Journal Entry

Clark: June 18, 1805

June 18, 1805
Great Falls of the Missouri
AI Summary

Clark's party set out early and reached the second great cataract of the Missouri, a 47-foot-8-inch falls he considered one of the grandest sights in nature, measuring it and the river's 473-yard width. They visited an enormous clear blue spring, then continued past more rapids to a 26-foot-5-inch fall and another 20-foot drop. They killed buffalo from large herds crossing the river, dined opposite the Medicine River's mouth, and camped on the Missouri. That evening, a white bear attacked party member Willard, who escaped with help; the men also killed beaver and elk.

June 18th Tuesday 1805 we Set out early and arrived at the second great
Cataract at about 200 yds above the last of 19 feet pitchthis is
one of the grandest views in nature and by far exceeds any thing I ever
Saw, the Missouri falling over a Shelveing rock for 47 feet 8 Inches with
a Cascade &c of 14 feet 7 Inches above the Shoot for a 1/4 mile I
decended the Clift below this Cateract with ease measured the hight of the
purpendicular fall of 47 feet 8 Inches at which place the river is 473
yards wide as also the hight of the Cascade &c. a continuel mist quite
across this fall* after which we proceeded on up the river a little more
than a mile to the largest fountain or Spring I ever Saw, and doubt if it
is not the largest in America Known, this water boils up from under th
rocks near the edge of the river and falls imediately into the river 8
feet and keeps its Colour for 1/2 a mile which is emencely Clear and of a
bluish Cast, proceeded on up the river passed a Succession of rapids to
the next great fall of 26 Ft. 5 I. river 580 yards wide this fall is not
intirely perpdincular a Short bench gives a Curve to the water as it falls
a butifull Small Island at the foot of this fall near the Center of the
Channel Covered with trees, the Missouri at this fall is 36 yards wide, a
Considerable mist rises at this fall ocasionally, from this pitch to the
head of the rapids is one mile & has a fall of 20 feet, this is also a
handsome Scenery a fall in an open leavel plain, after takeing the hight
& measureing the river proceeded on, Saw a gange of Buffalow Swiming
the river above the falls, Several of which was drawn in to the rapids and
with dificuelty mad Shore half drowned, we killed one of those Cows &
took as much meat as we wished. emence herds of those animals in every
direction, passed 2 groves in the Point just above the rapids & dined
in one opposit the mouth of Medison River, which fails in on the Stard.
Side and is 137 yards wide at its mouth the Missouri above is 800 yards
wide, as the river Missouri appears to bear S Easterley I assended about 4
miles high to a Creek which appeared to head in South mountains passed a
Island of ____ and a little timber in an Easterly bend at 1 mile, passed
Some timber in a point at 2 mile at or near the lower point of a large
Island on which we Shot at a large white bear. passed a Small Island in
the middle and one close on the Lard Shore at 3 miles behind the head of
which we Camped. those 3 Islands are all opposit, Soon after we Camped two
ganges of Buffalow crossed one above & the other below we killed 7 of
them & a calf and Saved as much of the best of the meat as we could
this evening, one man A Willard going for a load of meat at 170 yards
distance on an Island was attact by a white bear and verry near being
Caught, prosued within 40 yards of Camp where I was with one man I
collected 3 others of the party and prosued the bear (who had prosued my
track from a buffalow I had killed on the Island at about 300 yards
distance and chance to meet Willard) for fear of his attacking one man
Colter at the lower point of the Island, before we had got down the bear
had allarmed the man and prosued him into the water, at our approach he
retreated, and we relieved the man in the water, I Saw the bear but the
bushes was So thick that I could not Shoot him and it was nearly dark, the
wind from the S W & Cool killed a beaver & an elk for their Skins
this evening

Read this entry in modern English AI-translated

June 18th Tuesday 1805. We set out early and arrived at the second great cataract at about 200 yards above the last of 19 feet pitch. This is one of the grandest views in nature and by far exceeds anything I ever saw, the Missouri falling over a shelving rock for 47 feet 8 inches with a cascade of 14 feet 7 inches above the chute for a quarter of a mile. I descended the cliff below this cataract with ease, measured the height of the perpendicular fall of 47 feet 8 inches at which place the river is 473 yards wide, as also the height of the cascade. A continual mist hangs quite across this fall.

After which we proceeded on up the river a little more than a mile to the largest fountain or spring I ever saw, and I doubt if it is not the largest in America known. This water boils up from under the rocks near the edge of the river and falls immediately into the river 8 feet, and keeps its color for half a mile, which is immensely clear and of a bluish cast. Proceeded on up the river, passed a succession of rapids to the next great fall of 26 feet 5 inches, river 580 yards wide. This fall is not entirely perpendicular; a short bench gives a curve to the water as it falls. A beautiful small island at the foot of this fall near the center of the channel is covered with trees. The Missouri at this fall is 36 yards wide. A considerable mist rises at this fall occasionally. From this pitch to the head of the rapids is one mile and has a fall of 20 feet. This is also a handsome scenery, a fall in an open level plain.

After taking the height and measuring the river, proceeded on. Saw a gang of buffalo swimming the river above the falls, several of which were drawn into the rapids and with difficulty made shore half drowned. We killed one of those cows and took as much meat as we wished. Immense herds of those animals in every direction. Passed 2 groves in the point just above the rapids and dined in one opposite the mouth of Medison River (Madison River), which falls in on the starboard side and is 137 yards wide at its mouth. The Missouri above is 800 yards wide.

As the river Missouri appears to bear southeasterly, I ascended about 4 miles up to a creek which appeared to head in south mountains. Passed an island of ____ and a little timber in an easterly bend at 1 mile, passed some timber in a point at 2 miles at or near the lower point of a large island on which we shot at a large white bear. Passed a small island in the middle and one close on the larboard shore at 3 miles, behind the head of which we camped. Those 3 islands are all opposite. Soon after we camped, two gangs of buffalo crossed, one above and the other below. We killed 7 of them and a calf and saved as much of the best of the meat as we could this evening.

One man, A. Willard, going for a load of meat at 170 yards distance on an island, was attacked by a white bear and very near being caught, pursued within 40 yards of camp where I was with one man. I collected 3 others of the party and pursued the bear (who had followed my track from a buffalo I had killed on the island at about 300 yards distance and by chance met Willard), for fear of his attacking one man, Colter, at the lower point of the island. Before we had got down, the bear had alarmed the man and pursued him into the water. At our approach he retreated, and we relieved the man in the water. I saw the bear, but the bushes were so thick that I could not shoot him, and it was nearly dark. The wind from the SW and cool. Killed a beaver and an elk for their skins this evening.

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