Fort Mandan, preparing for departure — Patrick Gass: February 25, 1805
On February 25, 1805 (with the journal continuing through subsequent days into June), the party traveled about 18 miles up the Missouri after a pleasant morning, passing two creeks and a bottom with a solitary tree holding an eagle's nest. Hunters killed three mountain sheep, which Captain Lewis likened to the ibex, and the men admired their soft hair and large horns. The surrounding hills were steep and heavily washed by rain. One man dislocated his shoulder while attempting to climb a hill, but it was reset without much difficulty. They camped on the south side.
is! ‘until the canges. came up; and. about 7 7 proceeded :
on our voyage. ‘Che forenoon was pleasant. We —
hu yacsed two screcks oppos site to each other. on the op- – 4
be
ee
rs eS
Pieris
of £
7 a
re
Pee. ee
“posite sides of the viver. About 12 we passed a! bot~
oin on the N ae ‘side with one solitary. tree Onis,
a sn which +t ere was. an ca vele’s nest. ‘he bot-
URES, s here are a small As we Wwontaune thisaf..
ternoon some of the. party killed three of what ther
“French and natives call mountain, sheep. ; but they oe
and fect, They are of a dan colour oe
s _ the ate are very a wit : thos of the ‘
heh Phey have a fine soft. hair, Captair
them the Ibex, and says they resemb:
animal | more than any other, T hey are in size,
hat Jarger than a deer. The hills here are ae 3
we and steep. One of our men in an atte: mt…
~ toclimb one had his shoulder dislocated ; it wa
however replaced «without much difficulty. ‘The Eye as
hills are very much washed in general: they app say
Tike tee vinand of eh washing Maas e vine ve we
a | eltepe a ye trees ay ee tipper id of it. “We went
a 18. miles and encamped on the. South didee tae
« Sunday 26th. Weset outearly ina fine morning,
and passed through a desert country ; ;in which there-
is no timber on any part, except a few scattered ines |
en the hills. ‘We saw few animals of any kind, but —
A oe Ibex or, mountain sheep. One of our men kil- >
eda male, which had horns two feet long and four
aed 5 diameter at abe. root. 3 ed e passe two o Cree if
¥:
eis “ ‘The Thex seyemnbien. the; chitin the shape of it body;
i hut differs in th ‘ forns which are much largér > They are |
– bent backwards, full of knots; and it is generally asserted
that there is a knotadded every year. There are some of
ae te we ey ERR atin tae al least two iti
of oy a It is. “anative oe ake Rb! ee
and mountains of Greece; – extremely ‘SVEE ot
of running | with ease along is edges of
en ig Walk or. r the Fox, though insti
“JOURN: AL |
ae ees a bat on the North side ; : and. in eee i
one of the men killeda buffaloe. At dark we came
to large rapids, where we had to unite the crews of
two or three canoes, to force them — through. It was. .
– gometime after night. before. we could encamp. We a
| – < at length, after having gone twenty-one mHes en- :
_. eamped on the South side in a small grove of timbers, ,
Tee Fe first we had seen eons | tke day. To ge
lee: TES heard of that snimaly and Sond Nn ; Case's: * 4
~*~ verbal. description, we are led to believe, that it much. —
ako one nearly resembles the wild pee ae called the Muffion
~~ or Musmon, to.be found in the uncultivated ; parts of Greece,
Sardinia, Corsica and i inthe desart ¢ of Tartary ; and which
is thought to be the primitive race and ue veal sheep in its 4
wild aad savage state. Perhaps it may be found tobeex. —
, ~ actly the same ; of which we find the following description,
© The Mufilon, or Musmon, though covered with hair,
Bears a stronger similitude to the Ram than. to: any ie 2
animal; 5 ‘like the Ramit has. the. eyes placed near the horns 3
and its ears are shorter than those of the goat: it alsore-—
Y veer les the Ram in its horns, and im all the particular eons “a
tours of its form.. The horns also are alike ; they arcof & 4
white or yellow colour; they, have three sides” as in the
- Ram, and bend backwards 3 in the same manner behind the. _
ears. The rauzzile and inside of the ears ere of a whitish ol
colour tinctured with yellow ; the other parts of the face *
- are of a brownish grey. The. general colour of the haiew - %
“ever the. body. as of.a brown, approaching to that of the,
ee eS deer. The inside of the thighs and: belly are of'awhite
_ ‘tinctured with, yellow. The form upon the whole. seems:
¢ se more made for agility and strength than that. of the coms
- monsheep; andthe Mufflon is actually found to.hive in a.
savage state, and. maintain itself either. by force or swift-
ness against all the animals that live by rapine. Such is ats |
extreme speed that many have been inclined rather to rank:
ve de among Ane te kind, cae the sticep. | Bits in this a ey are
=
IE oe
=~
2 ees raat
a
fs hae hs some these are seen Sag erow i a ae
wing size; many of them auineabben: in their eon 3
ne, peare ree seeder rn.
; arth. We ies now. ak into nee she
nts little to our view, but scenes of bar-
desolation ; and see no encouraging pre Sa
will terminate. Having proceeded (by —
of this” viver) about two. thousand. three
ae it nade therefore not be eee te
: ones ane et Ss Ww
a sufficient qounety of Gabor $in many ‘lace
ara and the ey os and erate
at is ne ee gad erent: arr fhe Bote thek WA —
oo: of an inferior quality ;. but may in general be: ae’
good second rate land. The country is. rathe r baly
/ re
Ee it SRE ARCS
- than level, though. not mountainous, rocky, or Stony. i.
The hills in their unsheltered state are much ‘expo>
sed to be washed by heavy rains. This kind of coun: |
– try and soil 1 vhich has fallen under our observation in
our progress up the Missouti, extends it is ‘under=_
stood, te a great distance on bot! h sides of the. tiver. Re
‘ae Along the Wiccouri and the waters which flow into –
oe it, cotton wood and willows are frequent I inthe botten
nd- islands ; 3 but the upland is almost entire
ut timber, and consists of large prairies or ‘plai ‘
sundaries of which the eye cannot reach. T
4s generally short on these immense n
es which 2 ay the ese? seasons are oo
a ay
– “ae
st
: the ou
Ad course,
ae pe Paters aneeeien ihe. presets
various: 8 sid
.. lebeth appearing like dark clouds and sinking i inthe ©
hee horizon 3 these enlivened with the buffaloe, elk, ack.
i os _ and otheranimals which in-vast numbers feed ‘upon:
a) oe the e plains or pursue their prey, are the prominent
objects, which compose the extensive prospects
ae to the view and strike the attention of the
helen 7 os
~The islands in the Missouri < are Bor various aloes: ;
. general not largest and dnsing bi water mostly
_everflowed. Le -
m4 “There are Tatlaa pathiiige ong: nue Missouri wad
some in other parts of the “country. Those along -
hs ‘that river do not generally follow its windings but
“eut of points of land and pursue a direct course.
There: are also roads and paths. made by the buffa~ es
Tae, andsother animals ; some | of the buffaloe. roads
are at least ten feet widé. We did not embark this.
cis “rnorning util 8 o'clock. The day was fine, but
me the wind ahead. We had. difficult, water, and passed
oe Hn ano the most dismal’ country I. ever beheld; no-
| “ver; as far as our view: could extend. aga he bed of the
2 Fiver ds rocky, and also the banks and hillsin some |
» . places; but these are chiefly: of earthy We went —
thirteen miles and encamped ima botte my just tareet
Le ‘enough fer the. purpose, and made out to ort hati
oe ee drift wood to cook with, :
AfGe ame ©’ bh Pp. as A elbnenegt came ta Bmore
thing “But barren mountains on: both sides of the ri- ‘
- Tuceday 28th. We set sail early, had a nie morn-_
, and proceeded on th rough’ this desert country ene,
po JOURNAL, aoe
By gia he rrr ) ey,
We about eighteen miles and halted at a ‘hanlalitte ae
grove of timber en the South side. Itrained alittle | Bey
all the afternoon. Some of the. men went out to ee
> Wunt andkiled aneik: Last night about 12 0’clock me
~> abuffaloe swiming the river. happened to land at
Gene of the periogues, crossed over it and broke two
~ gubs, butnot so-as to render them useless. He
‘ then went straight on through the men where they
_ ‘were sleeping, buthurt none ofthem. As we came.
along te day we passed a place where the Indians had
driven above an hundred head of buffaice down a pre-.
eipice and killed them. S Earn Tear
Tiursdcy 301th. Thégfovencon was eloudy, with —
> somerain. We “id nollltet cut till lete ip the day… |
.. The hills came in close on the river again, but are oat
es 7 gad a os
not so high. Some of. them” ‘are as black as coal ®
ahd some : white as chalk? We see amreat mz ygiresh.
– Indian tracks or signs. as’ pass along. ie Dine )
, alittle all day ; we went on slow and encamped ear~
~ ly onthe North side, in a small bottum with some ©.
cotton wood, haying proceeded on eign! MHCSe ya
There are ng pines to be scen.on the hills. :
Tivriday Sist.. We: ‘emba see early dit» 4. cloudy.
Pmorning ; passed through a mountainous countrs,
* but the game is more plenty, and we kilied some but-
fice | in ourway. About 11.o’clock it began to rai
Slowly, and continued raining two hours, when it.
eleared up. We passed sore very curious cliis and
“rocky peaks, 3 in a lone range. Some of them 200..
_ feet high and not more than eightfeet thick. They 9 |
— aseem as if built .by the ha nd of man, and are so.) ae
: “pumerous that they appe sar like the ruins ofean ana’ * 2%
‘tient city. We went 17+ miles. and encamped at.
: “the mouth of a handsome creek on the North side. a |
a Saturday let June, 3805. We. embarked. early. ee x
The morning was. cloudy, but without rain. «Wee Pe
passed through a more batons ee than infor ee
7. >
rt
“a uy not lanes ate smait
. Covered With e6tton any We | ‘saw a Riba: Ae
“mountain sheep. Yesterday our men’ killed three
of them, that “had remarkable laree horns ; one pair
“weighed 25 pounds, We. passed a- small rivet on
* the North side about -11 o’clock: “The water is not
$0 rapid to day as usual, but continues high. In the
geiternoon. we Gaasad: a’ ereek | about 30 yards wae.
‘and several: smalt islands. We Went 24 miles and
encamped on a smal! island.
Y Sunday 2nd: We embarked early ina fine morn-
“ine. The hills come clegggon the river, but are not.
80. hich nor so broken,. ay wedound them a short dig-
– ance. lower down. “his. forenoon we passed two
“ereeksp one on each ave aod several isiands cover-
ed @eeoiton wood t there 3 is not a stick of tim-
_ ber to: bé@seen. any wha | upon the hills. Some of —
the hunters killed ’a brown bear in a small bottom_on
@.. thé south side, and Having comhe 18 miles we encam-:
“~~ ped just above the bottom onthe same side, at the:
* mouth we a large titers oe 4 e. ie .
oo ae a bie 3rd: We crossed over to the. ‘point be=-. 4 |
_.. *ween the tworivers and encamped there. Thécom-* |
manding officers could not determine w hich of Nese 2. F
yivers or branches, it was proper to take ; and’there-.
fore concluded to send a’smali party up eachof them: –
Myself and two men went.up the South branch, and.
a serjeant- and two more up the North. The ‘parties
went up the two branches about 15 miles. We
found the South branch rapid with a great many —
istands and the’ general course South West. ‘The i
ether party reported the North branch’as less r apid, a
and not so deep as the other. The North branch is:
186 yards wide and the’ South ‘OTe: yards. — a hy us
water of the South branch is clear, and that of th
North uy, About a. mile and an half up.
ith ence a.” handsome: “eal :
a
>t
} ay 47°, ae 12. apes Tee ude. sie Lewis |
ee and Captaia. Clarke were not yet. sutished with Tes-— : cy
ect to the. proper river to ascend. :
») Lucsday. Ath, Captain Lewis with six men went
-mp the North branch, to see 1f they coulddind any. |
a eertain marks to peer ini ne whether that was the 6 ee
— Missouri o1 not ; and Captain Clarke myself and four
ethers went up ihe South branch, fc the: SAE PUES! Ro.
“pose with vegatd to that branch. About eieht miles’. ° ae
~~ above the confluence, the South branch andthé small |
* “river: which falls into the. North branch, are net
more than’ 200 yards apart, Near this place al
~< close on. the- bank of the Seutiitbranc h 1892 Beautiful ~
spring where we. refreshed ‘oubselves. Avo
| drink of grog; and proci@e@[d,on throug ig wig
| plains. Here nothins srows Dut prick? peaks, which
are in abundance, and some sftcrt grass. We went
on about thirty miles and found the river still exten-
ding i ina South West direction. We saw ‘gmoun-
tain to the South about 20'miles of, whicliappearedY
Morun East. and West, and some spots,on it resem-
* dling snow. In the evening we went towards the.
_viver to pencamp, where. one of the men having got
pe ie asinall point of woods on the bank, before. §
the rest of. theparty, was attacked by a huge he-bear,
9 “and bis gun missed fire. We were about 200 yards - |
' from him, but the bank there was so steep we could
oe ger wee to. his Apptence : a Wes sige fired ae
S
a Bee ry oS
aye mane off’ eaetay injuring ‘the man. “Havin ‘got ae
aie wD. we alk encamped in an old tnd ian lodge for the. a -
Fs 5th. omen light showers of tain fell”
night, and, the: morning was cloudy
to: act out ee ea three b
+Y +
ee a mountain, Soa of 1 us De oe oe that had a
Piuah last, aie Wheb we had Boe ee oe MW miles _
eae Cog els se course for. us to. proceeds on our ag
VO) aE, aud we turne 2d back. towar ds‘ the camp | again. en
de Wevwe entiabout 15 miles and strack the small Tiver a
about 20 miles from its mouth. Here we killed some |
> elk and deerend encamped all night.’ “Thereisa—
y reat. geal of tirabe cr in the ere ar this: hte: vl-”
ey part: cular. ‘
er. Thur slay 6h. © We reuivosded™ ree Hye hall *
ao a and kilied: scme deer. About 1 o’elock we __
aoe weet on the plains abe sain whic me we kept on ll we
ees | oe ee Lewis _
ue Coal his party. Wan not! re
ve _ ‘this afternc GGT bi: Spey eT ae Oe ae
Briday 7th. Tt rane tally Captain en Si an
party did not return. He fine a a
me Saturday ‘Sth… ‘A fine fool morning. “aot ron
‘ clock A. M. the water of the South fiver, or branch,
‘became al most of the celour of claret, and remained
“so. all day. (he water. of th the other branch hasthe
‘appearance of milk when contra sted y git the water ‘
ofthis branch Ip its pr resent ‘state. J Bou ;
afternoon Captain Lewis and lis party came prec phan |
“They had been up the North branch about 60. Y <
| iba at Ravigeble, tha at distance 5 ‘not :
west. 7 pte while but Kill
ne -elk. ‘From the appearance, or the —
river where they left it to return, they supposed. ae |
: ritaiabe be navigable ; a considerable | dist ance further,
- , They saw.no mountains ahead, bu one off toware
a north: it was. not covered with s snow ‘like’ t 10
ye had seen. Both these rivers. abound i in fish ; - an Byes
we caught some of different kinds, but not large.
* About five O "clock i in. the -afternoon the weather be- ee
(3, eae
‘y! hop
“ag .
% id
The other they called Maria’s S river.
“rain ceased. .
- Sunday 92h. A fine morning. tt was tho |
__ adviseable to Ieave the large periogue hereand p
2 of the stores and baggage, and some of the
. en aged in digging a casejto bury them in. The wa-
‘ter of the Missouri change ‘this'morning - ‘ig bee tes fe
mer colour. The day was fine, but the wind blew
hard from the northwest. One of the menkiledan
excellent fat buffaloe. There is a quantity of gdosé=.
_. berry and choak-cherry bi ishes on n the point, and also Oh ee
eS iting rabbit berries. ee
Monilay Oih. We hauled ¢ our large periopue on. oe
“an island in the mouth of Maria’s river, and covered
‘at ithabrush. We then began to examine and
~ assort our effects to see what would be least wan ted
and most proper to leave ; but about two it beg
a _- Fain and blow so hard, we were obliged to deeice”
rain continued enly an hour, and in the: evening »
Toaded est of the neuen and left the igi oe °
At dark the tae mh
a
| articles amountin
g to Shout one “howd oe
The rest of the’ party wer é Y cosveeh é in a he
Ne which had been left, and |
he following morning.
CHAP. oe
ee Wednesday 1248. The ‘morning. was fae? We oe
ee a from the mouth of Maria’s river, “and: we i cee
on very well. In the forenoon we passed 12 isla
~ At 1 o’clock the weather became cloudy and th:
ened rain; at 2 there was a light shower, and |
- day became clear. We passed three islands this
_ . ternoon’and some handsome’ bluffs on both sides of |
the river. , We went 18 miles and encamped ina .
~ small bottom on the north. oes, where we > killed 2
élk and some deer. :
_ Thursday 18th. We set out
a a Some dew fell last night. We i
a ee K on the south side, calle OW pay The
“water: of the river is very clear and the current very
Yapid. We passed a number of islands covered with —
, _ timber ; but there is none to > be seen on ‘the oy, )
_ either’side. We we it 14
ae the south side. ‘
* y ; : « i Sa ‘
i oa BCS ant eae Cee bs is : Sie :
Ne it : Ree, at or hey cy ae ‘5 .
eo
} : Soe
aes
) ing was plsasant: ArOuL a Oo slog z M. we pa ‘
ae place where Captain Lewis and his men had killed ~
_ two bears, and had left a note directing us where Oe
caine t them. About 2 one 2 of Denar a Lewis’ “smen m ;
da Ly 15th. “We pro secded on as. usual, ’
vapid watery T ever saw any
LO a IN ele JOURNAL.
“re on the south side called Soaationn creek, *
handsome rapid stream, but not large. On a point a 4
above, there is a great quantity of strawberry, goose-
” berry and choak-cherry bushes; and there appears
_ to be a good deal of small cotton-wood on the banks”
of this creek. In the afternoon we passed redblufis
ee both sides of the river, and at night came to a large – :
| ‘Yrapl l which we did not venture to pass so late ; ane 4
therefore encaniped below an the north side, after” ;
» ~~ “going 12 miles. :
oe Sunday 16h, In the morning all hands’ were en-
ee ‘gaged in taking the canoes over the rapid abouta =
_ ss mile in length, which having accemplished They te- 4
mm ‘turned and took up the periogue, where we halted
to examine anothers great rapid close ahead. One —
’ aman had been sent on last night to Captain Lewis, to |
find out what disceveries he had made. We remain-
“ed here some time, and a few of the men went out
ee Want. About floon Captain Lewis and the: party
. ie with him joined us, and the: hunters came in. Cap-
‘tain Lewis had been up the falls 15 miles above the __
first dea or pkg and found the falls continue alk
ere were 5 different shoots
oe 40 or 50 feet perpendicular each, and very rapid wa-
Te ter between them. As we found the south side the
best to carry our canoes up, we crossed over and ulte ©
‘toaded our craft. We then had to take the empty ©
» ee to the side we had 2 and to tow them xP
Reel as sages but we smcceeded § in getting einem all
over safe. jee
fen, Monday 17th. Part of the men were employed i in
yeh taking the canoes up the small river about a mile andy
an half; and some engaged in making. small Wages ge
é, ons, to haul the: canoes and bench above ‘the eee. a
bene
JOURNAL.
aptain Clarke and 4 men went to view and owek oe
ou foad to the place. where we were toembark above
the falls. Opposite the mouth of the small river, a
we eaicdul sulphur spring rises out.of the bank, of-as
– (se strong sulphur water as I have ever seen. Onthe
-. bottoms of this small river and ‘also on the Missow Bea
4 18 a great quantity of flax growing, and at this time
– in bloom. ‘Two men went out this mornin; t > huns. Baie
for elk, in order to-get their skins for covering tothe
¥ron frame of a beat, which we had with us. In the do.
– evening the men got the canoes to-a proper place to
take them upon land: :
-.. Tuesday 18th. The aeniagie was-hauled out ‘of er! |
iz water and laid safe; and some men went to dig a:
place for depositing more of our baggage. About 1s:
the two hanters came in, and could find:ne elk, but
: killed 10 deer. In the evening we compleated ou
-waggons, which were made altogether of wood, and =~
of a very ordinary quality; but it is. expected sree tah.
will answer the purpose. Me Per:
Read this entry in modern English AI-translated
...until the canoes came up; and about 7 we proceeded on our voyage. The forenoon was pleasant. We passed two creeks opposite to each other on the opposite sides of the river. About 12 we passed a bottom on the N. side with one solitary tree on it, on which there was an eagle's nest. The bottoms here are small. As we went on this afternoon some of the party killed three of what the French and natives call mountain sheep; but they more resemble the goat in their appearance and feet. They are of a dun colour, and their horns are very large, like those of the ram. They have fine soft hair. Captain Lewis calls them the Ibex, and says they resemble that animal more than any other. They are in size somewhat larger than a deer. The hills here are very high and steep. One of our men in an attempt to climb one had his shoulder dislocated; it was however replaced without much difficulty. The hills are very much washed in general: they appear like the sand of a sea beach washed by the waves. We went 18 miles and camped on the South side.
Sunday 26th. We set out early in a fine morning, and passed through a desert country, in which there is no timber on any part, except a few scattered pines on the hills. We saw few animals of any kind, but the Ibex or mountain sheep. One of our men killed a male, which had horns two feet long and four inches in diameter at the root. We passed two creeks and a bottom on the North side; and in the afternoon one of the men killed a buffalo. At dark we came to large rapids, where we had to unite the crews of two or three canoes, to force them up through. It was sometime after night before we could camp. We at length, after having gone twenty-one miles, camped on the South side in a small grove of timber, the first we had seen on this day.
[Note: The Ibex resembles the goat in the shape of its body, but differs in the horns which are much larger. They are bent backwards, full of knots; and it is generally asserted that there is a knot added every year. There are some of these horns at least two feet long. It is a native of the Alps and mountains of Greece; extremely swift, and capable of running with ease along the edges of rocks. From the description we have heard of that animal, and from Captain Lewis's verbal description, we are led to believe that it much more nearly resembles the wild sheep called the Mufflon or Musmon, to be found in the uncultivated parts of Greece, Sardinia, Corsica and in the desert of Tartary; and which is thought to be the primitive race and the original sheep in its wild and savage state. Perhaps it may be found to be exactly the same; of which we find the following description: "The Mufflon, or Musmon, though covered with hair, bears a stronger similitude to the Ram than to any other animal; like the Ram it has the eyes placed near the horns; and its ears are shorter than those of the goat: it also resembles the Ram in its horns, and in all the particular contours of its form. The horns also are alike; they are of a white or yellow colour; they have three sides as in the Ram, and bend backwards in the same manner behind the ears. The muzzle and inside of the ears are of a whitish colour tinctured with yellow; the other parts of the face are of a brownish grey. The general colour of the hair over the body is of a brown, approaching to that of the deer. The inside of the thighs and belly are of a white tinctured with yellow. The form upon the whole seems more made for agility and strength than that of the common sheep; and the Mufflon is actually found to live in a savage state, and maintain itself either by force or swiftness against all the animals that live by rapine. Such is its extreme speed that many have been inclined rather to rank it among the deer kind than the sheep."]
Some of these are seen of an enormous size; many of them remarkable in their appearance. We have now entered into a country which presents little to our view but scenes of barren desolation; and we see no encouraging prospect that it will terminate. Having proceeded (by the course of this river) about two thousand three hundred miles, it need therefore not be a matter of surprise that the soil along the banks is in many places sandy, and the hills and bluffs of an inferior quality; but may in general be called good second rate land. The country is rather hilly than level, though not mountainous, rocky, or stony. The hills in their unsheltered state are much exposed to be washed by heavy rains. This kind of country and soil which has fallen under our observation in our progress up the Missouri, extends it is understood, to a great distance on both sides of the river. Along the Missouri and the waters which flow into it, cottonwood and willows are frequent in the bottoms and islands; but the upland is almost entirely without timber, and consists of large prairies or plains, the boundaries of which the eye cannot reach. The grass is generally short on these immense plains, which during the dry seasons are scorched by the sun. The various streams whose distant beds appear like dark clouds sinking in the horizon, enlivened with the buffalo, elk, deer and other animals which in vast numbers feed upon the plains or pursue their prey, are the prominent objects which compose the extensive prospects presented to the view and strike the attention of the traveller.
The islands in the Missouri are of various sizes; in general not large, and during high water mostly overflowed.
There are Indian paths along the Missouri and some in other parts of the country. Those along that river do not generally follow its windings but cut off points of land and pursue a direct course. There are also roads and paths made by the buffalo and other animals; some of the buffalo roads are at least ten feet wide. We did not embark this morning until 8 o'clock. The day was fine, but the wind ahead. We had difficult water, and passed through the most dismal country I ever beheld; nothing but barren mountains on both sides of the river, as far as our view could extend. The bed of the river is rocky, and also the banks and hills in some places; but these are chiefly of earth. We went thirteen miles and camped in a bottom just large enough for the purpose, and made out to gather some drift wood to cook with.
Tuesday 28th. We set sail early, had a fine morning, and proceeded on through this desert country. We went about eighteen miles and halted at a handsome little grove of timber on the South side. It rained a little all the afternoon. Some of the men went out to hunt and killed an elk. Last night about 12 o'clock a buffalo swimming the river happened to land at one of the periogues, crossed over it and broke two ribs, but not so as to render them useless. He then went straight on through the men where they were sleeping, but hurt none of them. As we came along today we passed a place where the Indians had driven above an hundred head of buffalo down a precipice and killed them.
Thursday 30th. The forenoon was cloudy, with some rain. We did not set out till late in the day. The hills came in close on the river again, but are not so high. Some of them are as black as coal and some white as chalk. We see a great many fresh Indian tracks or signs as we pass along. It rained a little all day; we went on slow and camped early on the North side, in a small bottom with some cottonwood, having proceeded eight miles. There are no pines to be seen on the hills.
Friday 31st. We embarked early in a cloudy morning; passed through a mountainous country, but the game is more plenty, and we killed some buffalo in our way. About 11 o'clock it began to rain slowly, and continued raining two hours, when it cleared up. We passed some very curious cliffs and rocky peaks, in a long range. Some of them 200 feet high and not more than eight feet thick. They seem as if built by the hand of man, and are so numerous that they appear like the ruins of an ancient city. We went 17½ miles and camped at the mouth of a handsome creek on the North side.
Saturday 1st June, 1805. We embarked early. The morning was cloudy, but without rain. We passed through a more barren country than in former days, and the hills come close on the river; but they are not so high as before, and the bottoms are small, covered with cottonwood. We saw a number of mountain sheep. Yesterday our men killed three of them that had remarkably large horns; one pair weighed 25 pounds. We passed a small river on the North side about 11 o'clock. The water is not so rapid today as usual, but continues high. In the afternoon we passed a creek about 30 yards wide, and several small islands. We went 24 miles and camped on a small island.
Sunday 2nd. We embarked early in a fine morning. The hills come close on the river, but are not so high nor so broken as we found them a short distance lower down. This forenoon we passed two creeks, one on each side, and several islands covered with cottonwood; but there is not a stick of timber to be seen anywhere upon the hills. Some of the hunters killed a brown bear in a small bottom on the south side, and having come 18 miles we camped just above the bottom on the same side, at the mouth of a large river.
Monday 3rd. We crossed over to the point between the two rivers and camped there. The commanding officers could not determine which of these rivers or branches it was proper to take; and therefore concluded to send a small party up each of them. Myself and two men went up the South branch, and a sergeant and two more up the North. The parties went up the two branches about 15 miles. We found the South branch rapid with a great many islands and the general course South West. The other party reported the North branch as less rapid, and not so deep as the other. The North branch is 186 yards wide and the South 372 yards. The water of the South branch is clear, and that of the North muddy. About a mile and a half up the North branch there is a handsome small river that empties into it.
Latitude 47°, 24', 12". Captain Lewis (Capt. Lewis) and Captain Clarke (Capt. Clark) were not yet satisfied with respect to the proper river to ascend.
Tuesday 4th. Captain Lewis with six men went up the North branch, to see if they could find any certain marks to ascertain whether that was the Missouri or not; and Captain Clarke, myself and four others went up the South branch, for the same purpose with regard to that branch. About eight miles above the confluence, the South branch and the small river which falls into the North branch are not more than 200 yards apart. Near this place and close on the bank of the South branch is a beautiful spring where we refreshed ourselves with a drink of grog, and proceeded on through the plains. Here nothing grows but prickly pears, which are in abundance, and some short grass. We went on about thirty miles and found the river still extending in a South West direction. We saw a mountain to the South about 20 miles off, which appeared to run East and West, and some spots on it resembling snow. In the evening we went towards the river to camp, where one of the men having got into a small point of woods on the bank, before the rest of the party, was attacked by a huge he-bear, and his gun missed fire. We were about 200 yards from him, but the bank there was so steep we could not get down to his assistance: we however fired at the bear and he made off without injuring the man. Having got down we all camped in an old Indian lodge for the night.
Wednesday 5th. Some light showers of rain fell last night, and the morning was cloudy. We killed three buffalo this morning. About a mile from our camp we ascended a mountain, from which we could see that the river ran nearly west to the foot of the mountains, and when we had gone about 8 miles further it appeared not to be a proper course for us to proceed on our voyage, and we turned back towards the camp again. We went about 15 miles and struck the small river about 20 miles from its mouth. Here we killed some elk and deer and camped all night. There is a great deal of timber on the small river in this valley particularly.
Thursday 6th. We proceeded down the small river and killed some deer. About 1 o'clock we went on the plains again, which we kept on till we came to camp; where we found Captain Lewis and his party had not returned, but were expected this afternoon.
Friday 7th. It rained hard. Captain Lewis and his party did not return. The hunters killed two buffalo.
Saturday 8th. A fine cool morning. About 9 o'clock A.M. the water of the South river, or branch, became almost of the colour of claret, and remained so all day. The water of the other branch has the appearance of milk when contrasted with the water of this branch in its present state. About four in the afternoon Captain Lewis and his party came in. They had been up the North branch about 60 miles, and found it navigable that distance; the general course nearly west. They saw no game while out, but killed an elk. From the appearance of the river where they left it to return, they supposed it might be navigable a considerable distance further. They saw no mountains ahead, but one off towards the north: it was not covered with snow like those we had seen. Both these rivers abound in fish; and we caught some of different kinds, but not large. About five o'clock in the afternoon the weather became cloudy. At dark the rain ceased.
Sunday 9th. A fine morning. It was thought advisable to leave the large periogue here, and part of the stores and baggage, and some of the men engaged in digging a cache to bury them in. The water of the Missouri changed this morning to its former colour. The day was fine, but the wind blew hard from the northwest. One of the men killed an excellent fat buffalo. There is a quantity of gooseberry and chokecherry bushes on the point, and also some rabbit berries.
Monday 10th. We hauled our large periogue on an island in the mouth of Maria's river, and covered it with brush. We then began to examine and assort our effects to see what would be least wanted and most proper to leave; but about two it began to rain and blow so hard, we were obliged to desist. The rain continued only an hour, and in the evening we loaded most of the canoes and left the rest of the articles amounting to about one thousand pounds in weight. The rest of the party were occupied in repairing a canoe which had been left, and which we expected to take with us the following morning.
The other they called Maria's river.
CHAP. [chapter break]
Wednesday 12th. The morning was fine. We set sail from the mouth of Maria's river, and we went on very well. In the forenoon we passed 12 islands. At 1 o'clock the weather became cloudy and threatened rain; at 2 there was a light shower, and then the day became clear. We passed three islands this afternoon and some handsome bluffs on both sides of the river. We went 18 miles and camped in a small bottom on the north side, where we killed an elk and some deer.
Thursday 13th. We set out early in a fine morning. Some dew fell last night. We passed a creek on the south side, called Snow creek. The water of the river is very clear and the current very rapid. We passed a number of islands covered with timber; but there is none to be seen on the hills on either side. We went 14 miles and camped on the south side.
[The morning] was pleasant. About 8 o'clock A.M. we passed a place where Captain Lewis and his men had killed two bears, and had left a note directing us where to find them. About 2 one of Captain Lewis's men met us, who had been sent to inform us that the falls were not far ahead.
Saturday 15th. We proceeded on as usual, against the most rapid water I ever saw any craft taken through. We passed a creek on the south side called Strawberry creek, a handsome rapid stream, but not large. On a point above, there is a great quantity of strawberry, gooseberry and chokecherry bushes; and there appears to be a good deal of small cottonwood on the banks of this creek. In the afternoon we passed red bluffs on both sides of the river, and at night came to a large rapid which we did not venture to pass so late; and therefore camped below on the north side, after going 12 miles.
Sunday 16th. In the morning all hands were engaged in taking the canoes over the rapid about a mile in length, which having accomplished they returned and took up the periogue, where we halted to examine another great rapid close ahead. One man had been sent on last night to Captain Lewis, to find out what discoveries he had made. We remained here some time, and a few of the men went out to hunt. About noon Captain Lewis and the party with him joined us, and the hunters came in. Captain Lewis had been up the falls 15 miles above the first shoal or pitch, and found the falls continue all that way. There were 5 different shoots, 40 or 50 feet perpendicular each, and very rapid water between them. As we found the south side the best to carry our canoes up, we crossed over and unloaded our craft. We then had to take the empty canoes to the side we had left, and to tow them up to a small river; but we succeeded in getting them all over safe.
Monday 17th. Part of the men were employed in taking the canoes up the small river about a mile and a half; and some engaged in making small wagons to haul the canoes and baggage above the falls. Captain Clarke and 4 men went to view and mark out a road to the place where we were to embark above the falls. Opposite the mouth of the small river, a beautiful sulphur spring rises out of the bank, of as strong sulphur water as I have ever seen. On the bottoms of this small river and also on the Missouri, is a great quantity of flax growing, and at this time in bloom. Two men went out this morning to hunt for elk, in order to get their skins for covering to the iron frame of a boat which we had with us. In the evening the men got the canoes to a proper place to take them upon land.
Tuesday 18th. The periogue was hauled out of the water and laid safe; and some men went to dig a place for depositing more of our baggage. About 1 the two hunters came in, and could find no elk, but killed 10 deer. In the evening we completed our wagons, which were made altogether of wood, and of a very ordinary quality; but it is expected they will answer the purpose.
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