Great Falls of the Missouri — John Ordway: June 20, 1805
High winds blew from the west off the mountains, with light rain at midday. Four hunters sent across the river killed eleven mostly fat buffalo, and the camp turned out to retrieve the meat. Captain Clark returned late in the afternoon from surveying the Great Falls, reporting cataracts of 87, 47, and roughly 30 feet, plus numerous smaller falls and rapids stretching 17 miles. He also described an enormous spring he believed the largest in America, an attack by a white bear on Willard, vast buffalo herds, and lost notes.
the wind continues high from the west off the mountains. 4 men
Sent across the river to hunt, a light Sprinkling of rain about
noon, we are now waiting the arival of Cap* Clark, late in the
afternoon 2 of the hunters came in and informed us that they had
got 11 buffalow killed & the most of them fat. the other 2 Stayed
1 Modern Sun River. It rises in the Rocky Mountains near the continental
divide and flows in an easterly direction to its junction with the Missouri just
above the city of Great Falls. Sun River was discovered by Lewis on June
14, in the course of his advance excursion up the Missouri. Previous informa-
tion concerning it had been received from the Indians at Fort Mandan, how-
ever, and Medicine River was the name by which they knew it.
234 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS [June 20
to butcher, all hands in Camp turned out for the meat, &
brought about the half of what was fat 3 men Stayed all night to
dress the remainder, verry large gangs all around the place within
Shot of the butchers &. C. a light Sprinkling of rain, late in the
evening Cap* Clark and party returned to Camp they informed
us that they traversed & measured the River and falls, as they
went up. measured all the Small or little falls which were common
& of different hites. the highest catteract or falls is 87 feet per-
pinticular. the next highest 47 feet 8 Inch the next or 3rd about
30 or upwards, a nomber of Small ones & a continued rapid the
whole way for 17 miles to where we can take water again, those
large falls all have a mist which rises about 200 yards from the
Shoot, about a mile above the falls of 47 feet 8 Inches, the largest
fountan or Spring falls in that we ever Saw before and it is the
oppinion of Cap1 Clark that it is the largest Spring in america
known, this water boils up from under the rocks near the River
& falls immediately in to the river 8 feet & keeps its colour for
| a mile, which is verry clear and of a blueish cast &. C.1 two
of Cap* Clarks party was attacted by a large White bear on an
Island near where they had camped one night, one of them A.
Willard like to have been caught, the other [was] chased in the
water after Willard made his ascape towards camp. Cap4 Clark
and 3 others went to their assistance, the bear ratreated. night
came on the bushes thick. So they did not kill him, they Saw
but little timber, the country up the medicine River above the
falls is level with low banks, they Saw a chain of Mountains to
the West Some of which perticular those to the N. W. and S. W.
are covered with Snow, and appear to be verry high, they turned
back in order to look out the levelest way for the portage. Cap4
Clark lost a part of his notes which could not be found. Cap*
Clark Saw a rattle Snake out in the plains a long distance from
timber or water, they Saw verry large innumerable quantyties of
buffalow while they were gone, they killed 7 buffalow & Saved as
much of the meat as possable. killed a beaver also, they Saw
buffalow attempt to Swim the River above the falls. Some of
which was sucked over and seen no more, great numbers of those
animels are lost in these falls which is the cause of our Seeing So
many below for a long distance washed up on Shore. Some make
the Shore above the falls half dronded.
1 For further information about this fountain see post, Ordway’s entry for
June 27 and 238, note 1.
1805] SERGEANT ORDWAY’S JOURNAL 235
June 21st Friday 1805. a fine cool morning, the wind from the
S. W. off the mountains and hard. Cap* Lewis with the men
excep* a fiew took a part of the baggage & a canoe up a hill on to
the plain above a mile in advance. Several men employed in
Shaveing & graneing Elk hides for the Iron boat as it is called,
the remainder of the meat which was dressed last night was
brought in this morning & the men returned Some of them had
killed 2 or 3 deer & a buffalow calf and a Small Elk. we Saw
thousands of buffalow on the high lands the calfs verry numerous
among them they come in gangs to the river to drink &. C.
June 22nd Saturday 1805. a clear pleasant morning, the wind as
usal the party all raised eairly the 2 Captains with all but 3
of the party1 set out with more baggage to take the canoe and
loading we took on the plains yesterday up to the upper end of
the portage to where we can take water again with the canoes.
Cap* Lewis and 3 more of the party who went took their baggage
all in order to Stay at the upper Camp to prepare whatever may
be necessary for the Iron boat, &. C. large gangs of buffalow
all around the lower camp to day. one gang swam the river near
the camp Cap* Clarks Servant York killed one of them, a light
Sprinkling of rain, the country in general is verry high land, no
timber back a little Scatering along the Shore on the points &.
C. high bluffs & clifts along the Shores. Some pine in the drift
wood along the Shores, we are a little South of the Mandans
but have had cold weather as yet. it must of course be a healthy
country, we all enjoy good health as yet. our Interpreter wounded
a cabberee or antilope this evening.
June 23rd Sunday 1805. a cloudy morning, the wind from
East, a light Sprinkling of rain, in the afternoon one of the
hunters came to the lower camp from the medicine River, he
informed us that George Shannon left them the Same day they
Stearted from this, & they could not account where he went. The
other 2 hunters had killed 16 buffalow and 5 deer but no Elk.
1 From Lewis we learn that Ordway, Goodrich, Charbonneau, York, and
Sacajawea were left behind in the camp. The last two Ordway’s statement
ignores. His journal for today deals with events in the camp, of which he had
charge. Until the reunion of the party after the portage shall have been accom-
plished full knowledge of its doings can be gained only by a comparison of the
several journals that have come down to us. In general it may be said that
Lewis devoted himself mainly to work on the iron boat, while Clark attended
chiefly to the transportation of the outfit across the portage.
236 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS [June 24
they had dryed considerable of the buffalow meat at their Camp.1
in the evening Cap1 Clark & party returned to the lower Camp,
they informed us that they had Some difficulty, the truck
wheels, or some part of them broke several times &.C. the tongue
broke near the upper Camp & they were obledged to leave it and
formed the Camp about 3 miles above the Medicine River. Cap*
Clark Straightened the road considerable from that he went on
yesterday, they took 2 canoes up the hill from the creek this
evening, the men mended their mockisons with double Soles to
Save their feet from the prickley pear (which abound in the
plains) and the hard ground [which] in many places is so hard as to
hurt our feet verry much, the emence numbers of buffalow after
the last rain has trod the flat places in Such a manner as to
leave them uneaven, and dryed as hard as frozen Ground, the
men all much fatigued this evening &.2 the distance Staked out
for the portage is 18| miles from the lower Camp or lower rapid.
June 24th Monday 1805. a cloudy morning, all hands rose
eairly. had hailed the remaining canoe out of the water to dry.
we divided the baggage in to 3 percels, one of which the party
took on their backs and one waggon with truck wheels, to the
canoes 3 miles in advance [and] loaded and proceeded on with 2
canoes being in 2 parties, put the baggage in to the canoes &
went on verry well to the creek called willow creek.3 one of the
waggon tongues broke which detained us a Short time, then pro-
ceeded on towards evening when we got within about three miles
of the upper Camp, a volent Shower arose from the N. W. hard
thunder caught us in a verry hard rain So that in a fiew minutes
1 Shannon, Drewyer, and Reuben Fields had been sent on June 19 to Medi-
cine River to hunt. From then until June 23, the captains did not hear “a
sentence” from them. On the latter date Lewis, having gained the camp at
the upper end of the portage, set out in search of the hunters. Five miles up
Medicine River he found Shannon alone; the latter had parted from his com-
panions at the Great Falls at noon of June 19, and had not seen them since,
having busied himself in hunting on Medicine River “as he had been directed.”
The anxiety of Fields and Drewyer, whose report to Clark, Ordway notes, was
probably due in large part to Shannon’s habit of gelling lost.
•From Lewis We get this picture of their hardships: “at every halt these poor
fellows tumble down and are so much fatiegued that many of them are asleep in
an instant; in short their fatiegues are incredible; some are limping from the
soreness of their feet, others faint and unable to stand for a few minutes, with
heat and faticgue, yet no one complains, all go with cheerfullncss.”
i Modern Box Elder Creek, which the party met with about midway of
the portage. It enters the Missouri about four miles above the mouth of Belt
Creek.
1805] SERGEANT ORDWAY’S JOURNAL 237
the ground was covered with water. So that we got a hearly a
hearty drink of water in the holes & puddles &.C. the rain con-
tinued about half an hour, at dusk we arived at the upper Camp
all wet and much fatigued. Cap1 Lewis revived us with a dram,
we found Shannon their who had been up the medicine River
hunting, he had killed 3 buffalow 8 Deer several antelopes but
no Elk. the wind was considerable assistance to us in the course
of the day, as we were drawing the canoes the wind being Suffi-
cently hard at times to move the canoe on the Trucks, this is
Saleing on dry land in everry Sence of the word.1
Read this entry in modern English AI-translated
The wind continues high from the west off the mountains. 4 men sent across the river to hunt. A light sprinkling of rain about noon. We are now waiting for the arrival of Capt Clark (Capt. Clark). Late in the afternoon 2 of the hunters came in and informed us that they had killed 11 buffalo, and most of them fat. The other 2 stayed to butcher. All hands in camp turned out for the meat, and brought about half of what was fat. 3 men stayed all night to dress the remainder. Very large herds were all around the place within shot of the butchers, etc. A light sprinkling of rain.
Late in the evening Capt Clark and party returned to camp. They informed us that they had traversed and measured the river and falls as they went up. They measured all the small or little falls, which were common and of different heights. The highest cataract or falls is 87 feet perpendicular. The next highest, 47 feet 8 inches. The next, or 3rd, about 30 or upwards. There are a number of small ones and a continued rapid the whole way for 17 miles to where we can take water again. Those large falls all have a mist which rises about 200 yards from the chute.
About a mile above the falls of 47 feet 8 inches, the largest fountain or spring we ever saw before falls in, and it is the opinion of Capt Clark that it is the largest spring in America known. This water boils up from under the rocks near the river and falls immediately into the river 8 feet, and keeps its color for a mile, which is very clear and of a bluish cast, etc.
Two of Capt Clark's party were attacked by a large white bear on an island near where they had camped one night. One of them, A. Willard, was nearly caught; the other was chased into the water after Willard made his escape towards camp. Capt Clark and 3 others went to their assistance. The bear retreated. Night came on and the bushes were thick, so they did not kill him. They saw but little timber. The country up the Medicine River above the falls is level with low banks. They saw a chain of mountains to the west, some of which, particularly those to the N.W. and S.W., are covered with snow and appear to be very high. They turned back in order to look out the most level way for the portage. Capt Clark lost a part of his notes which could not be found. Capt Clark saw a rattlesnake out in the plains a long distance from timber or water. They saw very large innumerable quantities of buffalo while they were gone. They killed 7 buffalo and saved as much of the meat as possible. They killed a beaver also. They saw buffalo attempt to swim the river above the falls; some of them were sucked over and seen no more. Great numbers of those animals are lost in these falls, which is the cause of our seeing so many below for a long distance washed up on shore. Some make the shore above the falls half drowned.
June 21st Friday 1805. A fine cool morning. The wind from the S.W. off the mountains and hard. Capt Lewis (Capt. Lewis) with the men except a few took a part of the baggage and a canoe up a hill onto the plain about a mile in advance. Several men were employed in shaving and graining elk hides for the iron boat, as it is called. The remainder of the meat which was dressed last night was brought in this morning, and the men returned. Some of them had killed 2 or 3 deer, and a buffalo calf, and a small elk. We saw thousands of buffalo on the high lands, the calves very numerous among them. They come in herds to the river to drink, etc.
June 22nd Saturday 1805. A clear pleasant morning. The wind as usual. The party all rose early. The 2 captains with all but 3 of the party set out with more baggage to take the canoe and loading we took onto the plains yesterday up to the upper end of the portage, to where we can take water again with the canoes. Capt Lewis and 3 more of the party who went took their baggage in order to stay at the upper camp to prepare whatever may be necessary for the iron boat, etc. Large herds of buffalo all around the lower camp today. One herd swam the river near the camp. Capt Clark's servant York killed one of them. A light sprinkling of rain. The country in general is very high land, no timber back a little, scattering along the shore on the points, etc. High bluffs and cliffs along the shores. Some pine in the driftwood along the shores. We are a little south of the Mandans, but have had cold weather as yet. It must of course be a healthy country. We all enjoy good health as yet. Our interpreter wounded a cabri or antelope this evening.
June 23rd Sunday 1805. A cloudy morning. The wind from east. A light sprinkling of rain. In the afternoon one of the hunters came to the lower camp from the Medicine River. He informed us that George Shannon left them the same day they started from this, and they could not account for where he went. The other 2 hunters had killed 16 buffalo and 5 deer, but no elk. They had dried a considerable amount of the buffalo meat at their camp.
In the evening Capt Clark and party returned to the lower camp. They informed us that they had had some difficulty: the truck wheels, or some part of them, broke several times, etc. The tongue broke near the upper camp and they were obliged to leave it, and formed the camp about 3 miles above the Medicine River. Capt Clark straightened the road considerably from that he went on yesterday. They took 2 canoes up the hill from the creek this evening. The men mended their moccasins with double soles to save their feet from the prickly pear (which abound in the plains) and the hard ground, which in many places is so hard as to hurt our feet very much. The immense numbers of buffalo, after the last rain, have trod the flat places in such a manner as to leave them uneven, and dried as hard as frozen ground. The men were all much fatigued this evening. The distance staked out for the portage is 18½ miles from the lower camp or lower rapid.
June 24th Monday 1805. A cloudy morning. All hands rose early. We had hauled the remaining canoe out of the water to dry. We divided the baggage into 3 parcels, one of which the party took on their backs, and one wagon with truck wheels to the canoes 3 miles in advance, loaded, and proceeded on with 2 canoes, being in 2 parties. We put the baggage into the canoes and went on very well to the creek called Willow Creek. One of the wagon tongues broke, which detained us a short time. Then we proceeded on towards evening, when we got within about three miles of the upper camp. A violent shower arose from the N.W. with hard thunder, and caught us in a very hard rain, so that in a few minutes the ground was covered with water. So we got a hearty drink of water in the holes and puddles, etc. The rain continued about half an hour. At dusk we arrived at the upper camp all wet and much fatigued. Capt Lewis revived us with a dram. We found Shannon there, who had been up the Medicine River hunting. He had killed 3 buffalo, 8 deer, several antelopes, but no elk. The wind was considerable assistance to us in the course of the day, as we were drawing the canoes, the wind being sufficiently hard at times to move the canoe on the trucks. This is sailing on dry land in every sense of the word.
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