Great Falls of the Missouri — Joseph Whitehouse: June 20, 1805

Somewhat cloudy and cold. The wind continues high from the west. Three or four men went across the river to hunt. We stayed at camp at the start of the portage to wait for the arrival of Capt Clark (Capt. Clark) and his party. A light squall of rain came about noon. In the afternoon some of the hunters came in; they had killed 11 buffalo, most of them very fat. All hands turned out after the meat, but could not fetch more than half of what was fat. Three men stayed all night to butcher the remainder of the buffalo, which lay dead. They saw large herds come up close to the men who were dressing the meat. A little rain fell. In the evening Capt Clark and his party returned.

They informed us that they had traveled along the river going up and measured the falls and river. They found the first to be about 30 feet, the highest or middle 87 feet, and the upper one 45 feet, all of which are perpendicular, with continuous rapids between each one. They found it to be 17 miles to the head, to where we can take to the water again. Two men were attacked by a very large white bear, and one of them, A. Willard, came near to being caught. Capt Clark went with three men to rescue them, but night was coming on and the bushes were thick, it being on an island, so they did not kill it. They saw one or two other white bears. They also saw innumerable herds of buffalo and killed 8 of those animals, and one beaver. They saved as much of the buffalo meat as possible.

One mile above the fall of 47 feet 8 inches is the largest fountain or spring, which they think is the largest in America known. This water boils up from under the rocks near the river and falls immediately into the river 8 feet, and keeps its color for half a mile, being clear and of a bluish cast. They inform us that there are many chutes or little falls between the high ones. The large cataract or falls makes a great mist all across the fall, extending for a long distance from them. Capt Clark saw rattlesnakes but saw very little timber. They turned back this morning in order to look out the best and smoothest portage possible to take the canoes and baggage up to the Medicine River. They informed us that the country above the falls and up the Medicine River is level, with low banks and smooth water. They saw a chain of mountains to the west, some of which, particularly those to the northwest and southwest, are covered with snow and appear to be very high. Capt Clark lost a part of his notes, which could not be found, as the wind blew high and carried them off. They did not look out and mark the road for the baggage much more than halfway down to camp, it being too late to go around the deep gullies. Capt Clark saw herds of buffalo attempt to swim the river above the falls. Some made it across.

Chapter IX — Portaging Around the Great Falls, June 21–July 14, 1805

June 21st, Friday 1805. Fine morning, the wind from the southwest off the mountains and blowing hard. Capt Lewis with the men, except a few, took part of the baggage and a canoe up the hill better than a mile in advance. Several men were employed in shaving and graining elk hides for the iron boat, as it is called. The meat was brought in, and the men who had stayed out to dress the buffalo last night returned. They killed two or three deer, a buffalo calf, and a small elk. We saw innumerable numbers and herds of buffalo and calves on the high plains on the starboard side of the Missouri.