Clark: April 1, 1806
At their Columbia River camp, the captains sent Sergeant Pryor up Quicksand River to scout it and dispatched hunting parties on both sides of the river. Native visitors confirmed that Quicksand River heads at Mount Hood, suggesting another unseen river must drain the southern valley. Pryor returned reporting the river was shallow, sandy, and not navigable. Indians traveling downstream warned of severe food shortages above, with salmon not expected until early May. Fearing for their subsistence and their horses left with the Chopunnish, the captains decided to push on quickly rather than wait for the salmon run. Hunters killed four elk and two deer. Cloudy weather prevented astronomical observations.
Tuesday April 1st 1806 This morning early we dispatched Sergt. Pryor, with
two men in a Small canoe up quick sand river with orders to proceed as far
as he Could and return this evening. we also Sent a party of three hunters
over the river to hunt a large bottom of woodland and prarie above the
enterance of Q. Sand River; the ballance of the hunters we Sent out in
different directions on this Side of the Columbia, and employed those
about Camp in makeing a rope of Elk Skin.
The information given by the indians to us last night respecting quick
Sand river was corrobarated by Sundery other indians who visited us in the
Course of this day. we were now convinced that if there information be
just; that Some Considerable river which flowed into the Columbia on it’s
South Side below us which we have not yet Seen, as the extensive vally on
that Side of the river lying between the mountanious Country of the Coast,
and the western mountains must be watered by Some Stream, which we had
heretofore Supposed was the quick Sand river. but if it be a fact that
Quick Sand river heads in Mount Hood it must leave the vally within a fiew
miles of it’s enterance, and runs nearly parrilal with the Columbia River
upwards. we indeavered to assertained by what Stream the South portion of
the Columbian Vally was watered, but could obtain no Satisfactory
information of the waters on this head. they inform us that the quick Sand
river is not naviagable any distance in consequence of falls and rapids;
and that no nation inhabit it. Sergt. Pryor returned in the evening and
reported that he had assended the river Six Miles; that above the point
which it divides itself into two Chanels, it is about 300 yards wide tho
the Chanel is not more than 50 yards, and only 6 feet deep. the other part
of the river from 2 to 4 inches water, the bead of this river is formed
entirely of quick Sand; its banks are low and at present overflown. the
water is turbed and current rapid.The following are the Courses
taken by Sergt. Pryor.- “S. 10° W. 1 mile to a point on the Lard. Side
passing a large island on Stard Side. S 24° E. 2 m. to the head of the
island near the Lard Shore. S 33° E 4 m. to a Stard. point passing Several
islands on the Lard Side and a Creek 50 yards wide on the Stard. Side at
11/2 miles. the river from hence upwards bend to the East. a fall of water
heard at no great distance up this river.” Several diffirent tribes of
indians inform us that it heads at Mount Hood which is in view.
We were visited by Several Canoes of the nativs in the Course of this day;
most of whome were decending the river with their womin and children. they
inform us that they reside at the great rapids and that their relations at
that place were much Streightened for the want of food; that they had
consumed their winter Store of dryed fish and those of the present Season
had not yet arived. I could not lern whether they took Sturgion but
prosume if they do it is in but Small quantities as they complain much of
the Scercity of food among them, they informed us that the nativs above
them were in the Same Situation, and that they did not expect the Salmon
to arrive untill the full of the next moon which happens on the 2nd of
May. we did not doubt the veracity of those people who Seamed to be on
their way with their families and effects in serch of Subsistence which
they find it easy to precure in this fertile Vally-. This information givs
us much uneasiness with respect to our future means of Subsistence, above
the falls, on through the Plains from thence to the Chopunnish there are
no Deer Antilopes or Elk on which we could depend for Subsistence; their
horses are very poor most probably at this Season, and if they have no
fish their dogs must be in the Same Situation. under these circumstances
there Seams to be a gloomey prospect for Subsistence on any terms; we
therefore took it into Serious Consideration what measure we were to
pursue on this Occasion; it was at once deemed inexpedient to waite the
arival of the Salmon as that would detain us So long a portion of the
Season that it is probable we Should not reach the U States before the ice
would close the Missouri; or at all events would hazard our horses which
we left in charge of the Chopunnish who informed us that they intended
passing the Rocky Mountains to the Missouri as early as the Season would
permit them which is about the first of May. Should these people leave
their Situation near Kooskooske before our arival we may probably find
much dificulty in recovering our horses; without which there will be but
little possibility of repassing the Mountains; we are therefore determined
to lose as little time as possible in getting to the Cho punnish Village.
at 3 P.M. the hunters who were Sent over the river returned, haveing
Killed 4 Elk and 2 Deer; the Elk were in good order but the deer extreemly
poor. they informed us that game is very plenty in that quarter. the
hunters on this Side of the river also returned but had killed nothing;
they Saw a fiew Elk and Deer. there were also much Sign of the black bear
Seen on the other Side of the river. we Sent a party to bring in the flesh
of the Elk and Deer that were killed. they did not return this evening. We
purchased a Canoe from an Indian today for Six fathoms of white wampom; he
Seemed Satisfied with his bargin and departed in another Canoe but Shortly
after returned and canseled the bargain, took his canoe and returned the
beeds. this is frequently the case in their method of tradeing and is
deemed fair by them. The last evening and this morning were So cloudy that
we could neither obtain any Lunar observations nor equal altitudes
Read this entry in modern English AI-translated
Tuesday, April 1st, 1806. Early this morning we dispatched Sergt. Pryor (Sgt. Pryor) with two men in a small canoe up Quick Sand River with orders to proceed as far as he could and return this evening. We also sent a party of three hunters over the river to hunt a large bottom of woodland and prairie above the entrance of Quick Sand River; the rest of the hunters we sent out in different directions on this side of the Columbia, and employed those about camp in making a rope of elk skin.
The information given to us by the Indians last night about Quick Sand River was confirmed by several other Indians who visited us during the day. We were now convinced that, if their information was correct, some considerable river that flowed into the Columbia on its south side below us, which we have not yet seen, must water the extensive valley on that side of the river lying between the mountainous country of the coast and the western mountains. We had previously supposed this stream was Quick Sand River. But if it is true that Quick Sand River has its head at Mount Hood, it must leave the valley within a few miles of its entrance, and run nearly parallel with the Columbia River upwards. We tried to determine by what stream the south portion of the Columbian Valley was watered, but could obtain no satisfactory information about the waters on this matter. They inform us that Quick Sand River is not navigable for any distance because of falls and rapids, and that no nation inhabits it. Sergt. Pryor returned in the evening and reported that he had ascended the river six miles; that above the point where it divides itself into two channels, it is about 300 yards wide, though the channel is not more than 50 yards and only 6 feet deep. The other part of the river has from 2 to 4 inches of water. The bed of this river is formed entirely of quicksand; its banks are low and at present overflowed. The water is turbid and the current rapid.
The following are the courses taken by Sergt. Pryor: "S. 10° W. 1 mile to a point on the larboard side, passing a large island on starboard side. S. 24° E. 2 miles to the head of the island near the larboard shore. S. 33° E. 4 miles to a starboard point, passing several islands on the larboard side and a creek 50 yards wide on the starboard side at 1 1/2 miles. The river from here upward bends to the east. A fall of water heard at no great distance up this river." Several different tribes of Indians inform us that it heads at Mount Hood, which is in view.
We were visited by several canoes of the natives during the day; most of them were descending the river with their women and children. They inform us that they reside at the Great Rapids, and that their relations at that place were much constrained for want of food; that they had consumed their winter store of dried fish, and those of the present season had not yet arrived. I could not learn whether they took sturgeon, but I presume that if they do, it is only in small quantities, as they complain much of the scarcity of food among them. They informed us that the natives above them were in the same situation, and that they did not expect the salmon to arrive until the full of the next moon, which happens on the 2nd of May. We did not doubt the truthfulness of these people, who seemed to be on their way with their families and belongings in search of subsistence, which they find easy to procure in this fertile valley. This information gives us much uneasiness about our future means of subsistence. Above the falls, on through the plains, and from there to the Chopunnish, there are no deer, antelope, or elk on which we could depend for subsistence; their horses are very poor, most probably at this season, and if they have no fish, their dogs must be in the same situation. Under these circumstances, there seems to be a gloomy prospect for subsistence on any terms. We therefore took into serious consideration what measure we were to pursue on this occasion. It was at once deemed inexpedient to wait for the arrival of the salmon, as that would detain us so long a portion of the season that it is probable we should not reach the United States before the ice would close the Missouri; or at the very least, would risk our horses, which we left in the charge of the Chopunnish. They informed us they intended to cross the Rocky Mountains to the Missouri as early as the season would permit, which is about the first of May. Should these people leave their location near the Kooskooske before our arrival, we may probably find much difficulty in recovering our horses, without which there will be little possibility of recrossing the mountains. We are therefore determined to lose as little time as possible in getting to the Chopunnish village.
At 3 P.M. the hunters who were sent over the river returned, having killed 4 elk and 2 deer; the elk were in good condition but the deer extremely poor. They informed us that game is very plentiful in that area. The hunters on this side of the river also returned but had killed nothing; they saw a few elk and deer. There were also many signs of the black bear seen on the other side of the river. We sent a party to bring in the flesh of the elk and deer that were killed. They did not return this evening. We purchased a canoe from an Indian today for six fathoms of white wampum; he seemed satisfied with his bargain and departed in another canoe, but shortly afterward returned and canceled the bargain, took his canoe, and returned the beads. This is frequently the case in their method of trading and is deemed fair by them. Last evening and this morning were so cloudy that we could not obtain any lunar observations or equal altitudes.
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