Lewis: July 15, 1806

15 July 1806. Sent McNeal down this morning to the lower part of the portage to see whether the large pirogue and cache were safe. Drewyer (Drouillard) returned without the horses and reported that he had tracked them to beyond our camp of the

Tuesday July 15th 1806. Dispatched McNeal early this morning to the lower part of the portage in order to learn whether the cache and white pirogue remained untouched, or in what state they were. The men were employed in drying the meat, dressing deerskins, and preparing for the reception of the canoes. At 1 P.M. Drewyer (Drouillard) returned without the horses and reported that after a diligent search of 2 days he had discovered where the horses had passed Dearborn's river, at which place there were 15 lodges that had been abandoned about the time our horses were taken. He pursued the tracks of a number of horses from these lodges to the road which we had traveled over the mountains, which they struck about 3 miles south of our encampment of the 7th instant, and had pursued this road westwardly. I have no doubt but they are a party of the Tushapahs (Tushepaws) who have been on a buffalo hunt. Drewyer informed me that their camp was in a small bottom on the river of about 5 acres, enclosed by the steep, rocky, and lofty cliffs of the river, and that so closely had they kept themselves and horses within this little spot that there was not a track to be seen of them within a quarter of a mile of that place. Every spire of grass was eaten up by their horses near their camp, which had the appearance of their having remained here some time. His horse being much fatigued with the ride he had given him, and finding that the Indians had at least 2 days the start of him, he thought it best to return. His safe return has relieved me from great anxiety. I had already settled it in my mind that a white bear had killed him, and should have set out tomorrow in search of him, and if I could not find him, to continue my route to Maria's river. I knew that if he met with a bear in the plains, even he would attack him, and that if any accident should happen to separate him from his horse in that situation, the chances in favor of his being killed would be as 9 to 10. I felt so perfectly satisfied that he had returned in safety that I thought but little of the horses, although they were seven of the best I had. This loss, great as it is, is not entirely irreparable, or at least does not defeat my design of exploring Maria's river. I have yet 10 horses remaining, two of the best and two of the worst of which I leave to assist the party in taking the canoes and baggage over the portage, and take the remaining 6 with me. These are but indifferent horses, most of them, but I hope they may answer our purposes. I shall leave three of my intended party (viz., Gass, Frazier, and Werner), and take the two Fieldses and Drewyer (Drouillard). By having two spare horses we can relieve those we ride. Having made this arrangement, I gave orders for an early departure in the morning. Indeed I should have set out instantly, but McNeal rode one of the horses which I intend to take and has not yet returned. A little before dark McNeal returned with his musket broken off at the breech, and informed me that on his arrival at Willow Run he had approached a white bear within ten feet without discovering him, the bear being in the thick brush. The horse took the alarm and, turning short, threw him immediately under the bear. This animal raised himself on his hinder feet for battle, and gave him time to recover from his fall, which he did in an instant; and with his clubbed musket he struck the bear over the head and cut him with the guard of the gun, and broke off the breech. The bear, stunned with the stroke, fell to the ground and began to scratch his head with his feet. This gave McNeal time to climb a willow tree which was near at hand, and thus fortunately made his escape. The bear waited at the foot of the tree until late in the evening before he left him, when McNeal ventured down and caught his horse, which had by this time strayed off to the distance of 2 miles, and returned to camp. These bears are a most tremendous animal. It seems that the hand of providence has been most wonderfully in our favor with respect to them, or some of us would long since have fallen a sacrifice to their ferocity. There seems to be a certain fatality attached to the neighborhood of these falls, for there is always a chapter of accidents prepared for us during our residence at them. The mosquitoes continue to infest us in such manner that we can scarcely exist. For my own part, I am confined by them to my bier at least 3/4 of my time. My dog even howls with the torture he experiences from them. They are almost insupportable; they are so numerous that we frequently get them in our throats as we breathe.