Great Falls Portage — Joseph Whitehouse: June 25, 1805

a cloudy morning. we Set out with the 2 truck waggons,
and returned back to the lower camp for another load. took
up 2 canoes on the high plains. the day proved pleasant and
warm the party much fatigued halling the truck waggons &
the baggage. Saw large gangs of buffalow and antelopes
to day. the evening clear and pleasant. we got our loads
ready to Start from this for the upper Camp. mended our
mockasons &c. below the falls the plains are inferior in point
of Soil to those below, more Stones on the Sides of the hills,
Grass but a fiew inches high and but a fiew flowers in the
plains. Great quantities of choke cherries, goose berrys, red &
yallow berrys & red and purple currents on the Edges of the
water. we catch great quantities of Trout, and a kind of a
mullet flat backs &c. a Soft fish resembling a Shad, and fiew
cat fish 8c. Serg’ pryor. Sick. the party all of us amused
ourselves with dancing untill 10 oC. all in cheerfulness and
good humor. weall harnised up our back loads of the baggage
to make an eairly Steart in the morning.
Sune 26% Wednesday 1805.
Some rain last night. this morning verry cloudy. the .
party Set out eairly with our loads to the canoes consisting of
pearched meal pork powder lead axes tools Bisquit and port-
able Soup &c. we proceeded on with the 2 canoes & Some
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LEWIS AND CLARK JOURNALS _ [June 27
baggage. verry hot Sun beat down on us as the day proved
fair. we halted at willow creek and made up a fiew dumplings
& broiled a little fat buffalow meat & we Saw great numbers
of buffalow on the plains in every direction. the plain[s]
appear to be black with them. Some antelope and Deer. the
wolves pleanty. I took sick this evening I expect by drinking
too much water when I was hot. I got bled &c.
Sune 27% Thursday 1805.
a fair warm morning. I feel Some better but not able to go
back to the lower Camp So I remained with Cap‘ Lewis.
Serg’ Ordway and three men went down by the River to See
the falls and Spring &c about 4 oClock we had a hard
Shower of rain which made the portage so Slipperry we did
not expect they would Start from the lower Camp tomorrow
with a load of baggage as usal.
Sune 28% Friday 1805.
a fair morning the wind from the South. I remained with
Cap! Lewis assisting with the Iron boat &c.
June 29% Saturday 1805.
a little rain verry eairly this morning. after clear and
pleasant. in the afternoon their arose a storm of hard wind
and rain and amazeing large hail at our Camp we measured &
weighed Some of them, and Cap! Lewis made a bowl of Ice
punch of one of them they were 7 Inches in Surcumference
and weighed 3 ounc[e]s. as luck would have it we were all
That Stay at this camp Safe in a Shelter but we feel concerned
about the men on the road.
Fune 30% Sunday 1805.
a fair morning. I remained Still at the upper Camp assist-
ing with the Iron boat Sowing Skins together &c. &c. the
hunters kill Some buffalow and 3 white bear. one verry
large the fore feet of which measured g inches across, & the
head t[w]o feet 1134 Inches long and 7 Inches wide a bear
[came] nearly catching Joseph Fields chased him in to the
water bear about the Camp everry night, and Seen on the
Islands in the day time. we look for Cap! Clark & party.
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1805] WHITEHOUSE’S JOURNAL
; Fuly 1% Monday 1805.
pleasant and warm. we continued on with the Iron boat as
usal. about 3 oClock Cap! Clark and party arived with the
last canoe and the most of the baggage. the remainder left only
out at the 6 mile Stake. they informed us that the wet
weather was what detained them and that they were out in
the hail Storm but as luck would have it, the hail was not So
big as they were here. Cap‘ Clark was at the falls at the time
had hunted a Shelter in a deep creek with out water when he
went in but before the Shower was over the creek rose So fast
that he and 3 more who were with him had Scarsely time to
git out before the water was ten feet deep. Cap‘ Clark lost
the large Compass a fusiee pouch & horn powder & ball, and
Some cloaths &c. the party who were halling Some of them
like to have lost their lives, being nearly naked and the most
of them without any hats on their heads or anything to cover
them and .under went as much as any men could and live
through it.
Fuly 2%2 Tuesday-1805.
Some rain at day light this morning after which a fair morn-
ing. the men who came in yesterday Set out with the truck
waggons to go back to the 6 mile Stake for the Boxes and
kegs which was left yesterday &c. we that Stayed at Camp
Set at gitting timber &c. for the Iron boat. Musquetoes verry
troublesome to day. about 2 oClock the party arived with
the last of the Baggage. they killed 3 buffalow and one
antelope. we put our fire arms in order and about 4 oClock
the 2 Captains and the most of the hunters went over on an
Island to hunt bear they killed one and Saved the Skin and
greece.
Fuly 37% Wednesday 1805.
a clear pleasant morning. Serg! Gass and 2 men Set out to
go down and See the falls & large Spring &c. the men at
[camp] employed puting the leather on the Iron boat &c.
Some burning tar to put on it. we overhalled the Baggage
and found Some mice & killed a large curious rat with hair on
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his tail. we fixed Scaffels to keep the Bags &c from the
ground and from the rats. a light Sprinkling of rain in the
afternoon. George Drewyer Cap: Lewis’ hunter at the upper
Camp killed 2 large handsom otter and three beaver. in the
evening 2 men went out a Short distance from Camp and
killed a fat buffalow. Some men went for [the] meat. Serg!
Gass and the man returned from the falls, had killed Six
buffalow and Saved only the brains and tongues. we got the
leather on the Iron boat, and took it apart. 8 Sep” Sections
(2 men burning a tar kill)
July 42 Thursday 1805.
a clear beautiful morning. the most of the men employed
putting the Sections of the Iron boat together &c. &c. one
of the hunters went on bear Island and killed an Elk anda
beaver. we finished putting the Iron boat together and
turned hir up to dry. towards evening our officers gave the
party the last of the ardent Spirits except a little reserved for
Sickness. we all amused ourselves dancing untill 10 oClock
in the evening, at which time we had a light Shower of rain,
the party all in good Spirits keeping up the 4% of July &c as
Independence.
July 5% Friday 1805.
a clear pleasant morning. 3 men Set out to go down to See
the falls &c. about g oClock 12 of the party with Cap! Clark
wen[t] in the plains after a gang of buffalow Seen on a hill
Some distance off. the Situation of the plain where the gang
of buffalow was [was] Such that we could not git near enofe
without being discovered by them. in attempting it Scared
them all off. then a part of the men went after another gang,
the remainder returned to Camp. towards evening the
hunters all came in had killed 3 buffalow 4 miles back in the
plains. brought in Some meat and Skins. the 3 men re-
turned from the falls, had killed Several buffalow and might
have killed hundreds if they chuse where they were pened in
under high clifts of rocks. they went among them So as
might have reached them with the muzzel of their guns &c.
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1805] WHITEHOUSE’S JOURNAL
July 6% Saturday 1805.
verry hard Showers of rain and hail through the course of
last night. hard Thunder. at day light a hard Shower of
rain and large hail one of the men gethered a Small kittle
full of the hail which kept the most part of the day. the
morning cloudy. 4 men Set out in 2 canoes in order to go
down to the head of the falls to kill buffalow for Skins to
cover our crafts & meat &c. Some men employed finishing
off the Iron boat others dressing Skins &c. the day proved
clear. light Showers in the afternoon. the hunters did not
return this evening.
July 7% Sunday 1805.
a clear pleasant morning. one man caught a beaver last
night. 2 hunters Set out across the river this morning to at-
tempt to kill 1 or 2 Elk for their Skins. we finished off
the Iron boat and put hir up in an open place to dry. the
day warm. I am employed makeing leather cloaths for the
party &c. Some Thunder and a light Shower of rain. about
4 oClock the hunters returned had killed Several buffalow,
one Elk and Several wolves &c. they brought in Some
Skins to cover the crafts with &c. the 2 hunters returned
from across the river had killed 4 Deer and one antelope &c.
Fuly 8% Monday 1805.
a clear pleasant morning. one man went across the river a
hunting. about g oClock A. M. Cap! Clark and all the men
that could be Spared from Camp Set out for to go down to
the falls a hunting. I remained in Camp makeing leather
cloathes &c. the rest of the men at Camp was employed in
makeing coal & tallow and Beese wax mixed and payed over
the leather on the Iron boat &c. in the afternoon the hunters
returned from the falls and plains. had killed Several buffalow,
1 antelope and a yallow fox, also 2 rattle Snakes &c. Cap!
Clark measured the width of the river at the great Spring &
middle falls &c. the hunter returned from over the river and
had killed one buck Deer and a buck antelope or goat kind
&c. Some Thunder and light Sprinkling of rain &c.
If Pie]
July 9% Tuesday 1805.
a beautiful morning. the Island near our Camp is covered
with black birds. the musquetoes verry troublesome. we put
the Iron boat in to the water corked Some of the canoes and
git in readiness to depart from this place. in the afternoon
we loaded the 6 canoes but did not load the Iron boat for She
leaked Some. Soon after we got the canoes loaded there came
up a Storm of wind & Thunder. the waves dashed over in
the canoes So that we had to unload again. our officers con-
clude that the Iron boat will not answer our purpose as we.
cannot git Tar nor pitch to pay the [bottom of] hir over the
hides. the coal Tallow & bease wax would not Stick to the
hides &c. the time being So far Spent they concluded to
burry hir at this place and go about 20 miles up the River and
make 2 canoes which would answer much better. So we Sunk
S‘ Iron boat in the River So that Shee may be taken apart the
better tomorrow. about ro men got ready to go with Cap!
Clark to make the canoes, about 20 m” by water and only about
5 by land from this place.
July 10% Wednesday 1805.
aclear morning. we took the Iron boat out of the water,
and loaded 4 canoes one with baggage & tools for the men at
the upper Camp. we Set off eairly with the canoes for the
upper Camp Cap! Clark Set out at the Same time with ab!
10 men to go up by land to make the 2 canoes. we proceeded
on with the 4 canoes about 8 miles and the wind rose So high
that we we[re] obledged to lay by untill toward evening. the
wind then abated and we went on untill dark. then camped
for the night on N. S. within about 3 miles of the upper
Camp. we killed a large rattle Snake. we passed to day 2 or
3 Islands covered with cotton timber and choke cherrys.
abundance of cherry yallow currents and box elder timber
along the Shores. passed a village of bearking Squerrells &
killed one of them on N. S. the musquetoes & nats are
troublesome at our Camp this evening. high banks of Sand
along the N. Shore.
1805] WHITEHOUSE’S JOURNAL
Fuly 11% 1805 Thursday.
a clear morning, but high wind which obledged us to lay at
our Camp untill late in the afternoon except the baggage canoe
which went on. 2 of the men went up to the Camp and got
Some meat. towards evening the wind abated a little so that
we went on arived at the upper Camp about Sunset and un-
loaded. the hunters had killed 2 fat buffalow and Several
Deer. I walked a Short distance in the plains to day when we
were waiting for the wind to abate, and trod on a verry large
rattle Snake. it bit my leggin on my legg I Shot it. it was
4 feet 2 Inches long, & 5 Inches & a half round. we took
Some fat meat on board and 4 of us Set out with the 8 empty
canoes to return to the lower Camp. we floated apart of the
night got about 8 miles the wind rose so that we halted untill
morning. Cap! Clark had got 2 fine trees cut for 2 canoes and
got them ready to dig out &c. &c.
July 12% Friday 1805.
a clear morning. the wind high from the N. W. we pro-
ceeded on down the river. the wind So high that one canoe
filled the other 2 took in water, but with difficulty we got to
the lower Camp about noon. they while we were gone had
killed 2 buffalow. had also put the Irons of the Iron boat in
the ground and Some other articles, also. we Scaffelled up the
buffalow meat to dry &c. Several men had Set out this morn-
ing for the upper Camp the wind continues verry high all
day.
Fuly 13% Saturday 1805.
clear and calm. we loaded all the canoes eairly and Set out
with all our baggage for the upper Camp. Cap! Lewis a Sick
french man and the Intrepters wife went across by land. we
proceeded on with the canoes ab‘ 5 miles verry well then the
wind rose So high that obledged us to lay too untill towards
evening, when the wind abated and we went on about 7 m*
further and Camped. the Musquitoes verry troublesome untill
g oClock at night.
VOL. vit. —8 [ 113 J
LEWIS AND CLARK JOURNALS | [July 14
Fuly 14% Sunday 1805.
we Set out eairly and proceeded on. the morning clear and
calm. passed Several Islands &c. and arived at the upper
Camp about noon. Cap! Clark & men had got the 2 canoes
ready to put in the water. we unloaded the canoes put one of
the niew canoes in the River about 4 oClock P. M. we had
a Small Shower of rain. verry warm the musquetoes trouble-
some. we put the other niew canoe in the river, and make
ready to leave this place. we have considerable of fat buffalow
meat dryed. the weeds and grass in this bottom is as high as
a mans knees but the grass on the high land is not more than
3 Inches high.
1805] WHITEHOUSE’S JOURNAL
CHAPTER X
FROM THE GREAT FALLS TO THE THREE FORKS
July 15-27, 1805
Fuly 15% Monday 1805.
AINED the greater part of last night. a clear morning,
1 wind high from the N. W. we loaded the 8 canoes.
_ had Some difficulty to git all the baggage on board.
about 10 oClock A. M. we Set out and proceeded on verry
well. passed a large Creek or Small River on S. S. passed
Several Islands covered with cotton timber willow & Grass
fine bottoms on each Side. beaver pleanty. the current verry
gentle Since we came above the falls, can Scarsely desern it
move as yet. we or Cap: Lewis & Clark & a hunter who
walked on Shore to day killed 2 Elk and 2 Deer & one otter.
we came about 26 miles by water to day, and Camped on the
N. Side.
Fuly 16% Tuesday 1805.
a clear pleasant morning. Serg! Ordway went about 4 miles
back for an axe which [he] forgot last evening. we proceeded
on verry well the current begin to git Swifter. we passed a
high round hill a Short distance from the river which at a
distance look like a large fortifycation So we named it Fort
Mountain, lying on N. S. of the river. we passed a large
creek on S. Side 100 y* wide. passed Several Is!? covered
with Timber also bottoms on each Side covered with cotton
Timber, &c. Saw fresh Indian Sign. large Camps back of
Several bottoms. the hunters killed 2 buffalow. we Saw verry
large gangs in the plains under the rockey mountan which we
are now approaching. we Came 20 Miles and Camped at the
Entrence of the rockey mountains.
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LEWIS AND CLARK JOURNALS | [july 17
July 17° Wednesday 1805.
Cap! Lewis & 2 men Stayed out all night who went up the
river yest? aclear morning. we Set out at Sunrise and pro-
ceeded on. about 4 miles came to a hard rapid, % a mile
where the mountains make close to the river on each Side.
Cap! Lewis joined us. by the assistance of the towing line and
double manning the canoes we took them all up Safe. passed
a large Spring which run from under the Mountain on S. S.
proceeded on passed verry high Steep rocks & pricipices. these
rocky Mountains are broken & verry uneven & appear to be
nearly a Solid rock. Some parts of them thinly covered with
P.[itch] pine and balsom fer timber &c. Some of these knobs
we allow to be 700 feet high and a Solid rock. Mountain Sheep
on the top of them though they are allmost perpenticular. fine
Springs in these mountains, but a desert part of the Country.
narrow bottoms on the points. Some willow and high grass
with a wide leaf. the current verry rapid, and river crooked,
and only about 100 yards wide. we Came 11 miles this day
and Camped on the N. Side in a bottom a little cotton timber
on it. the musquetoes troublesome. we got pleanty of yallow
currents this day.
July 18% Thursday 1805.
a clear pleasant morning. we Saw Some Mountain Sheep
on a verry high precipice which is nearly Steep from the river
up 2 or 3 100 feet. we Set out about Sun rise and proceded
on about 3 miles passed the mouth of a River about 100 y“
wide at the mouth it came in on the N. Side and run Strong. ~
one mile further up Cap! Clark killed an Elk Saw a nomber
more. we Saw a flock of Mountain Rams on the Side of the
Mountain on S. Side with verry large horns. Cap! Clark kill?
one. we went near them before they run from us. the moun-
tains appear not So high ahead, but another range seen a long
distance above which appear much higher than any we See in
this range and Some we allow to be 700 feet high the pitch
& yallow pine continues Scatering along these mountains &c.
Cap: Clark & his Servant york & 2 other men Set out to go
up one or two days travel by land. we proceded on with the
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1805] WHITEHOUSE’S JOURNAL
canoes verry well. towards evening we passed a Small River
on N, S. about 60 y* wide named [blank space in MS.] River.
the mountains continue but not So high as yesterday. we
came 19% miles and Camped in a narrow bottom on the S.
Side. considerable of flax in this bottom half seded. we took
on board Some deer meat & a Skin which Cap! Clark killed.
Fuly 19% Friday 1805.
a clear pleasant morning. we Set out as usal, and pro-
ceeded on. Cap! Lewis and one hunter walked on Shore
Shortly killed a large goat or antelope. we took on board
the Skin and Some of the meat. the current verry Swift. the
mountains verry high & covered with pine & bolsom fir trees
many places verry thick. we went on untill about 11 oClock
without breakfast expecting to overtake Cap! Lewis as usal.
the cause we know knot with[out] Some thing has happened.
one of the men killed an otter with his hooked pole. they are
verry pleanty. some beaver also in these narrow bottoms.
proceeded on. Shortly found Capt Lewis. passed the mouth
of a Small river on the S. Side. in the afternoon we passed a
verry high part of the mountain & Steep up from the River on
each Side about 600 feet from the Surface of the water, which we
name the gates of the rockey mountains. Several fine Springs
come out under these clifs of light couloured rocks. about one
oClock their came Such a Thunder Shower which lasted 1
hour. Saw pine Spruce & ceeder bolsom fer also on the top
& vallies of St‘ Mountains. the bottoms on the points verry
narrow along the Shores. we Came 19 miles this day through
verry rapid water and Camped on the South Side. a light
Sprinkling of rain this evening.
_ Saturday 20% Fuly 1805.
a clear morning. we Set out as usal and proceeded on. at
8 oClock we came to a lower part of the mountains. we found
along the Shores a great quantity of currents of all kinds yallow
red & black they are now ripe, and we eat pleanty of them
the black kind are the most pallatiable. one of the men killed
[ mz |
one Elk, and found the Skin of another which Cap! Clark had
killed and left a note letting us know that he would only go
over the range of these mountains and wait our arival. the
current verry rapid. passed a Small creek on the South Side.
about 2 oClock P. M. we got through this range of mountains.
Saw an other range a head. Saw asmoak in the valley between
Some level plains in the valley. Some timber Scatering along
the River. proceeded on Saw a great nomber of otter along
the Shores. passed a plain on the N. S. in the valley between
2 mountains. this valley is uneaven & hilley. we Came 15
miles to day and Camped at a Spring on the South Side of the
River. the prickley pears verry thick &c.