and the sand then increases and predominates near it’s mouth. This
river can be navigated to greater advantage in perogues than any other
craft yet it possesses suficient debth of water for battauxs even to the
mountains; nor is there any of those moving sand bars so formidable to the
navigation of many parts of the Missouri. The Bighorn R and Clark’s fork
may be navigated a considerable distance in perogues and canoes. Tongue
river is also navigable for canoes a considerable distance.

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Lewis: April 29, 1806

Tue, 10 Feb 2026 20:37:14 +0000

Tuesday April 29th 1806. This morning Yellept furnished us with two canoes
and we began to transport our baggage over the river; we also sent a party
of the men over to collect the horses. we purchased some dogs and
shappellell this morning. we had now a store of 12 dogs for our voyage
through the plains. by 11 A.M. we had passed the river with our party and
baggage but were detained several hours in consequence of not being able
to collect our horses. our guide now informed us that it was too late in
the evening to reach an eligible place to encamp; that we could not reach
any water before night. we therefore thought it best to remain on the
Wallahwollah river about a mile from the Columbia untill the morning, and
accordingly encamped on that river near a fish wear. this wear consists of
two curtains of small willow switches matted together with four lines of
withs of the same materials extening quite across the river, parrallel
with eah other and about 6 feet assunder. those are supported by several
parsels of poles placed in the manner before discribed of the fishing
wears. these curtains of willow are either roled at one end for a few feet
to permit the fish to pass or are let down at pleasure. they take their
fish which at present are a mullet only of from one to five lbs., with
small seines of 15 or 18 feet long drawn by two persons; these they drag
down to the wear and raise the bottom of the seine against the willow
curtain. they have also a small seine maniaged by one person it bags in
the manner of the scooping net; the one side of the net is confined to a
simicircular bow of half the size of a man’s arm and about 5 feet long;
the other side is confined to a strong string which being attatched to the
extremities of the bow forms the cord line to the simicircle. The
Wallahwollah river discharges itself into the Columbia on it’s S. side 15
miles below the entrance of Lewis’s river or the S. E. branch. a high
range of hills pass the Columbia just below the entrance of this river.
this is a handsome stream about 41/2 feet deep and 50 yds. wide; it’s bed
is composed of gravel principally with some sand and mud; the banks are
abrupt but not high, tho it dose not appear to overflow; the water is
clear. the indians inform us that it has it’s surces in the range of
mountains in view of us to the E and S. E. these mountains commence a
little to the south of Mt. Hood and extending themselves in a N.
Eastwardly direction terminate near a Southen branch of Lewis’s river
short of the Rocky mountains. The Towannahiooks river, river LaPage and
the Wollah-wollah rivers all take their rise on the N side of these
mountains; two principal branches of the first of these take their rise in
Mountains Jefferson and hood. these mountains are covered with snow at
present tho do not appear high; they seperate the waters of the Multnomah
from those of the Columbia river. they appear to be about 65 or 70 miles
distant from hence. The Snake indian prisoner informed us that at some
distance in the large plains to the South of those mountains there was a
large river runing to the N. W. which was as wide as the Columbia at this
place which is nearly one mile. this account is no doubt some what
exagerated but it serves to evince the certainty of the Multnomah being a
very large river and that it’s waters are seperated from the Columbia by
those mountains and that with the aid of a southwardly branch of Lewis’s
river which passes arrond the eastern extremity of those mountains, it
must water that vast tract of country extending from those mountains to
the waters of the gulph of California. and no doubt it heads with the
Yellowstone river and the del Nord. we gave small medals to two inferior
cheifs of this nation and they each presented us a fine horse in return we
gave them sundry articles and among others one of my case pistols and
several hundred rounds of amunition. there are 12 other lodges of the
Wollahwollah nation on this river a little distance below our camp. 12
these as well as those beyond the Columbia appear to depend on this
fishing wear for their subsistence. these people as well as the Chymnahpos
are very well dressed, much more so particularly their women than they
were as we decended the river last fall most of them have long shirts and
leggings, good robes and mockersons. their women wear the truss when they
cannot procure the shirt, but very few are seen with the former at this
moment. I presume the success of their winters hunt has produced this
change in their attire. they all cut their hair in their forehead and most
of the men wear the two cews over each sholder in front of the body; some
have the addition of a few small plats formed of the earlocks and others
tigh a small bundle of the docked foretop in front of the forehead. their
ornaments are such as discribed of the nations below and are woarn in a
similar manner. they insisted on our dancinq this evening but it rained a
little the wind blew hard and the weather was cold, we therefore did not
indulge them.

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Clark: April 29, 1806

Tue, 10 Feb 2026 20:37:13 +0000

Tuesday April 29th 1806 This Morning Yelleppit furnished us with 2 Canoes,
and We began to transport our baggage over the river; we also Sent a party
of the men over to collect our horses. we purchased Some deer and
chappellell this morning. we had now a Store of 12 dogs for our voyage
through the plains. by 11 A.M. we had passed the river with our party and
baggage but were detained Several hours in consequence of not being able
to Collect our horses. our guide now informed us that it was too late in
the evening to reach an eligible place to encamp; that we Could not reach
any water before night. we therefore thought it best to remain on the
Wallah wallah river about a mile from the Columbia untill the morning,
accordingly encampd on the river near a fish Wear. this weare Consists of
two Curtains of Small willows wattled together with four lines of withes
of the Same Materials extending quite across the river, parralal with each
other and about 6 feet asunder. those are Supported by Several parrelals
of poles placed in this manner those Curtains of willows is either roled
at one end for a fiew feet to permit the fish to pass or are let down at
pleasure. they take their fish which at present are a Mullet only of from
one to 5 pounds Wt. with Small Seines of 15 or 18 feet long drawn by two
persons; these they drag down to the Wear and rase the bottom of the seine
against the willow Curtain. they have also a Small Seine managed by one
person, it bags in the manner of the Scooping Nets; the one Side of the
Net is Confined to a Simicircular bow of half the Size of a mans arm and
about 5 feet long, the other Side is confined to a Strong String which
being attatched to the extremities of the bow forms the Cord line to the
Simicurcle. The Wallah wallah River discharges it’s Self into the Columbia
on it’s South Side 15 miles below the enterance of Lewis’s River, or the
S. E. branch. a range of hills pass the Columbia just below the enterance
of this river. this is a handsom Stream about 41/2 feet deep and 50 yards
wide; it’s bead is composed of gravel principally with Some Sand and Mud;
the banks are abrupt but not high, tho it does not appear to overflow; the
water is Clear. the Indians inform us that it has it’s Source in the range
of Mountains in view of us to the E. and S. E. these Mountains commence a
little to the South of Mt. Hood and extend themselves in a S Eastwardly
direction terminateing near the Southern banks of Lewis’s river Short of
the rockey Mountains. Ta wan nahiooks river, river Lapage and ____ River
all take their rise on those Mountains. the two principal branches of the
first of those take their rise in the Mountain’s, Jefferson and Hood.
those Mountains are Covered at present with Snow. those S W. Mountains are
Covered with Snow at present tho do not appear high. they Seperate the
Waters of the Multnomah from those of the Columbia river. they appear to
be 65 or 70 miles distant from hence. The Snake indian prisoner informed
us that at Some distance in the large plains to the South of those
Mountains there was a large river running to the N. W. which was as wide
as the Columbia at this place, which is nearly 1 mile. this account is no
doubt Somewhat exagurated but it Serves to evince the Certainty of the
Multnomah being a very large River and that it’s waters are Seperated from
the Columbia by those Mountains, and that with the aid of a Southwardly
branch of Lewis’s river which pass around the Eastern extremity of those
mountains, it must water that vast tract of Country extending from those
Mountains to the Waters of the Gulf of Callifornia. and no doubt it heads
with the Rochejhone and Del Nord.

We gave Small Medals to two inferior Chiefs of this nation, and they each
furnished us with a fine horse, in return we gave them Sundery articles
among which was one of Capt Lewis’s Pistols & Several hundred rounds
of Amunition. there are 12 other Lodges of the Wallahwallah Nation on this
river a Short distance below our Camp. those as well as those beyond the
Columbia appear to depend on their fishing weres for their Subsistance.
those people as well as the Chym na poms are very well disposed, much more
So particular their women than they were when we decended the river last
fall. Most of them have long Shirts and leggins, good robes and
Mockersons. their women were the truss when they Cannot precure the Shirt,
but very fiew are Seen with the former at the present. I prosume the
Suckcess of their Winters hunt has produced this change in their attere.
they all Cut their hair in the fore head, and most of the men ware the two
Cews over each Sholder in front of the body; Some have the addition of a
fiew Small plats formed of the eare locks, and others tigh a Small bundle
of the docked foretop in front of the fore head. their orniments are Such
as discribed of the nativs below, and are worn in a Similar manner. they
insisted on our danceing this evening but it rained a little the wind blew
hard and the weather was Cold, we therefore did not indulge them.Several
applyed to me to day for medical aides, one a broken arm another inward
fever and Several with pains across their loins, and Sore eyes. I
administered as well as I could to all. in the evining a man brought his
wife and a horse both up to me. the horse he gave me as a present. and his
wife who was verry unwell the effects of violent Coalds was placed before
me. I did not think her Case a bad one and gave Such medesine as would
keep her body open and raped her in flannel. left Some Simple Medesene to
be taken. we also gave Some Eye water 1 G. of Ela v V. & 2 grs. of
Sacchm Stry. to an ounce of water and in that perpotion. Great No. of the
nativs about us all night.

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Clark: April 20, 1806

Tue, 10 Feb 2026 20:37:10 +0000

April 20th 1806 This morning very Cold hills covered with Snow. I Showed
the nativs what I had to give for their horses and attempted to purchase
them. they informed me that they would not Sell any horses to me, that
their horses were at a long ways off and they would not trade them. my
offer was a blue robe, Callico Shirt, a handkerchef, 5 parcels of paint a
Knife, a wampom moon 4 braces of ribin, a pice of Brass and about 6 braces
of yellow heeds; and to that amount for what I had I also offered my large
blue blanket for one, my Coat Sword & Plume none of which Seem to
entice those people to give horses if they had any. they Set in their huts
which is of mats Supported on poles without fire. at night when they wish
a light they burn dry Straw & Some fiew Small dry willows. they Speak
defferent from those below, have but little to eate. Some roots &
Dryed fish is to be found in their houses. I am half frozed at this
inhospitable Village which is moved from its position above the falls to
one below and Contains 19 large houses, a village is also established on
the other Side imedeately above the falls. all the natives who was
established above the Falls for Some distance has removed Those people are
much better dressed than they were at the time we went down the river.
They have all new, Deer, Elk, Ibex Goat & wolf Skin robes, their
Children also the large squirel Skin robes, maney of them have Legins and
mockersons, all of which they precure of the Indians at a distance in
exchange for their pounded fish & Beeds, they also purchase Silk
grass, of which they make their nets & Sales for takeing fish they
also purchase Bear grass and maney other things for their fish. those
people gave me roots and berries prepared in different ways for which I
gave some Small articles in return.-Great numbers of Skiming knets on
their houses. Those people are Pore and Kind durty & indolt. They ware
their hair loose flowing the men cut in the foward which the Skilloots do
not &c. &c.

I could not precure a Single horse of those people, dureing this day at
any price, they offered me 2 for 2 kittles of which we Could not spear. I
used every artifice decent & even false Statements to enduce those
pore devils to Sell me horses. in the evening two different men offered to
Sell me three horses which they informed me was a little distance off and
they would bring them imediately. those two persons as I found went
imediately off up the river to their tribe without any intention to find
or Sell their horses. a little before Sunset 3 men arived from Some
distance above and informed me that they Came to See me. at Sunset finding
no probability of Capt Lewis arival, packed up the articles and took them
into the lodge in which I lay last night. Great numbers of those people
geathered around me to Smoke. I gave them 2 pipes and lay down in the back
part of the house with Sgt. P. & the men with our arms in a Situation
as to be ready in case of any alarm. those pore people appear entirely
harmlessI purchased a dog and Some wood with a little pounded fish
and Chappaless. made a fire on the rocks and Cooked the dogs on which the
men breckfast & Dined. wind hard all day cold from N W.

—

Sunday 20th April 1806 a very cold morning the western mountains Covered
with Snow I Shewed the Eneshers the articles I had to give for their
horses. they without hezitation informed me that they would not Sell me
any for the articles I had, if I would give them Kitties they would let me
have horses, and not without. that their horses were at a long ways off in
the planes and they would not Send for them &c. my offer was a blue
robe, a Calleco Shirt, a Silk handkerchief, 5 parcels of paint, a knife, a
Wampom moon, 8 yards of ribon, Several pieces of Brass, a mockerson awl
and 6 braces of yellow beeds; and to that amount for each horse which is
more than double what we gave either the Sohsohne or first flat heads we
met with on Clarks river I also offered my large blue blanket, my Coat
Sword & plume none of which Seamed to entice those people to Sell
their horses. not with standing every exertion not a Single horse Could be
precured of those people in the Course of the day. Those people are much
better Clad than they were last fall, their men have generally legins
mockersons and large robes. maney of them ware Shirts of the Same form of
those of the Chopunnish and Shoshone highly ornimented with porcupine
quills. the dress of their winen differs verry little from those above the
great rapids. their Children have Small robes of the Squirel Skins. those
of the men & women are principally deer, Some elk, wolf, Ibix &
buffalow which they precure from distant nations who purchase their
Pounded fish in exchange for those robes & Beeds. The principal
village of the Enesher nation is imedeately below the falls on the N.
Side. one other village of the Same nation above the falls on the opposit
Side and one other a few miles above on the North Side.The Houses
of those people like the Skillutes have the flores of their Summer
dwelling on the Surface of the earth in Sted of those Sellers in which
they resided when we passed them last fall. those houses are Covered with
mats and Straw are large and Contain Several families each. I counted 19
at this Village & 11 on the opposit Side. those people are pore durty
haughty. they burn Straw and Small willows. have but little to eate and
deer with what they have. they precure the Silk grass of which they make
their nets, the bear grass for makeing their mats and Several other
necessary of the Indians of the following nations who trade with them as
also the Skillutes for their pounded fish. Viz. Skad-dats, Squan-nun-os,
Shan-wappoms, Shall-lat-tos, who reside to the north and Several bands who
reside on the Columbia above.I precured a Sketch of the Columbia
and its branches of those people in which they made the river which falls
into the Columbia imediately above the falls on the South Side to branch
out into 3 branches one of which they make head in Mt.jefferson, one in
mount Hood and the other in the S W. range of Mountains and does not water
that extensive Country we have heretofore Calculated on. a great portion
of that extensive tract of Country to the S. and S. W. of the Columbia and
Lewis’s river and between the Same and the waters of Callifornia must be
watered by the Multnomah river.See Sketch in the latter part of
this book (No. 5). Those people are great jokies and deciptfull in trade.

at Sunset finding that Capt Lewis would not arrive this evening as I
expected, I packed up all the articles which I had exposed, at a Situation
I had pitched on to Encamp, and at which place we had bought as maney
fishing poles as made a fire to Cook a dog which I had purchased for the
men to eate, and returned to the lodge which I had Slept in last night.
great number gathered around me to Smoke, I gave them two pipes, and then
lay my self down with the men to Sleep, haveing our merchendize under our
heads and guns &c in our arms, as we always have in Similar Situations

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Lewis: April 14, 1806

Tue, 10 Feb 2026 20:37:08 +0000

Monday April 14th 1806. This morning at seven oCk. we were joined by
Sergt. Pryor and the three hunters they brought with them 4 deer which
Drewyer had killed yesterday. we took breakfast and departed. at 9 A.M.
the wind arrose and continued hard all day but not so violent as to
prevent our proceeding. we kept close along the N. shore all day. the
river from the rapids as high as the commencement of the narrows is from
1/2 to 3/4 of a mile in width, and possesses scarcely any current. the bed
is principally rock except at the entrance of Labuish’s river which heads
in Mount hood and like the quicksand river brings down from thence vast
bodies of sand. the mountains through which the river passes nearly to the
sepulchre rock, are high broken, rocky, partially covered with fir white
cedar, and in many places exhibit very romantic seenes. some handsome
cascades are seen on either hand tumbling from the stupendious rocks of
the mountains into the river. near the border of the river I observed
today the long leafed pine. this pine increases in quantity as you ascend
the river and about the sepulchre rock where the lower country commences
it superceedes the fir altogether. throughout the whole course of this
river from the rapids as high as the Chilluckkittequaws, we find the
trunks of many large pine trees sanding erect as they grew at present in
30 feet water; they are much doated and none of them vegetating; at the
lowest tide of the river many of these trees are in ten feet water.
certain it is that those large pine trees never grew in that position, nor
can I account for this phenomenon except it be that the passage of the
river through the narrow pass at the rapids has been obstructed by the
rocks which have fallen from the hills into that channel within the last
20 years; the appearance of the hills at that place justify this opinion,
they appear constantly to be falling in, and the apparent state of the
decayed trees would seem to fix the era of their decline about the time
men-tioned. at 1 P.M. we arrived at a large village situated in a narrow
bottom on the N. side a little above the entrance of canoe creek. their
houses are reather detatched and extent for several miles. they are about
20 in number. These people call themselves We-ock-sock, Wil-lacum. they
differ but litte in appeance dress &c. from those of the rapids. Their
men have some leging and mockersons among them. these are in the stile of
Chopunnish. they have some good horses of which we saw ten or a douzen.
these are the fist horses we have met with since we left this
neighbourhood last fall, in short the country below this place will not
permit the uce of this valuable animal except in the Columbian vally and
there the present inhabitants have no uce for them as they reside
immediately on the river and the country is too thickly timbered to admit
them to run the game with horses if they had them. we halted at this
village and dined. purchased five dogs some roots, shappalell, filberds
and dryed burries of the inhabitants. here I observed several habitations
entirely under grownd; they were sunk about 8 feet deep and covered with
strong timber and several feet of earth in a conic form. these habitations
were evacuated at present. they are about 16 feet in diameter, nearly
circular, and are entered through a hole at the top which appears to
answer the double purpose of a chimney and a door. from this entrance you
decend to the floor by a ladder. the present habitations of these people
were on the surface of the ground and do not differ from those of the
tribes of the rapids. their language is the same with that of the
Chilluckkittequaws. these people appeared very friendly. some of them
informed us that they had lately returned from a war excurtion against the
snake indians who inhabit the upper part of the Multnomah river to the S.
E. of them. they call them To-wannah’-hi’-ooks. that they had been
fortunate in their expedition and had taken from their enimies most of the
horses which we saw in their possession. after dinner we pursued our
voyage; Capt. Clark walked on shore with Charbono. I ascended the river
about six miles at which place the river washed the base of high clifts on
the Lard. side, here we halted a few minutes and were joined by Capt. C.
and Charbono and proceeded on to the entrance of a small run on N. side a
little below a large village on the same side opposite the sepulchre rock.
this village can raise about an hundred fighting men they call themselves.
they do not differ in any rispect from the village below. many of them
visited our camp this evening and remained with us untill we went to bed.
they then left us and retired to their quarters.-

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Lewis: April 16, 1806

Tue, 10 Feb 2026 20:37:08 +0000

Wednesday April 16th 1806. About 8 A.M. Capt. Clark passed the river with
the two interpreters, the indian woman and nine men in order to trade with
the natives for their horses, for which purpose he took with him a good
part of our stock of merchandize. I remained in camp; sent out the hunters
very early in the morning, and set Sergts. Gass and Pryor with some others
at work to make a parsel of packsaddles. twelve horses will be sufficient
to transport our baggage and some pounded fish which we intend taking with
us as a reserved store for the rocky mountains. I was visited today by
several of the natives, and amused myself in making a collection of the
esculent plants in the neighbourhood such as the Indians use, a specemine
of which I preserved. I also met with sundry other plants which were
strangers to me which I also preserved, among others there is a currant
which is now in blume and has yellow blossom something like the yellow
currant of the Missouri but is a different speceis. Reubin Feilds returned
in the evening and brought with him a large grey squrrel and two others of
a kind I had never before seen. they are a size less than the grey
squirrel common to the middle atlantic states and of a pided grey and
yellowish brown colour, in form it resembles our grey squrrel precisely. I
had them skined leaving the head feet and tail to them and placed in the
sun to dry. Joseph Feilds brought me a black pheasant which he had killed;
this I found on examination to be the large black or dark brown pheasant I
had met with on the upper part of the Missouri. it is as large as a well
grown fowl the iris of the eye is of a dark yellowish brown, the puple
black, the legs are booted to the toes, the tail is composed of 18 black
feathers tiped with bluish white, of which the two in the center are
reather shorter than the others which are all of the same length. over the
eye there is a stripe of a 1/4 of an inch in width uncovered with feathers
of a fine orrange yellow. the wide spaces void of feathers on the side of
the neck are also of the same colour. I had some parts of this bird
preserved. our present station is the last point at which there is a
single stick of timber on the river for a great distance and is the
commencement of the open plains which extend nearly to the base of the
rocky Mts. Labuish returned this evening having killed two deer I sent and
had them brought in. this evening Capt. C. informed me by some of the men
whom he sent over that that he had obtained no horses as yet of the
natives. that they promised to trade with him provided he would remove to
their vil-lage. to this he had consented and should proceede to the
Skillute village above the long narrows as soon as the men returned whom
he had sent to me for some other articles. I dispatched the men on their
return to capt. C. immediately with these articles and he set out with his
party accompanyed by the natives to their village where he remained all
night.the natives who had spent the day with me seemed very well
disposed, they left me at 6 in the evening and returned to their
rispective villages. the hunters informed me that they saw some Antelopes,
& the tracks of several black bear, but no appearance of any Elk. we
were informed by the Indians that the river which falls in on the S. side
of the Columbia just above the Eneshur village heads in Mount hood and
dose not water the extensive country which we have heretofore calculated
on. a great portion of that extensive tract of country to the S. and S. W.
of the Columbia and it’s S. E. branch, and between the same and the waters
of Callifornia must be watered by the Multnomah river.-

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Clark: April 14, 1806

Tue, 10 Feb 2026 20:37:07 +0000

Monday April 14th 1806 This morning at 7 oClock we were joined by Sgt.
Pryor and they three hunters they brought with them 4 deer which drewyer
had killed yesterday. we took brackfast and departed at 9 A.M. the wind
rose and Continued to blow hard all day but not so violent as to prevent
our proceeding. we kept Close allong the N. Shore all day. the river from
the rapids to the Commencement of the narrows is from 1/2 to 3/4 of a Mile
in wedth, and possesses but little Current. the bead is rock except at the
enterence of Labiech’s river which heads in Mt. Hood and like the quick
Sand River brings down from thence Vast bodies of Sand the Mountains
through which the river passes nearly to Cataract River are high broken
rocky, particularly Covered with fir and white Cedar, and in maney places
very romantic scenes. Some handsom Cascades are Seen on either Side
tumbling from the Stupendious rocks of the mountains into the river. I
observe near the river the long leafed Pine which increas as we assend and
Superseeds the fir altogether about the Sepulchre rock. We find the trunks
of maney large pine trees Standing erect as they grew, at present in 30
feet water; they are much doated and none of them vegitateing. at the
lowest water of the river maney of those trees are in 10 feet water. the
Cause I have attempted to account for as I decended. at 1 P M. we arrived
at a large village Situated in a narrow bottom on the N. Side a little
above the enterance of Canoe Creek. their houses are reather detached, and
extend for Several Miles. they are about 20 in number. those people Call
themselves Wil-la-cum. they differ but little in appearance dress &c.
from those of the rapids. their men have Some legins and mockersons among
them. those are in the Stile of Chopunnish. they have Some good horss of
which we Saw 10 or 12 these are the first horses we have met with Since we
left this neighbourhood last fall in Short the Country below this place
will not permit the use of this valuable animal except in the Columbian
vally, and there the present inhabitents have no use for them as they
reside imediately on the river and the Country is too thickly timbd. We
halted at this village Dined and purchased five dogs, Some roots
Chappalell, Philberds and dried berries of the inhabitents. here I
observed Several habitations under ground; they were Sunk about 8 feet
deep and covered with Strong timber and Several feet of earth in a conic
form. those habitations are avacuated at present. they are about 16 feet
diamieter, nearly Circular, and are entered through a hole at top which
appears to answer the double purpose of a Chimney and a dore. from this
enterance you decend to the flore by a ladder. the present habitations of
those people were on the Surface of the ground and do not differ from
those of the tribes about the Rapids. their language is the Same with the
Che luck kit to quaws. these people appeared very friendly. Some of them
informed us that they had latterly returned from the War excurtion against
the Snake Indians who inhabit the upper part of the Multnomah river to the
S. E. of them they Call them To wan nah hi ooks. that they had been
fortunate in the expidition and had taken from their enimies most of the
horses which we Saw in their possession. after dinner we proceeded on our
voyage. I walked on Shore with Shabono on the N. Side through a handsom
bottom. met Several parties of women and boys in Serch of herbs &
roots to Subsist on maney of them had parcels of the Stems of the
Sunflower. I joined Capt Lewis and the party at 6 miles, at which place
the river washed the bottom of high Clifts on the N. Side. Several Canoes
over take us with families moveing up. we passed 3 encampments and came
too in the mouth of a Small Creek on the N. Side imediately below a
village and opposit the Sepulchar rock. this village Consists of about 100
fighting men of Several tribes from the plains to the North Collected here
waiting for the Salmon. they do not differ in any respect from those
below. many of them visited our Camp this evening and remaind. with us
untill we went to bead. they then left us and returned to their quarters.
made ____ miles.

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Lewis: April 9, 1806

Tue, 10 Feb 2026 20:37:06 +0000

Wednesday April 9th 1806. This morning early we commenced the operation of
reloading our canoes; at 7 A.M. we departed and proceeded on to the Camp
of Reubin and Joseph Fields they had not killed any game; we made no halt
at this place but continued our rout to the Wah-clel-lah Village which is
situated on the North side of the river about a mile below the beacon
rock; here we halted and took breakfast. John Colter one of our party
observed the tomehawk in one of the lodges which had been stolen from us
on the 4th of November last as we decended this river; the natives
attempted to wrest the tomahawk from him but he retained it. they
indeavoured afterwards to exculpate themselves from the odium of having
stolen it, they alledged that they had bought it from the natives below;
but their neighbours had several days previously, informed us that these
people had stolen the Tommehawk and then had it at their village. this
village appears to be the winter station of the Wah-clel-lahs and
Clahclellars, the greater part of the former have lately removed to the
falls of the Multnomah, and the latter have established themselves a few
miles above on the North side of the river opposite the lower point of
brant island, being the commencement of the rapids, here they also take
their salmon; they are now in the act of removing, and not only take with
them their furniture and effects but also the bark and most of the boards
which formed their houses. 14 houses remain entire but are at this time
but thinly inhabited, nine others appear to have been lately removed, and
the traces of ten or twelve others of ancient date were to be seen in the
rear of their present village. they sometimes sink their houses in the
earth, and at other times have their floors level with the surface of the
earth; they are generally built with boards and covered with Cedar bark.
most of them have a devision in their houses near the entrance wich is at
the end or in the event of it’s bing a double house is from the center of
a narrow passage. several families inhabit one appartment. the women of
these people pierce the cartelage of the nose in which they wear various
ornaments in other rispects they do not differ from those in the
neighbourhood of the Diamond island; tho most of the women brad their hair
which hanges in two tresses one hanging over each ear. these people were
very unfriendly, and seemed illy disposed had our numbers not detered them
any acts of violence. with some difficuly we obtained five dogs from them
and a few wappetoe. on our way to this village we passed several
beautifull cascades which fell from a great hight over the stupendious
rocks which cloles the river on both sides nearly, except a small bottom
on the South side in which our hunters were encamped. the most remarkable
of these casscades falls about 300 feet perpendicularly over a solid rock
into a narrow bottom of the river on the south side. it is a large creek,
situated about 5 miles above our encampment of the last evening. several
small streams fall from a much greater hight, and in their decent become a
perfect mist which collecting on the rocks below again become visible and
decend a second time in the same manner before they reach the base of the
rocks. the hills have now become mountains high on each side are rocky
steep and covered generally with fir and white cedar. we saw some turkey
buzzards this morning of the speceis common to the United states which are
the first we have seen on this side the rocky mountains. during our halt
at this village the grand Cheif and two inferior Cheifs of the
Chil-luck-kit-to-quaw nation arrived with several men and women of their
nation in two large canoes. these people were on their return up the
river, having been on a trading voyage to the Columbean vally, and were
loaded with wappetoe dryed anchovies, with some beads &c which they
had received in exchange for dryed and pounded salmon shappelell beargrass
&c. These people had been very kind to us as we decended the river we
therefore smoked with them and treated them with every attention. at 2
P.M. we renewed our voyage; passed under the beacon rock on the north
side, to the left of two small islands situated near the shore. at four
P.M. we arrived at the Clah-clel-lah village; here we found the natives
busily engaged in erecting their new habitations, which appear to be
reather of a temperary kind; it is most probable that they only reside
here during the salmon season. we purchased two dogs of these people who
like those of the village blow were but sulky and illy disposed; they are
great rogues and we are obliged to keep them at a proper distance from our
bag-gage. as we could not ascend the rapid by the North side of the river
with our large canoes, we passed to the oposite side and entered the
narrow channel which seperates brant Island from the South shore; the
evening being far spent and the wind high raining and very cold we thought
best not to attempt the rapids this evening, we therefore sought a safe
harbour in this narrow channel and encamped on the main shore. our small
canoe with Drewer and the two feildses was unable to pass the river with
us in consequence of the waves they therefore toed her up along the N.
side of the river and encamped opposite the upper point of brant Island.
after halting this evening I took a turn with my gun in order to kill a
deer, but was unsuccessfull. I saw much fresh sign. the fir has been
lately injured by a fire near this place and many of them have discharged
considerable quantities of rozin. we directed that Collins should hunt a
few hours tomorrow morning and that Gibson and his crew should remain at
his place untill we returned and employ themselves in collectng rozin
which our canoes are now in want of.

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