Clark: October 19, 1805
The expedition met with Chief Yelleppit and two other chiefs in the morning, smoking together and giving out a medal, handkerchief, and strings of wampum. Declining the chief's request to stay until midday, they set out at 9 a.m. and traveled 36 miles down the Columbia, navigating a difficult two-mile rapid. Clark climbed a 200-foot cliff and spotted a snow-covered peak he believed to be Mount St. Helens. He calmed frightened villagers at five lodges by smoking and sharing gifts; Sacagawea's presence reassured them the party was peaceful. They camped opposite 24 lodges, where Cruzatte and Gibson entertained roughly 100 Indians with violin music. Clark shot a crane and a duck for supper.
October 19th Saturday, The Great Chief 2d Chief and a Chief of a band
below Came and Smoked with us we gave a Meadel a String of Wampom &
handkerchef to the Great Chief by name Yel-leppit The 2d Chief we gave a
String of wampom, his name is ____ The 3d who lives below a String of
Wampom his name I did not learn. the Chief requested us to Stay untill 12
we excused our Selves and Set out at 9 oClock
P. Crusat played on the Violin which pleasd and astonished those reches
who are badly Clad, 3/4 with robes not half large enough to cover them,
they are homeley high Cheeks, and but fiew orniments. I Suped on the Crane
which I killed to day.
—
October 19th Saturday 1805 The great chief Yel-lep-pit two other chiefs,
and a Chief of Band below presented themselves to us verry early this
morning. we Smoked with them, enformed them as we had all others above as
well as we Could by Signs of our friendly intentions towards our red
children Perticular those who opened their ears to our Councils. we gave a
Medal, a Handkercheif & a String of Wompom to Yelleppit and a String
of wompom to each of the others. Yelleppit is a bold handsom Indian, with
a dignified countenance about 35 years of age, about 5 feet 8 inches high
and well perpotiond. he requested us to delay untill the Middle of the
day, that his people might Come down and See us, we excused our Selves and
promised to Stay with him one or 2 days on our return which appeared to
Satisfy him; great numbers of Indians Came down in Canoes to view us
before we Set out which was not untill 9 oClock A M. we proceeded on
passed a Island, close under the Lard Side about Six miles in length
opposit to the lower point of which two Isds. are situated on one of which
five Lodges vacent & Saffolds drying fish at the upper point of this
Island Swift water. a Short distance below passed two Islands; one near
the middle of the river on which is Seven lodges of Indians drying fish,
at our approach they hid themselves in their Lodges and not one was to be
seen untill we passed, they then Came out in greater numbers than is
common in Lodges of their Size, it is probable that, the inhabitants of
the 5 Lodges above had in a fright left their lodges and decended to this
place to defend them Selves if attackted there being a bad rapid opposit
the Island thro which we had to pass prevented our landing on this Island
and passifying those people, about four miles below this fritened Island
we arrived at the head of a verry bad rapid, we came too on the Lard Side
to view the rapid before we would venter to run it, as the Chanel appeared
to be close under the oppd. Shore, and it would be necessary to liten our
canoe, I deturmined to walk down on the Lard Side, with the 2 Chiefs the
interpreter & his woman, and derected the Small canoe to prcede down
on the Lard Side to the foot of the rapid which was about 2 miles in
length I Sent on the Indian Chiefs &c. down and I assended a high
clift about 200 feet above the water from the top of which is a leavel
plain extending up the river and off for a great extent, at this place the
Countrey becoms low on each Side of the river, and affords a prospect of
the river and countrey below for great extent both to the right and left;
from this place I descovered a high mountain of emence hight covered with
Snow, this must be one of the mountains laid down by Vancouver, as Seen
from the mouth of the Columbia River, from the Course which it bears which
is West I take it to be Mt. St. Helens, destant 156 miles a range of
mountains in the Derection crossing, a conacal mountain S. W. toped with
Snow This rapid I observed as I passed opposit to it to be verry bad
interseped with high rock and Small rockey Islands, here I observed banks
of Muscle Shells banked up in the river in Several places, I Delayed at
the foot of the rapid about 2 hours for the Canoes which I Could See met
with much dificuelty in passing down the rapid on the oposit Side maney
places the men were obliged to get into the water and haul the canoes over
Sholeswhile Setting on a rock wateing for Capt Lewis I Shot a Crain
which was flying over of the common kind. I observed a great number of
Lodges on the opposit Side at Some distance below and Several Indians on
the opposit bank passing up to where Capt. Lewis was with the Canoes,
others I Saw on a knob nearly opposit to me at which place they delayed
but a Short time before they returned to their Lodges as fast as they
could run, I was fearfull that those people might not be informed of us, I
deturmined to take the little Canoe which was with me and proceed with the
three men in it to the Lodges, on my aproach not one person was to be Seen
except three men off in the plains, and they Sheared off as I aproached
near the Shore, I landed in front of five Lodges which was at no great
distance from each other, Saw no person the enteranc or Dores of the
Lodges wer Shut with the Same materials of which they were built a mat, I
approached one with a pipe in my hand entered a lodge which was the
nearest to me found 32 persons men, women and a few children Setting
permiscuesly in the Lodg, in the greatest agutation, Some crying and
ringing there hands, others hanging their heads. I gave my hand to them
all and made Signs of my friendly dispotion and offered the men my pipe to
Smok and distributed a fiew Small articles which I had in my pockets,-this
measure passified those distressed people verry much, I then Sent one man
into each lodge and entered a Second myself the inhabitants of which I
found more fritened than those of the first lodge I destributed Sundrey
Small articles amongst them, and Smoked with the men, I then entered the
third 4h & fifth Lodge which I found Somewhat passified, the three
men, Drewer Jo. & R. Fields, haveing useed everey means in their power
to convince them of our friendly disposition to them, I then Set my Self
on a rock and made Signs to the men to come and Smoke with me not one Come
out untill the Canoes arrived with the 2 Chiefs, one of whom spoke aloud,
and as was their Custom to all we had passed the Indians came out &
Set by me and Smoked They said we came from the clouds &c &c and
were not men &c. &c. this time Capt. Lewis came down with the
Canoes rear in which the Indian, as Soon as they Saw the Squar wife of the
interperters they pointed to her and informed those who continued yet in
the Same position I first found them, they imediately all came out and
appeared to assume new life, the sight of This Indian woman, wife to one
of our interprs. confirmed those people of our friendly intentions, as no
woman ever accompanies a war party of Indians in this quarterCapt
Lewis joined us and we Smoked with those people in the greatest
friendship, dureing which time one of our Old Chiefs informed them who we
were from whence we Came and where we were going giveing them a friendly
account of us, those people do not Speak prosisely the Same language of
those above but understand them, I Saw Several Horses and persons on hors
back in the plains maney of the men womin and children Came up from the
Lodges below; all of them appeared pleased to See us, we traded some fiew
articles for fish and berries, Dined, and proceeded on passed a Small
rapid and 15 Lodges below the five, and Encamped below an Island Close
under the Lard Side, nearly opposit to 24 Lodges on an Island near the
middle of the river, and the Main Stard Shor Soon after we landed which
was at a fiew willow trees about 100 Indians Came from the different
Lodges, and a number of them brought wood which they gave us, we Smoked
with all of them, and two of our Party Peter Crusat & Gibson played on
the violin which delighted them greatly, we gave to the principal man a
String of wompon treated them kindly for which they appeared greatfull,
This Tribe can raise about 350 men their Dress are Similar to those at the
fork except their robes are Smaller and do not reach lower than the waste
and 3/4 of them have Scercely any robes at all, the women have only a
Small pece of a robe which Covers their Sholders neck and reaching down
behind to their wastes, with a tite piece of leather about the waste, the
brests are large and hang down verry low illy Shaped, high Cheeks
flattened heads, & have but fiew orniments, they are all employed in
fishing and drying fish of which they have great quantites on their
Scaffolds, their habits customs &c. I could not lern. I killed a Duck
that with the Crain afforded us a good Supper. the Indians continued all
night at our fires
This day we made 36 miles.
Read this entry in modern English AI-translated
October 19th Saturday. The Great Chief, 2nd Chief, and a Chief of a band below came and smoked with us. We gave a Medal, a String of Wampum, and a handkerchief to the Great Chief, by name Yel-leppit. To the 2nd Chief we gave a String of wampum; his name is ____. The 3rd, who lives below, received a String of Wampum; his name I did not learn. The Chief requested us to stay until 12, but we excused ourselves and set out at 9 o'clock.
P. Crusat (Cruzatte) played on the violin, which pleased and astonished those wretches who are badly clad, three-quarters of them with robes not half large enough to cover them. They are homely, with high cheeks, and few ornaments. I supped on the crane which I killed today.
October 19th Saturday 1805. The great chief Yel-lep-pit, two other chiefs, and a Chief of a Band below presented themselves to us very early this morning. We smoked with them and informed them, as we had all others above, as well as we could by signs, of our friendly intentions toward our red children, particularly those who opened their ears to our councils. We gave a Medal, a Handkerchief, and a String of Wampum to Yelleppit, and a String of wampum to each of the others. Yelleppit is a bold, handsome Indian with a dignified countenance, about 35 years of age, about 5 feet 8 inches high, and well proportioned. He requested us to delay until the middle of the day so that his people might come down and see us. We excused ourselves and promised to stay with him one or two days on our return, which appeared to satisfy him. Great numbers of Indians came down in canoes to view us before we set out, which was not until 9 o'clock A.M.
We proceeded on, passing an island close under the Larboard Side about six miles in length, opposite the lower point of which two islands are situated. On one of these were five lodges, vacant, and scaffolds drying fish. At the upper point of this island was swift water. A short distance below we passed two islands; one near the middle of the river had seven lodges of Indians drying fish. At our approach they hid themselves in their lodges and not one was to be seen until we passed; they then came out in greater numbers than is common in lodges of their size. It is probable that the inhabitants of the 5 lodges above had, in a fright, left their lodges and descended to this place to defend themselves if attacked. There being a bad rapid opposite the island through which we had to pass, we were prevented from landing on this island and pacifying those people.
About four miles below this frightened island we arrived at the head of a very bad rapid. We came to on the Larboard Side to view the rapid before we would venture to run it. As the channel appeared to be close under the opposite shore, and it would be necessary to lighten our canoe, I determined to walk down on the Larboard Side with the 2 Chiefs, the interpreter, and his woman, and directed the small canoe to proceed down on the Larboard Side to the foot of the rapid, which was about 2 miles in length. I sent on the Indian Chiefs &c. down, and I ascended a high cliff about 200 feet above the water, from the top of which is a level plain extending up the river and off for a great extent. At this place the country becomes low on each side of the river and affords a prospect of the river and country below for a great extent both to the right and left.
From this place I discovered a high mountain of immense height covered with snow. This must be one of the mountains laid down by Vancouver as seen from the mouth of the Columbia River. From the course which it bears, which is West, I take it to be Mt. St. Helens, distant 156 miles. A range of mountains in that direction crosses, and a conical mountain S.W. is topped with snow. This rapid I observed, as I passed opposite to it, to be very bad, interspersed with high rock and small rocky islands. Here I observed banks of mussel shells banked up in the river in several places.
I delayed at the foot of the rapid about 2 hours for the canoes, which I could see met with much difficulty in passing down the rapid on the opposite side. In many places the men were obliged to get into the water and haul the canoes over shoals. While sitting on a rock waiting for Capt Lewis (Capt. Lewis), I shot a crane which was flying over, of the common kind. I observed a great number of lodges on the opposite side at some distance below, and several Indians on the opposite bank passing up to where Capt. Lewis was with the canoes. Others I saw on a knob nearly opposite to me, at which place they delayed but a short time before they returned to their lodges as fast as they could run.
I was fearful that those people might not be informed of us, so I determined to take the little canoe which was with me and proceed with the three men in it to the lodges. On my approach, not one person was to be seen except three men off in the plains, and they sheared off as I approached near the shore. I landed in front of five lodges which were at no great distance from each other. I saw no person; the entrances or doors of the lodges were shut with the same materials of which they were built—a mat. I approached one with a pipe in my hand and entered a lodge which was the nearest to me. I found 32 persons—men, women, and a few children—sitting promiscuously in the lodge, in the greatest agitation, some crying and wringing their hands, others hanging their heads. I gave my hand to them all and made signs of my friendly disposition, and offered the men my pipe to smoke and distributed a few small articles which I had in my pockets. This measure pacified those distressed people very much. I then sent one man into each lodge and entered a second myself, the inhabitants of which I found more frightened than those of the first lodge. I distributed sundry small articles amongst them and smoked with the men. I then entered the third, fourth, and fifth lodges, which I found somewhat pacified, the three men—Drewer (Drouillard), Jo. and R. Fields—having used every means in their power to convince them of our friendly disposition to them.
I then sat myself on a rock and made signs to the men to come and smoke with me. Not one came out until the canoes arrived with the 2 Chiefs, one of whom spoke aloud, and as was their custom to all we had passed, the Indians came out and sat by me and smoked. They said we came from the clouds &c. &c. and were not men &c. &c. At this time Capt. Lewis came down with the rear of the canoes, in which was the Indian woman. As soon as they saw the squaw, wife of the interpreter's, they pointed to her and informed those who continued yet in the same position I first found them. They immediately all came out and appeared to assume new life. The sight of this Indian woman, wife to one of our interpreters, confirmed those people of our friendly intentions, as no woman ever accompanies a war party of Indians in this quarter.
Capt Lewis (Capt. Lewis) joined us, and we smoked with those people in the greatest friendship, during which time one of our old chiefs informed them who we were, from whence we came, and where we were going, giving them a friendly account of us. These people do not speak precisely the same language of those above, but understand them. I saw several horses and persons on horseback in the plains. Many of the men, women, and children came up from the lodges below; all of them appeared pleased to see us. We traded some few articles for fish and berries, dined, and proceeded on, passing a small rapid and 15 lodges below the five, and camped below an island close under the Larboard Side, nearly opposite to 24 lodges on an island near the middle of the river, and the main Starboard Shore.
Soon after we landed, which was at a few willow trees, about 100 Indians came from the different lodges, and a number of them brought wood which they gave us. We smoked with all of them, and two of our party, Peter Crusat (Cruzatte) and Gibson, played on the violin, which delighted them greatly. We gave to the principal man a string of wampum and treated them kindly, for which they appeared grateful. This tribe can raise about 350 men. Their dress is similar to those at the fork, except their robes are smaller and do not reach lower than the waist, and three-quarters of them have scarcely any robes at all. The women have only a small piece of a robe which covers their shoulders and neck, reaching down behind to their waists, with a tight piece of leather about the waist. Their breasts are large and hang down very low, ill shaped; they have high cheeks, flattened heads, and but few ornaments. They are all employed in fishing and drying fish, of which they have great quantities on their scaffolds. Their habits, customs, &c., I could not learn. I killed a duck that, with the crane, afforded us a good supper. The Indians continued all night at our fires.
This day we made 36 miles.
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