Clark: October 18, 1805

October 18th Friday 1805. A cold morning, fair, with wind from the southeast. Several heath hens or large pheasants landed near us and the men killed six of them.

Took one altitude of the sun's upper limb 28° 22' 15" at h m s 8 1 24 A.M.

Several Indian canoes came down and joined those with us. We made a Second Chief by giving him a medal and wampum. I also gave a string of wampum to the old Chief who came down with us, and informed the Indians of our views and intentions in a council.

Measured the width of the Columbia River: from the Point across to a point of view is S 22° W; from the Point up the Columbia to a point of view is N. 84° W., 148 poles; thence across to the first point of view is S 28½ E.

Measured the width of the Ki-moo-e-nim River: from the Point across to an object on the opposite side is N. 41½ E; from the Point up the river is N. 8 E., 82 poles; thence across to the point of view is N. 79° East.

Distance across the Columbia: 960¾ yards of water. Distance across the Ki-moo-e-nim: 575 yards of water.

The name of the nation above the mouth of the Ki-moo-e-nim is So-Kulk (Pierced Noses). The name of the nation on the Kimoenim River is Chopun-nish (Pierced Noses) at the Prairie. The name of a nation at the second forks of the Tape-tele River, or Nocktock fork, is Chim-na-pum, some of whom reside with the So-kulks above this place and a few miles distant. Four men in a canoe came up from below, stayed a few minutes, and returned.

Took a meridian altitude 68° 57' 30" of the sun's upper limb. The latitude produced is 46° 15' 13 9/10" North. Capt Lewis (Capt. Lewis) took a vocabulary of the So-kulk or Pierced Noses language and the Chim-na-pum language, which differ in some words, but they were originally the same people. The Great Chief Cuts-Sa-h-nim gave me a sketch of the rivers and tribes above on the great river and its waters, on which he marked great numbers of villages of his nation and friends, as noted on the sketch.

The fish being very bad—those which were offered to us we had every reason to believe were taken up dead from the shore—we thought it proper not to purchase any. We purchased forty dogs, for which we gave articles of little value such as beads, bells, and thimbles, of which they appeared very fond. At 4 o'clock we set out down the great Columbia accompanied by our two old Chiefs. One young man wished to accompany us, but we had no room for more, and he could be of no service to us.

The Great Chief continued with us until our departure.

We camped a little below and opposite the lower point of the island on the larboard side. No wood was to be found, so we were obliged to make use of small dried willows to cook. Our old Chief informed us that the great Chief of all the nations about lived at the nine lodges above and wished us to land, etc. He said he would go up and call him over. They went up and did not return until late at night. About 20 came down, built a fire above, and stayed all night. The Chief brought a basket of mashed berries.

October 18th Friday 1805. This morning cool and fair, with wind from the S. E. Six of the large prairie cock were killed this morning. Several canoes of Indians came down and joined those with us. We held a council with them, in which we informed them of our friendly intentions towards them and all other of our red children, and of our wish to make a peace between all of our red children in this quarter, etc., etc. This was conveyed by signs through our two Chiefs who accompanied us, and was understood. We made a second Chief and gave strings of wampum to them all in remembrance of what we said. Four men in a canoe came up from a large encampment on an island in the river about 8 miles below. They delayed but a few minutes and returned without speaking a word to us.

The Great Chief and one of the Chim-na-pum nation drew me a sketch of the Columbia above and the tribes of his nation living on the banks and its waters, and the Tape-tett River, which falls in 18 miles above on the westerly side. See sketch below for the number of villages and nations, etc., etc.

We thought it necessary to lay in a store of provisions for our voyage, and the fish being out of season, we purchased forty dogs, for which we gave articles of little value such as bells, thimbles, knitting pins, brass wire, and a few beads, with all of which they appeared well satisfied and pleased.

Everything being arranged, we took in our two Chiefs and set out on the great Columbia River, having left our guide and the two young men. Two of them were inclined not to proceed any further, and the third could be of no service to us as he did not know the river below.

Took our leave of the Chiefs and all those about us, and proceeded on down the great Columbia River. Passed a large island at 8 miles, about 3 miles in length; an island on the starboard side, the upper point of which is opposite the center of the last-mentioned island and reaches 3½ miles below the first island; and opposite to this, near the middle of the river, nine lodges are situated on the upper point at a rapid which is between the lower point of the first island and the upper point of this. Great numbers of Indians appeared to be on this island, and immense quantities of fish were on scaffolds. We landed a few minutes to view a rapid which commenced at the lower point. Passed this rapid, which was very bad, between two small islands, with two still smaller near the larboard side. At this rapid on the starboard side are two lodges of Indians drying fish. At 2½ miles lower, and 14½ below the point, we passed an island close under the starboard side, on which were two lodges of Indians drying fish on scaffolds as above. At 16 miles from the point, the river passes into the range of high country, at which place the rocks project into the river from the high cliffs which are on the larboard side about two-thirds of the way across, and those on the starboard side about the same distance. The country rises here about 200 feet above the water and is bordered with black rugged rocks. At the commencement of this high country, on the larboard side, a small rivulet falls in, which appears to have passed under the high country in its whole course. Saw a mountain bearing S. W., conical in form, covered with snow. Passed 4 islands. At the upper point of the third is a rapid; on this island are two lodges of Indians drying fish. On the fourth island, close under the starboard side, are nine large lodges of Indians drying fish on scaffolds as above. At this place we were called to land, but as it was near night and there was no appearance of wood, we proceeded on about 2 miles lower to some willows, at which place we observed a drift log. We formed a camp on the larboard side under a high hill nearly opposite to five lodges of Indians. Soon after we landed, our old Chiefs informed us that the large camp above "was the camp of the first Chief of all the tribes in this quarter, and that he had called to us to land and stay all night with him, that he had plenty of wood for us, etc." This would have been agreeable to us had it been understood, particularly as we were compelled to use dried willows for fuel for the purpose of cooking. We requested the old Chiefs to walk up on the side where we had landed and call to the Chief to come down and stay with us all night, which they did. Late at night the Chief came down, accompanied by 20 men, and formed a camp a short distance above. The Chief brought with him a large basket of mashed berries, which he left at our lodge as a present. I saw on the mainland opposite those lodges a number of horses feeding. We made 21 miles today.