Clark: October 12, 1804

12th of October, Friday. After breakfast we joined the chiefs and Indians on the bank who were waiting for us, and proceeded to the first village and lodge of the Pocasse. This man spoke at some length, to the same purpose as the first chief, and declared his intentions of visiting his great father. With some doubts as to his safety in passing the Sioux, he requested us to take a chief of their nation and make a good peace with the Mandan for them, since they knew that they were the cause of the war by killing the two Mandan chiefs. This chief and his people gave us about 7 bushels of corn, some tobacco of their own make, and seed, leggings, and a robe.

We proceeded to the third chief's village, which is the largest. After the usual ceremony of eating and smoking, he spoke to nearly the same effect as the last chief, and more pleasantly. He gave us 10 bushels of corn, some beans and simmins (squash). After he had spoken, and I gave some sketches of the power and magnitude of our country, we returned to our boat. I have rheumatism in my neck. The chiefs accompanied us on board. We gave them some sugar, salt, and a sun glass each, and after eating a little they returned on shore, leaving one to accompany us to the Mandans. We set out, viewed by men, women, and children of each village, proceeded on about 9 1/2 miles, and camped on the south side. Clear and cold.

The Ricaras (Arikaras) are about 500 men—Mr. Tabeau says 600 able to bear arms—and are the remains of ten different tribes of Panias (Pawnees) reduced by smallpox and wars with the Sioux. They are tall, stout men, coarsely featured. Their women are small and industrious, raising great quantities of corn, beans, etc., also tobacco for the men to smoke. They collect all the wood and do the drudgery common among savages.

Their language is so corrupted that many lodges of the same village have difficulty understanding all that each other says. They are dirty, kind, poor, and extravagant; possessing natural pride; no beggars; they receive what is given them with pleasure. Their houses are close together and the towns are enclosed with pickets. Their lodges are 30 to 40 feet in diameter, covered with earth on neat poles set endwise resting on 4 forks supporting beams set in a square form near the center, and lower (about 5 feet high) other forks all around supporting strong beams—from 8 to 10 of those—with an opening at top of about 5 to 6 feet square. On the poles which pass to the top, small willow and grass is put across to support the earth.

The Sioux exchange some merchandise of small value, which they get from Mr. Cameron of St. Peters, for corn, etc., and have great influence over this people; they treat them roughly and keep them in continual dread. The Ricaras are at war with the Crow Indians and Mandans, etc.

The Ricaras have a custom similar to the Sioux in many instances. They think they cannot show a sufficient acknowledgment to their guest without offering handsome squaws, and think they are despised if they are not received.

The Sioux followed us with women for two days; we put them off. The Ricarees we put off during the time we were near their village. Two were sent by a man to follow us, and overtook us this evening; we still persisted in a refusal.

The dress of the Ricara men is simply a pair of moccasins and leggings, a flap, and a buffalo robe. Their hair is long and lies loose. Their arms and ears are decorated with trinkets.

The women dress in moccasins, leggings, and a skirt of the skin of the cabre or antelope, long-fringed, and a robe to the fringes and with sleeves, very white, and robes. All were dressed to be without hair in the summer.

Those people make large beads of different colors, out of glass or beads of different colors, very ingeniously.

12th October, Friday 1804. I rose early. After breakfast we joined the Indians who were waiting on the bank for us to come out and go to council. We accordingly joined them and went to the house of the 2nd chief, Lassil, where there were many chiefs and warriors and about 7 bushels of corn, a pair of leggings, a twist of their tobacco, and seeds of 2 kinds of tobacco. We sat some time before the council commenced. This man spoke at some length, declaring his disposition to believe and pursue our counsels, his intention of going to visit his great father, and acknowledging the satisfaction in receiving the presents, etc., raising a doubt as to the safety in passing the nations below, particularly the Sioux. He requested us to take a chief of their nation and make a good pact with the Mandans and nations above. After answering those parts of the 2nd chief's speech which required it, which appeared to give general satisfaction, we went to the village of the 3rd chief, and as usual some ceremony took place before he could speak to us on the great subject. This chief spoke very much in the style and on nearly the same subjects as the other chief who sat by his side, more sincerely and pleasantly. He presented us with about 10 bushels of corn, some beans and squashes, all of which we accepted with much pleasure. After we had answered his speech and given them some account of the magnitude and power of our country, which pleased and astonished them very much, we returned to our boat. The chiefs accompanied us on board. We gave them some sugar, a little salt, and a sun glass, and set 2 on shore, while the third proceeded on with us to the Mandans by name. At 2 o'clock we set out, the inhabitants of the two villages viewing us from the banks. We proceeded on about 9 1/2 miles and camped on the south side at some woods we passed. The evening was clear and pleasant, cooler.

The nation of the Rickerries is about 600 men able to bear arms; a great proportion of them have fusees (muskets). They appear to be peaceful. Their men are tall and proportioned; the women small and industrious, raising great quantities of corn, beans, simmins, etc., also tobacco for the men to smoke. They collect all the wood and do the drudgery, as is common among savages.

This nation is made up of 10 different tribes of the Pania (Pawnee), who had formerly been separate, but by commotion and war with their neighbors have come reduced and been compelled to come together for protection. The corruption of the language of those different tribes has so reduced the language that the different villages do not understand all the words of the others. Those people are dirty, kind, poor, and extravagant, possessing national pride. They are not beggarly; they receive what is given with great pleasure. They live in warm houses, large and built in an octagon form, forming a cone at top which is left open for the smoke to pass. Those houses are generally 30 or 40 feet in diameter, covered with earth on poles, willows, and grass to prevent the earth from passing through. Those people express an inclination to be at peace with all nations. The Sioux, who trade the goods which they get from the British traders for their corn, have great influence over the Rickeres, poison their minds, and keep them in perpetual dread.

I saw some of the Chien or Dog Indians (Cheyenne), also a man of a nation under the Court Noir (Black Mountain). This nation is at war with the Crow Indians and have 3 children prisoners.

A curious custom with the Sioux as well as the Reckeres is to give handsome squaws to those whom they wish to show some acknowledgments to. The Sioux we got clear of without taking their squaws; they followed us with squaws for two days. The Rickores we put off during the time we were at the towns, but 2 handsome young squaws were sent by a man to follow us. They came up this evening and persisted in their civilities.

The dress of the men of this nation is simply a pair of moccasins, leggings, a flap in front, and a buffalo robe, with their arms and ears decorated. The women wore moccasins, leggings fringed, and a shirt of goat skins, some with sleeves. This garment is long and generally white and fringed, tied at the waist with a robe, in summer without hair.

2nd Chief Ricaras:

My father, I am glad to see this is a fine day to hear the good counsels and talk good talk. I am glad to see you and that your intentions are to open the road for all. We see that our grandfather has sent you to open the road; we see it. Our grandfather, by sending you, means to take pity on us. Our grandfather has sent you with tobacco to make peace with all nations, we think.

The first nation who has recommended the road to be clear and open—you come here and have directed all nations which you have met to open and clear the road. You come to see the water and roads to clear them as clear as possible.

You just now come to see us, and we wish you to tell our grandfather that we wish the road to be kept clear and open. I expect the chief in the next town will tell you the same—to move on and open the road.

I think when you saw the nations below, they wished you to open the road (or something to that amount). When you passed the Sioux, they told you the same, I expect. We see you here today. We are poor; our women have no strouds and knives to cut their meat. Take pity on us when you return.

You come here and direct us to stay at home and not go to war; we shall do so. We hope you will, when you get to the Mandans, tell them the same and clear the road. No one dare stop you; you go when you please.

Then you tell us to go down. We will go and see our grandfather and hear and receive his gifts, and think fully that our nation will be covered after our return. Our people will look for us with the same impatience that our grandfather looks for your return, to give him.

If I am going to see my grandfather, many bad nations are on the road; I am not afraid to die for the good of my people. (All cried around him.)

The chief by me will go to the Mandans and hear what they will say. (We agreed.)

The very moment we set out to go down, we will send out my brother to bring all the nation into the open prairie to see me depart on this great mission to see my great father.

Our people hunting shall be glad to hear of your being here, and they will all come to see; as you cannot stay, they must wait for your return to see you. We are poor; take pity on our wants.

The road is for you all to go on. Who do you think will injure a white man when they come to exchange for our robes and beaver?

After you set out, many nations in the open plains may come to make war against us. We wish you to stop their guns and prevent it if possible. Finished.

3rd Chief of Ricares:

My fathers, I will see the Indians below and see if they have the heart as they tell you.

The nation below is the Mahas and Ottos, but one nation (the Sioux) has not a good heart.

I always look at the 1st chief and the 2nd; when they go, I will also follow their example and go on also.

You see those 2 men, they are chiefs; when I go they will take care; they believe your words.

Maybe we will not tell the truth; as to the child, perhaps they will not wish to go.

My children, the old women and men—when I return I can then give them some a knife, some powder, and others ball, etc. What is the matter if we were to go for nothing? My great chief wishes to go; I wish to go also.

When I go to see my grandfather, I wish to return quickly for fear of my people being uneasy.

My children are small and perhaps will be uneasy when I may be safe.

I must go; I also wish to go; perhaps I may, when I return, make my people glad.

I will stay at home and not go to war, even if my people are struck.

We will believe your word, but I fear the Indians above will not believe your word.

I will think that half of the men who will return will stay in this village, half below in the other villages.

What did the Sioux tell you? (We informed them.)