Missouri River, first view of Rocky Mountains — Patrick Gass: May 27, 1805
After traveling roughly 2,300 miles up the Missouri, Gass pauses to summarize the country passed through: rich, timbered land from the Missouri's mouth to the Platte; decent second-rate, mostly treeless prairie land for 1,500 miles beyond; and now a barren, desolate region with no end in sight. He describes the vast plains, wildlife, river islands, and Indian and buffalo paths. The party set out at 8 a.m. against a headwind, struggled through difficult water amid bleak barren mountains, made thirteen miles, and camped in a small bottom with just enough driftwood for cooking.
sents little to our view, but scenes of barrenness and desola-
tion; and see no encouraging prospects that it will terminate.
Having proceeded (by the course of this river) about two
thousand three hundred miles, it may therefore not be im-
proper to make two or three general observations respecting
the country we have passed.
the real sheep in its wild and savage state. Perhaps it may be found to be exactly
the same: of which we find the following description.
“The Mufflon, or Musmon, though covered with hair bears a stronger similitude
to the Ram than to any other animal; like the Ram it has the eyes placed near the
horns ; and its ears are shorter than those of the goat: it also resembles the Ram in its
horns, and in all the particular contours of its form. The horns also are alike ; they
are of a white or yellow colour; they have three sides as in the Ram, and bend back-
wards in the same manner behind the ears. ‘The muzzle and inside of the ears are
of a whitish colour tinctured with yellow ; the other parts of the face are of a brownish
grey. The general colour of the hair over the body is of a brown, approaching to
that of the red deer. he inside of the thighs and belly are of a white tinctured with
yellow. The form upon the whole seems more made for agility and strength than that
of the common sheep ; and the MufHion is actually found to live in a savage state, and
maintain itself either by force or swiftness against all the animals that live by rapine.
Such is its extreme speed that many have been inclined rather to rank it among the
deer kind, than the sheep. But in this they are deceived, as the Musmon has a mark
that entirely distinguishes it from that species, being known never to shed its horns.
In some these are seen to grow to a surprising size: many of them measuring, in their
convolutions, above two ells long.’’ Galdsmith.
go GASS’S JOURNAL OF THE
From the mouth of the Missouri to that of the river Platte,
a distance of more than six hundred miles, the land is gener-
ally of a good quality, with a sufficient quantity of timber; in
many places very rich, and the country pleasant and beautiful.
From the confluence of the river Platte with the Missouri
to the Sterile desert we lately entered, a distance of upwards
of fifteen hundred miles the soil is less rich, and except in the
bottoms, the land of an inferior quality; but may in general be
called good second rate land. The country is rather hilly than
level, though not mountainous, rocky or stony. The hills in
their unsheltered state, are much exposed to be washed by
heavy rains. This kind of country and soil which has fallen
under our observation in our progress up the Missouri, ex-
tends it is understood, to a great distance on both sides of the
river. Along the Missouri and the waters which flow into it,
cotton wood and willows are frequent in the bottoms and
islands; but the upland is almost entirely without timber, and
consists of large prairies or plains the boundaries of which the
eye cannot reach. The grass is generally short on these im-
mense natural pastures, which in the proper seasons are deco-
rated with blossoms and flowers of various colours. The
views from the hills are interesting and grand. Wide extended
plains with their hills and vales, stretching away in lessening
wavy ridges, until by their distance they fade from the sight;
large rivers and streams in their rapid course, winding in va-
rious meanders; groves of cotton wood and willow along the
waters intersecting the landscapes in different directions, divid-
ing them into various forms, at length appearing like dark
LEWIS AND CLARK EXPEDITION gI
clouds and sinking in the horizon; these enlivened with the
buffaloe, elk, deer, and other animals which in vast numbers
feed upon the plains or pursue their prey, are the prominent
objects, which compose the extensive prospects presented to
the view and strike the attention of the beholder.
The islands in the Missouri are of various sizes ; in general
not large and during high water mostly overflowed.
There are Indian paths along the Missouri and some in
other parts of the country. Those along that river do not
generally follow its windings but cut off points of land and
pursue a direct course. There are also roads and paths made
by the buffaloe and other animals; some of the buffaloe roads
are at least ten feet wide. We did not embark this morning
until 8 o’clock. The day was fine, but the wind ahead. We
had difficult water, and passed through the most dismal coun-
try I ever beheld; nothing but barren mountains on both
sides of the river, as far as our view could extend. The bed
of the river is rocky, and also the banks and hills in some
places; but these are chiefly of earth. We went thirteen miles
and encamped in a bottom, just large enough for the pur-
pose, and made out to get enough of drift wood to cook
with.
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presents little to our view but scenes of barrenness and desolation; and we see no encouraging prospects that it will end. Having proceeded (by the course of this river) about two thousand three hundred miles, it may therefore not be improper to make two or three general observations respecting the country we have passed.
[The following note appears here regarding the bighorn sheep, considered as the real sheep in its wild and savage state. Perhaps it may be found to be exactly the same, of which we find the following description:]
"The Mufflon, or Musmon, though covered with hair, bears a stronger resemblance to the Ram than to any other animal. Like the Ram, it has the eyes placed near the horns, and its ears are shorter than those of the goat. It also resembles the Ram in its horns and in all the particular contours of its form. The horns are also alike; they are of a white or yellow color; they have three sides as in the Ram, and bend backwards in the same manner behind the ears. The muzzle and inside of the ears are of a whitish color tinged with yellow; the other parts of the face are of a brownish grey. The general color of the hair over the body is brown, approaching that of the red deer. The inside of the thighs and belly are white tinged with yellow. The form on the whole seems made more for agility and strength than that of the common sheep; and the Mufflon is actually found to live in a savage state, maintaining itself either by force or swiftness against all the animals that live by predation. Such is its extreme speed that many have been inclined to rank it among the deer kind rather than the sheep. But in this they are deceived, as the Musmon has a mark that entirely distinguishes it from that species, being known never to shed its horns. In some, these are seen to grow to a surprising size, many of them measuring, in their convolutions, above two ells long." — Goldsmith.
From the mouth of the Missouri to that of the river Platte, a distance of more than six hundred miles, the land is generally of good quality, with a sufficient quantity of timber; in many places very rich, and the country pleasant and beautiful.
From the confluence of the river Platte with the Missouri to the sterile desert we lately entered, a distance of upwards of fifteen hundred miles, the soil is less rich, and except in the bottoms, the land is of an inferior quality; but it may in general be called good second-rate land. The country is rather hilly than level, though not mountainous, rocky, or stony. The hills, in their unsheltered state, are much exposed to being washed by heavy rains. This kind of country and soil, which has fallen under our observation in our progress up the Missouri, extends, it is understood, to a great distance on both sides of the river. Along the Missouri and the waters which flow into it, cottonwood and willows are frequent in the bottoms and islands; but the upland is almost entirely without timber, and consists of large prairies or plains, the boundaries of which the eye cannot reach. The grass is generally short on these immense natural pastures, which in the proper seasons are decorated with blossoms and flowers of various colors. The views from the hills are interesting and grand. Wide extended plains with their hills and valleys, stretching away in lessening wavy ridges until by their distance they fade from sight; large rivers and streams in their rapid course, winding in various meanders; groves of cottonwood and willow along the waters, intersecting the landscapes in different directions, dividing them into various forms, at length appearing like dark clouds and sinking in the horizon; these enlivened with the buffalo, elk, deer, and other animals, which in vast numbers feed upon the plains or pursue their prey, are the prominent objects which compose the extensive prospects presented to the view and strike the attention of the beholder.
The islands in the Missouri are of various sizes; in general not large, and during high water mostly overflowed.
There are Indian paths along the Missouri and some in other parts of the country. Those along that river do not generally follow its windings but cut off points of land and pursue a direct course. There are also roads and paths made by the buffalo and other animals; some of the buffalo roads are at least ten feet wide. We did not embark this morning until 8 o'clock. The day was fine, but the wind was ahead. We had difficult water, and passed through the most dismal country I ever beheld; nothing but barren mountains on both sides of the river, as far as our view could extend. The bed of the river is rocky, as are the banks and hills in some places; but these are chiefly of earth. We went thirteen miles and camped in a bottom just large enough for the purpose, and managed to get enough driftwood to cook with.
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