Clark: October 21, 1805

October 21st 1805, Monday. A very cold morning. We set out early with wind from the S.W. We could not cook breakfast before we embarked, as usual, for want of wood or something to burn.

October 21st, Monday 1805. A very cool morning, wind from the S.W. We set out very early and proceeded on. Last night we could not collect more dry willows, the only fuel, than was barely sufficient to cook supper, and not enough to cook breakfast this morning. Passed a small island at 5½ miles, and a large one at 8 miles in the middle of the river, with some rapid water at its head and eight lodges of natives opposite its lower point on the starboard side. We came to at those lodges, bought some wood, and had breakfast. These people received us with great kindness and examined us with much attention. Their employments, customs, dress, and appearance are similar to those above; they speak the same language. Here we saw two scarlet and a blue cloth blanket, also a sailor's jacket. The dress of the men of this tribe is only a short robe of deer or goat skins, and that of the women is a short piece of dressed skin that falls from the neck so as to cover the front of the body as low as the waist, a short robe (which is of one deer or antelope skin), and a flap around their waist drawn tight between their legs, as before described. Their ornaments are but few, and worn as those above.

We got from these people a few pounded roots, fish, and acorns of the white oak. They make use of these acorns as food, and inform us they procure them from the natives who live near the falls below, which place they all describe by the term Timm. At 2 miles lower, we passed a rapid with large rocks of great size stringing into the river. Opposite this rapid on the starboard shore are two lodges of natives drying fish. Here we halted a few minutes to examine the rapid before we entered it, which was our constant custom; and at all that were very dangerous, we put out all who could not swim to walk around. After passing this rapid we proceeded on, passed another rapid 5 miles lower down. Above this rapid were five lodges of Indians fishing, etc. Above this rapid are many large rocks on each side at some distance from shore. One mile on, we passed an island close to the starboard side, below which are two lodges of natives. A little below is a bad rapid, crowded with huge rocks scattered in every direction, which renders the passage very difficult. A little above this rapid on the larboard side are immense piles of rocks that appear as if they had slipped from the cliffs under which they lay. We passed great numbers of rocks in every direction scattered in the river. There are 5 lodges a little below on the starboard side, and one lodge on an island near the starboard shore, opposite to which is a very bad rapid through which we found much difficulty in passing. The river is crowded with rocks in every direction. After passing this difficult rapid, we came to the mouth of a small river on the larboard side, 40 yards wide, which discharges but little water at this time and appears to take its source in the open plains to the S.E. From this place I perceived some few small pines on the tops of the high hills and bushes in the hollows. Immediately above and below this little river commences a rapid which is crowded with large rocks in every direction, the passage both crooked and difficult. We halted at a lodge to examine those numerous islands of rock which appeared to extend many miles below. Great numbers of Indians came in canoes to view us at this place. After passing this rapid, which we accomplished without loss, winding through between the huge rocks for about 2 miles—(from this rapid the Conocil mountain bears S.W., which the Indians inform me is not far to the left of the great falls; this I call the Timm or Falls mountain; it is high and the top is covered with snow)—immediately below the last rapids there are four lodges of Indians on the starboard side. We proceeded on about two miles lower and landed and camped near five lodges of natives drying fish. These are the relations of those at the Great Falls. They are poor and have but little wood, which they bring up the river from the falls, as they say. We purchased a little wood to cook our dog meat and fish. These people did not receive us at first with the same cordiality as those above. They appear to be the same nation, speaking the same language with a little corruption of many words; they dress and fish in the same way. All of them have pierced noses, and the men, when dressed, wear a long tapered piece of shell or bead put through the nose. This part of the river is furnished with fine springs, which either rise high up the sides of the hills or on the bottom near the river and run into the river. The hills are high and rugged, with a few scattering trees to be seen on them, either small pine or scrubby white oak.

The probable reason for the Indians residing on the starboard side of this river, as well as the waters of Lewis's River, is their fear of the Snake Indians, who reside, as the natives say, on a great river to the south, and are at war with these tribes. One of the old chiefs who accompanies us pointed out a place on the larboard side where they had a great battle not many years ago, in which many were killed on both sides. One of our party, J. Collins, presented us with some very good beer made of the Pashicoquarmash bread—which bread is the remains of what was laid in as stores of provisions at the first Flatheads or Chopunnish Nation at the head of the Kosskoske River, which by being frequently wet had molded and soured, etc. We made 33 miles today.