Great Falls Portage — John Ordway: June 26, 1805

verry rapid water & Camped on a narrow bottom on the Lard
Side.3
July 20th Saturday 1805. a clear morning we set out as usal
and proceeded on. about 8 o Clock A M we Came to a lower
part of the Mountain, one of the hunters killed an Elk in a
bottom on L. S. we find pleanty of ripe currents of different
kinds red yallow and black, the black is the most palatable.
Some of the hunters find an excelent berry which is called Servis
berrys. we found the Skin of an Elk & a note which Cap* [Clark]
had left for us, letting us know that he would wait our arival after
he got over the Mountain. passed a Small creek on the L. S.4
about 2 oC. P. M. we got through this range of Mon Saw another
range some distance off on our course. Saw a Smoak in the
valley between, we cannot determine whether is [it] was made
by the natives or Cap4 Clark, passed a level Smooth plain in the
valley. Some timber Scatering along the River. Came 15
miles this day and Camped at a Spring on the L. S.5 the prickley
pears are so thick we scarsely could find room to camp without
being on them.
July 218t Sunday 1805. a clear morning, we Set out as usal
and proceeded on. Saw a nomber of large Swans. Some of the
1 Twelve hundred feet, according to Lewis. Since reaching Dearborn River
(July 18) the party has been traversing the Big Belt Mountains.
2 Still known by this name. Lewis endeavors to describe the scenic wonders
of the place. In Wheeler’s opinion (I, 350) he fails, however, to do his sub-
ject justice. “I have made two trips exploring the recesses and enjoying the
glories of the Gates of the Mountains,” writes the latter, “and I can vouch
for almost any description that can be written of this canon — it would be hard
to say too much.”
3 The camp w;is half ;i mile below Cone Rock, near the 2,445 mile point of
the river.
4 Shown on the M. R. C. map as Beaver Creek.
6 “Near El Dorado, about twelve miles northeast of Helena.” Thwaites,
II. 252, note 1.
1805] SERGEANT ORDWAY’S JOURNAL 251
men killed two of them. passed a small creek on the Lard Side1
and one on the Starbord Side.2 the grass in the valley and on
the hills look dry and pearched up. passed a hill & clifts of rocks
in the afternoon the River divides in many channels and full of
Islands and Spreads about a mile wide, the current Swift, our
hunter on shore killed a deer, we Came 15| miles this day and
Camped on a Smooth plain on the Larbord Side.3 the party in
general are much fatigued.
July 22nd Monday 1805. a clear morning, we Set out as
usal and proceeded on passed large Islands mostly covered with
grass Some fiew trees, the currents Still abound. Some of the
canoes I being [in] one went 5 miles behind an Island through a
verry narrow crooked channel, these large Islands are mostly
level Smooth plain, one of the hunters killed a deer, about 2
oC. P. M. we halted to dine on the N. or Stard Side then went
on Cap1 Lewis forgot his Thurmometer where we dined I went
back for it. it Stood in the heat of the day at 80 degrees ab° 0,
which has only been up to that point but once before this Season
as yet. we went on took a narrow channel behind some Islands
and at Camping time I came out a head of the party nearly a
mile, then went down to Camp.4 Cap1 Clark had joined them,
and his men who were with him. they had seen a great deal
of Indian sign the fire we saw was made by the natives, perhaps
they were alarmed by our Shouting so at the game and moved off.
our Intrepters wife tells us that She knows the country along the
River up to hir nation, or the 3 forks, we are now 166 miles
from the falls of the M.5 Came 17 miles of it to day.
July 23rd Tuesday 1805. Cap* Clark and 3 men set out again
in order to go on to the 3 forks of the River expecting to find the
Snake nation at that place, a little cloudy, the Musquetoes
verry troublesome, we proceeded on as usal. passed level
smooth plains on each side. passd a Small creek6 on L. Side.
1 Probably Soup Creek at the 2,459 mile point of the river.
2 Named in honor of Sergeant Pryor. Coues identifies it as modern Mitchell
Creek.
3 In the southeastern corner of Lewis and Clark County, a short distance
above Canyon Ferry.
4 The camp was in Broadwater County, 2f miles above the mouth of Beaver
Creek. This stream the explorers named White Earth Creek.
B About 155 miles, according to the M. R. C. map, from the upper or Great
Fall.
6 Named by Lewis in honor of Whitehouse. Wheeler identifies it as either
modern Confederate or Duck Creek, the two flowing into the Missouri almost
252 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS [July 24
passed a nomber of Islands, considerable of good flax now fit to
pull in the praries & bottoms, the Thissels pleanty. the pine
continues on the sides of the hills, our hunter who stayed out
last night joined us at noon had killed several deer, we dryed
some articles which got wet in the canoes, we hoisted up our
flags expecting the natives would see them & know the meaning
of them, the current verry Swift, we Came 24 miles this day &
Camped on the Larbord Side.1 we find pleanty of wild Inions
or what some calls leeks, or garlick. we gathered a quantity of
them to eat.
July 24th Wednesday 1805. a clear pleasant morning we set
out at sun rise and proceeded on. the current Swift, we found
a goat or antelopes Skin which Cap* Clark killed and left for us.
we passed a redish clift of rocks on Stard Side in the afternoon
we passed a large plain on the Stard Side, the prickley pears
abound on it Saw otter and beaver in great abundance &. C.
the Swift water continues some bad rapids which it is with
difficulty we passed over them. Saw many different kinds of
Snakes along the Shores, we Came 19§ miles this day and
Camped on the Stard. Side.2 one deer killed to day. a white
bear seen, considerable of Elk sign &. C.
July 25th Thursday 1805. a clear morning, we set out as
usal and proceeded on. Saw a large white bear on an Island,
we Saw a flock of goats or antelopes one of the hunters killed
one them, we passed a Camp where Cap1 Clark had stayed all
night, we discover Mountains a head which have Spots of Snow
on them, passed a large dry plain on S. Side, in the afternoon we
passed high rough rocky hills & clifts of rocks, at the entrence
we found bad rapids, and Shallow rocks sticking up all the way
across. Saw excelent Springs along the Shore on Larbord Side.
Saw Some excelent Springs, which ran from under the clifts of
together. Confederate Creek is said to have been discovered by some soldiers
from General Price’s army, who in 1861 fled up the Missouri River. A few
miles above its mouth was located, in 1865, Confederate Gulch, and the min-
ing town of Diamond City.
1 Coues locates the camp “below Bedford.” Lewis’ measurements for the
day would place it in the vicinity of Townsend. In any event it was in central
Broadwater County.
2 “our trio of pests still invade and obstruct us on all occasions, these
are the Musquetoes eye knats and prickley pears, equal to any three curses
thai ever poor Egypt laiboured under, except the Mahometan!; yoke.” Lewis.
Cones places the camp past Greyson’s Creek and near Dry Creek.
1805] SERGEANT ORDWAY’S JOURNAL 253
rocks.1 Came 16 miles this day and Camped on the Stard Side.2
our hunters killed one goose which was all the game killed to day.
July 26th Friday 1805. a clear morning, we set out as usal
and proceeded on. the current verry swift. Saw Several Springs
along the Shore, one of the party killed a large beaver, pleanty
of those animels along the Islands and Shores. Saw Some pine
& ceeder timber also Some cotton timber passed clifts of rocks
on each Side of the River the hills make off lower, we can dis-
cover high mountains a head, with Snow on them The River
wide and full of Islands, passed over Several bad rapids, our
hunter on Shore killed 4 deer, we found an Indians bow in a
plain on L. S. took on board a deer skin which Cap* Clark had
left on Shore for us. also a note letting us know that he had seen
no Indians, but had Seen fresh Sign of horses &. C. we Came
19 miles this day, and Camped on the Lard Side.3 the party
found Servis berrys to day &. C.
July 27th Saturday 1805. a clear morning, we Set off as
usal and proceeded on. the current Swift as usal. passed clifts
of rocks, villages of little birds under the Shelveing rocks, the
hills not so high as below, the currents abound along the Shores,
about 9 oClock we arived at the three forks of the Missourie,4
which is in open view of the high Mountains covered in some places
with Snow. Saw large flocks of Mountain Sheep or Ibex and
antelopes &. C. on the plain, we passed the South & west forks,
and Camped at an old Indian Camp on the point a Short dis-
tance up the North fork.5 this is a handsom pleasant plain
considerable of cotton timber about the points of the forks, we
unloaded the canoes. Several men went out in the bottoms to
hunt. Cap1 Clark joined us and the men who were with him.
he informed us that he had been about 40 miles up the West
1 These form the Mammoth Spring of the present time. Wheeler.
2 A mile above Mammoth Spring, in the vicinity of Lombard, in southern
Broadwater County.
3 At “a rock in the center of a Larbd bend opposite to 2 Islds.” Lewis.
According to Wheeler this is modern Eagle Rock, ten miles above the mouth
of Sixteen Mile Creek.
4 Named Gallatin, Madison, and Jefferson rivers, in honor of President Jeffer-
son and his secretary of state (James Madison) and secretary of the treasury
(Albert Gallatin). The names thus given by the explorers, 110 years ago, still
persist.
6 The “south” and “west” forks of Ordway are, respectively, Gallatin and
Madison rivers. The “north” fork is Jefferson River. The camp was pitched
a mile up Jefferson from its confluence with Madison River.
254 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS [July 28
fork and over to the North fork and came down that to the forks.1
they had killed several deer antelopes and a cub bear. Cap*
Clark verry unwell, he had Seen a large elagant horse in the
plains which appeared to be verry wild, the hunters killed Several
or 6 deer, and 3 otter and a musk rat. we had a Shower of rain
this afternoon, came 7 mh to day, which brought us to this
Camp where we intend to rest a day or two.2 we expected to
have found the Snake nation of Indians at this place, but as we
expect they are further up the River, or perhaps they are gone
over the mountains to the Columbian River on the other side to
fish &. C. this is the place where our Intrepters wife was taken
prisoner by the Grossvauntars, about 4 years ago, &. C.
July 28th Sunday 1805. a foggy morning, but clear after.
Several men went out a hunting, we put out the baggage to air.
Cap* Clark Sick, we built a bower for his comfort, the party
though much fatigued are engaged dressing Skins to make them-
selves cloaths and mockasons &. C. towards evening the hunters
all returned had killed 7 or 8 deer and 2 Elk. Some of the buck
deer were fat. one of the hunters who had been up the South
[Gallatin] fork a Short distance, and found it not so large as the
West [Madison] & N. [Jefferson] forks, we conclude to proceed
up the North fork to the Mountains, towards evening we had
a fine Shower of rain. Some Thunder attended it which cooled
the air verry much, the men at Camp all employed dressing
their Skins &. C. rushes along here.
July 29th Monday 1805. a clear pleasant morning. Several
men went out eairly a hunting we conclude to lay at this Camp
all day & C. Cap* Clark a little better, the day warm, the
wind from the east. The Latitude at this place is 45° 22m 34s fo
North, the width of the three Rivers at the forks we alow the
North fork to be about 60 y6* wide the middle fork about the Same
the South fork not So wide nor large, all appear rapid but not
verry deep, towards evening the hunters returned had killed
2 or 3 fat bucks deer, and caught a curious redish couloured long
leged crain which they brought in a live, and it ran about the
Camp Some time & C.
1 Ordway’s method <>f designating the several affluent streams is not entirely
tree from confusion. (Hark had ascended Jefferson River, and. crossing thence
to -Madison, had descended the latter stream.
2 “beleiving this to be an essential point in the geography of this western
pari of the Continent I determined to remain at all events untill I obtained
I lie necessary data for fixing its latitude Longitude &C.” Lewis.
1805] SERGEANT ORDWAY’S JOURNAL 255
July 30th Tuesday 1805. a fine pleasant morning, we loaded
all the canoes eairly and Set out about 9 oClock A. M. and pro-
ceeded on up the North fork Cap* Lewis and Several Inveleeds
walked on Shore, we passed large bottoms covered with cotten
timber & thick brush willow & C. the River crooked rapid and
full of Islands & C. a bundance of beaver & beaver dams along
these these bottoms, thee currents of different kinds abound in
these bottoms, we dined at a Camp where the Snake Indians
had been camped 4 years ago, and was aatacted by the Gross
vauntars. 2 or three of the Snake nation was killed, and Several
Squaws taken prisoners our Intrepters wife was one of them.
She tells us that she was taken in the middle of the River as She
was crossing at a Shole place to make hir ascape. the rest all
mounted their horses and cleared themselves as they do not wish
to fite, neither were they Strong enofe for the Grossvauntares,
one of the hunters on Shore killed a Deer, we proceeded on
passed a verry large plain or prarie on L. S. considerable of fine
good flax on it, also wild onions or garlick. passed high land
on S. Side we Came 13^ miles this day and Camped on the Stard
Side1 Cap* Lewis did not join us this evening, these bottoms
along the River are low and many beaver dams which causes
ponds in many places & C.
July 31st Wednesday 1805. Cap1 Lewis Stayed out all last
night, a fine morning, we set off at sunrise and proceeded on as
usal. the current Swift, about 8 oClock A. M. we came up with
with Cap* Lewis where he Camped all last night, proceeded on
passed the mouth of a creek2 on the Lard Side, the water of which
is of a redish coulour, and is darned up in many places by the
beaver, and runs through a beautiful prarie and bottom of Small
timber, the beaver verry pleanty along these bottoms, the
River filled with Islands, passed a large plain or prarie on L. S.
covered with fine grass Tanzey flax and thissels, wild onions or
garlick &. C. considerable of cotton timber along the River
bottoms, but no timber back in the country the hills begin to
make near the River on each Sides, we dined under a handsom
Shady grove of cotton timber under the hills of the Mountains to
our left which has heaps of Snow on the top & sides of it. Cap*
Clark Saw a Mountain Sheep thro, [his] glass on a hill towards the
1 In southeastern Jefferson County, about a mile below the mouth of modern
Willow Creek.
2 “This stream we call River Philosophy.” Lewis. Now called Willow
Creek.
256 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS [Aug. 1
mo. the Game is now gitting Scarse. we are now with out fresh
meat which is verry uncommon to us, for we have generally had
double as much as we could eat. the day very warm we proceeded
on passed clifts of rocks and high wales [walls] &. C. Some
pine and ceeder timber along the hill Sides. Some of the hills
nearly a solid rock, we Came 17f miles and Camped on a small
Island on the Lard Side.1 our hunter on Shore wounded a White
bear, but did not kill it dead.